Replacement Seat Options and Mounting Ideas for 80-Series (1 Viewer)
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Rich, Many thanks for this post. I need more legroom, How do the Procar seats compare to stock leather in this regard? Many thanks again. -Ted
I've decided on the Recaro Expert for the driver's side sitting on Wedge brackets. It's not going to be cheap but my back is worth it.
Went with a Kia soul seat on a Wedge bracket earlier this year, it worked great at first but now i'm having back problems again. Im missing not having lumbar support.
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Thanks for sharing NC LX.
Questions:
1) Did you have to create mating rails or do any fabrication? Or just drill the Wedge to match the Kia seat bolt pattern?
2) Given a choice between Wedge and Planted brackets, what drove your decision making?
As it's gonna be a lean quarter until the taxman gets his extortion, I have plenty of time to plan the new seat project out.
B
Questions:
1) Did you have to create mating rails or do any fabrication? Or just drill the Wedge to match the Kia seat bolt pattern?
2) Given a choice between Wedge and Planted brackets, what drove your decision making?
As it's gonna be a lean quarter until the taxman gets his extortion, I have plenty of time to plan the new seat project out.
B
1) Short answer is no. To make the Kia Seat work I had to drill the Rivets out for the Kia seat slider. The Kia seat frame had enough holes that it bolted to the wedge slider. After looking at everything, I could saved $$$$ and used the kia slider and bolted it to the wedge bracket. Wedge just uses a universal double locking slider that they charge to much for IMO.
The Kia seat rails were approx the same width as a Recaro seat. The Kia seat was chosen because it was simple, cheap($52 a pick and pull) and the car was pretty new so the foam wasn't broke down like the cruiser seat foam.
2) The plan was to use a Bracket that I could bolt both the Kia seat too and save for a nice set of Recaro's. Wedge makes a bracket the is for Recaro's. With my future plans to upgrade seats this is why I chose Wedge.
I did everything to my seats to make them better. I really didnt want to remove the OEM seats. I wanted to keep original. A mud member in California found a set of nos recaros. After swapping a few messages, I realized we were having the same problems. He used the Wedge bracket and talked highly about how much better the Recaros were. He was my inspiration to swap. I couldn't find any nos Recaro's so thats why I went with the Kia seat as a temp solution. Initially the Kia seat was great but I can tell they aren't supporting me in areas I need now.
Entirely logical rationale. I appreciate the answers. I'm still leaning toward the Planted Brackets and the Scheel-Mann seats. My 94's foam is beyond hope and the leather's in tatters. And frankly, the LC seats are really ho-hum even at their finest.
I haven't heard of them. I need to check them out.
Scheel Mann seats discussed here: Do you want more leg room?
I have a 97 LX450 that came with Corbeau seats/brackets installed. Is there any way to "fool" the airbag light on the dash so it doesn't come on? I imagine the stock seats were equipped with airbags, so a harness/plug may have been discarded when the previous owner removed the stock seats. thanks
I think your airbag light is unrelated to your seats. No 80s/LXs came with seat airbags, just the 2 front wheel and dash bags.
Thanks for the clarification! I guess I should have Googled this, but the seller told me it was from the seats. I believe he also replaced the steering wheel, so that might be the issue.
How has everybody with aftermarket seats in their FZJ80 wired up the factory seatbelt wiring?
I just bought a set of Corbeau "Sport" seats with Corbeau brackets. The seats have heaters and the hand pump lumbar installed. I'm trying to figure out how to get the stock seatbelt warning light to work by connecting the pigtail at the belt end to the factory plug under the seat. The problem is the plug coming up from the carpet is a 6-pin connector and the seatbelt is (I believe) a 2-pin connector.
I just bought a set of Corbeau "Sport" seats with Corbeau brackets. The seats have heaters and the hand pump lumbar installed. I'm trying to figure out how to get the stock seatbelt warning light to work by connecting the pigtail at the belt end to the factory plug under the seat. The problem is the plug coming up from the carpet is a 6-pin connector and the seatbelt is (I believe) a 2-pin connector.
Did you have to make any modifications or does it bolt directly in?
MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Here is what I would love to see highlighted in this thread moving forward, or added into the other seat swap threads;
can the donor seat sliders simply be unbolted or does one need to cut/drill rivets?
Once the donor rails are off of the seat, will the seat mount flat onto a (wedge or planted or other) bracket?
Better still, can the donor seat and its hardware simply be bolted to an existing off the shelf bracket?
I'm sitting on a pair of cloth manual buckets from a '97-up Honda Prelude that I like, but the rails are vastly different.
It looks like a "simple" piece of "L" steel could get me to where the Honda rails would bolt into the 80 series mount points with maybe just some thick steel bar stock spacers. (only grinder and drill needed).
My issues: (lacking metal knowledge and any welding equipment) Which off the shelf "L" steel would be the proper grade for a seat part?
So, long story short; we need a "no welding required" budget seat swap thread.
can the donor seat sliders simply be unbolted or does one need to cut/drill rivets?
Once the donor rails are off of the seat, will the seat mount flat onto a (wedge or planted or other) bracket?
Better still, can the donor seat and its hardware simply be bolted to an existing off the shelf bracket?
I'm sitting on a pair of cloth manual buckets from a '97-up Honda Prelude that I like, but the rails are vastly different.
It looks like a "simple" piece of "L" steel could get me to where the Honda rails would bolt into the 80 series mount points with maybe just some thick steel bar stock spacers. (only grinder and drill needed).
My issues: (lacking metal knowledge and any welding equipment) Which off the shelf "L" steel would be the proper grade for a seat part?
So, long story short; we need a "no welding required" budget seat swap thread.
I know this is an old thread, but does anyone know of mods for us tall guys for an 80 series?
Can always find a set of seat extension brackets. Wits end used to sell them but not sure whats up there now.
@landtank extension brackets?
Also, search the seat swap thread if swapping seats is an option for you.
I've altered seat frames and brackets in many cars over the years. (6'6" and big boned here)
If you have some fab skills you can usually get seat based lower, and further back.
Three or four things I try to do if I'm altering seats is
- extend the seat base. (Support under thighs makes a big difference on longer drives so you're not perched on the bones of your ass)
- lower the seat base ( helps keep the back upright)
- extend the height of the seat back, or raise the mounting point of the seat back. (Lumbar and shoulder support in the right spot helps. Most standard seats push shoulders forward, coz the top of the seat is behind shoulder blades, not neck.)
- alter brackets so seat base is further back.
All of this is a compromise between comfort, ergonomic placement/reach to controls, physical space available, and depending on fab skills finished appearance of seats.
I put Audi S4 seats in my current 80.
With brackets fabbed to suit, the seat itself achieves almost all of these points. Lots of adjustment, including extendible seat base for leg support.
Thread 'COMPILED - 80 Series Seat Swap Thread' COMPILED - 80 Series Seat Swap Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiled-80-series-seat-swap-thread.1031353/
Also, search the seat swap thread if swapping seats is an option for you.
I've altered seat frames and brackets in many cars over the years. (6'6" and big boned here)
If you have some fab skills you can usually get seat based lower, and further back.
Three or four things I try to do if I'm altering seats is
- extend the seat base. (Support under thighs makes a big difference on longer drives so you're not perched on the bones of your ass)
- lower the seat base ( helps keep the back upright)
- extend the height of the seat back, or raise the mounting point of the seat back. (Lumbar and shoulder support in the right spot helps. Most standard seats push shoulders forward, coz the top of the seat is behind shoulder blades, not neck.)
- alter brackets so seat base is further back.
All of this is a compromise between comfort, ergonomic placement/reach to controls, physical space available, and depending on fab skills finished appearance of seats.
I put Audi S4 seats in my current 80.
With brackets fabbed to suit, the seat itself achieves almost all of these points. Lots of adjustment, including extendible seat base for leg support.
Thread 'COMPILED - 80 Series Seat Swap Thread' COMPILED - 80 Series Seat Swap Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/compiled-80-series-seat-swap-thread.1031353/
Thank for all of that! My main issue is gas pedal. I have to point my toes up with my knee hitting the shifter to use the gas.
I cut and rewelded all the pedals in my 105 series for me leg room, and a better driving position.
Gained maybe 1" of leg room, maybe slightly more, which doesn't sound a lot, but it made a big difference.
Also changed the pedal shape for more comfort.
Have intended to do the same with my 80, but it's a PITA and fiddly, so it's not happened
