Replacement Lower Links-Beefy

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Not to be nit-picky...well I guess I am: Its the underside of the bolt head that has the locking ridges. And along with the OEM Belleville style lock washer this is what keeps the bolts from loosening under rotating torque. This OEM mounting hardware is a brilliant example of Toyota's 'non-off the shelf' engineering that really proves itself in the real world.

For the record I have had nylock and/or split ring type lock washer system fail (loosen) apart of the rear upper control arm mounting bolts on my rig. However I've never had an issue with the OEM bolt system (as long as you don't tighten/turn the OEM bolt head end and "strip" the index/locking ridges...this is why Toyota recommends replacing the bolt/nut/washer at the same time the control arms are removed/replaced...). ALWAYS tighten/turn from the NUT side ONLY for Toyota 80/100 Series OEM rear UCA/LCA mounting hardware.
 
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My mistake, I was refferencing the hardware on the FJ Cruiser links. They have what I would call a flanged nut (washer/nut combo) that has 4 raised areas where it contacts the link mount.

These are opposite of what you describe in that you turn the bolt and hold the nut stationary while tightening. Standard bolt head with waher.

I have also had lock wahers and nynuts come loose. I have also witnessed Toyota OEM link bolts back out. If you wish to really be safe they can be safety wired and forgotten about if you want to go that far.
 
Just to also confirm, on the lower links the bolt has the locking ridges.

I made sure the bolt sat back in the exact same grooves it made into the mount and then used a little blue loctite on the nut.
 
NCFJ ^^^ Its interesting Toyota changed styles, from ridged bolt head to ridged nut, for the FJC (from the 80 and 100-Series platform's style of rear UCA & LCA mounting hardware).

Thanks,

Dan
 
I just grabbed one out of the shop to make sure I was not losing it, ya never know.

Yup. the FJC bolt has the ridges on the flanged nut.

Of course now I want to know why they changed.
 
^^^ Really: Me too! Because, normally, you tighten from the nut head not the bolt head side...

Is there frame channel/muffler/??? interference to these bolts/nuts on the FJC that would make tightening from the bolt head side a requirement on this platform?
 
spressomon said:
^^^ Really: Me too! Because, normally, you tighten from the nut head not the bolt head side...

Is there frame channel/muffler/??? interference to these bolts/nuts on the FJC that would make tightening from the bolt head side a requirement on this platform?
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No, not really on the FJ. I don't remember having any trouble.

The stock muffler on the 100 series makes accessing the nut on the front mount PS hard to get to.
 
Right-O: You can just barely get a 24mm regular socket on that location's nut!
 
Nothing that I can think of either on the FJC that would demand the opposite set up.

Weird, change for the sake of change? Maybe they saved 3 yen per bolt by switching.
 
NCFJ said:
Nothing that I can think of either on the FJC that would demand the opposite set up.

Weird, change for the sake of change? Maybe they saved 3 yen per bolt by switching.
Click to expand...
most likely change for the sake of cost, I would think. Its gotta be cheaper to get a standard bolt and a modified nut than the other way around just from a mfg process, no?
 
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