Replacement Lower Links-Beefy

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Compare Stans pricing to other offerings on the market and it looks like a good value. Judging by the photos I've seen so far the quality looks very good as well.
 
Thank you for the kind words Jonharis. I have been building lower and upper links for the FJ Cruiser and 4RNR for several years. With hundreds of sets sold I have had one complaint.

A guy "claimed" that he bent a tube. The interesting part was that he cound not recall when it happened. How one bends a 24" long piece of 1.5" X .250" DOM tube and does not know how it happened is beyond me. He was also not able to produce either the link itself nor even a photo of the bent link.

This prompted company policy to be that if you bend one of my links, send it back and I will re tube it for free. I've not had one come back yet.
 
The policy for the company from the start has been to keep our prices as low as possible and still keep the doors open. We do not set our prices high enough to even build in discounts for dealers. THis is the reason we do not run sales or group buys. The only item we have ever run a sale on is Viper winches and that is a factory sale.

I do not plan on running any group buys.

I definitely respect this biz model and your product looks great. :cool:

I hoped to find a way to balance out the extra shipping costs for those of us closer to other vendors. Slee is so much closer that i fear the shipping costs to be the determining factor for us on the West coast. :mad:

If not a group buy, any other ideas? What's the weight of the one/both of the arms?

This product looks the shizzy!!! :grinpimp: would love to get my hands on it.
 
Please take a look at both products and compare. They are not apples for apples when you compare the link ends and also the use of larger DOM tube compares to solid stock.

If the upper links of the 100 series are similar to that of the FJC and 4RNR the upper will price out in the range of $225.00- $250.00 per pair. I can not fix a price until I have the dimensions of the links.

Weight on a set of lowers is aprox 22 lbs.
 
I would definitely not compare these to the slee arms. IMHO tube will be far more solid than the solid stock used on the slee arms. Apples and oranges, for sure.
 
1.5" X .250" A513 DOM is stronger. The figures below were supplied by a mechanical engineer.

strength comparison between a 25" length of 27.4mm solid K1045 to the same length A513 1.5" X .250" wall DOM

Based on the numbers (ulitmate strength & yield)

K1045: UTS 90ksi; Yield 54ksi
A513: UTS 87ksi; Yield 72ksi

A513 is going to be stronger overall as the cross sectional area on the tubing is ~.1"squared larger.

For the cross sections you are looking at these would be the loadings for their respecitve yield and ultimate strength points

K1045: UTS 80.82klb, Yield: 51klb
A513: UTS 85.26klb, Yield: 70.56klb

Yield loads are really the main differences.
 
Measurements are being performed tomorrow am. These are looking attractive.
 
Jon, If you would please measure the lowers as well so I can confirm the numbers I have already.

Thank you
Stan
 
Measurements sent!
 
Thanks much Jon.
I'll have to re think the upper links in regard to them being adjustable. I will probably end up making a fixrd length type and an adjustable type. I was basing the uppers on the uppers of the FJC and 4RNR. They are smaller end links on those as the 100 series are the same size end links as the lowers.

Stan
 
Just out of curiosity... why are you building prototypes without a hundy there to test form, fit, function?

Looks like a strong product- BTW.
 
I am already building lower and upper links for the FJ Cruiser and 4RNR. Form is pretty straight forward, they are links, not a whole lot of variation unless you go with square tube or another option for the tube section. Box tube has been done, but can inhibit the "twist" of a link because square tube actually hits the mount.

Fit is a funaction of three basic measurements. Length, bolt center to bolt center, width of the joint and bolt diameter. A forth measurment can come into play, the diameter of the joint but this has not been an issue to date as there is ample clearence in Toyota design to accomodate a 2.5" diameter Johnny Joint.

Function is pretty clear cut as well. THe Johnny Joint and urethane joint along with 1.5" X .250" wall DOM tube have proved to be superior to the OEM Joints and anemic tube provided by Toyota. THe JJ allows for 30 degrees of "twist" which is more than the geometry of the suspension will allow. They also allow the links to move up and down without the tension the stock arms have.

I own a FJ40, FJ60 and an FJ Cruiser that I also build parts for, unfortunately I do not own or have access to a 100 series. I would not attempt to build a bumper for a 100 series without having one in the shop, links are a different story.

I've built a set of lowers for a 100 so far, and now have dimensions for the uppers to be able to design a link.
 
Some FJ Cruiser links prior to assembly.
Both Johnny Joints and urethane ends are easy to rebuild

5422010850_f926d02136_b.jpg
 
Very cool! I haven't torn up my OEM links yet, but I am subscribed to the feedback that will be given to this thread as testing rolls on.
 
jasonbraswell said:
Very cool! I haven't torn up my OEM links yet, but I am subscribed to the feedback that will be given to this thread as testing rolls on.
Just because they aren't bent doesn't mean they aren't shot (milage dependent...). Mine were shot at 140 with no bends...
 
Just because they aren't bent doesn't mean they aren't shot (milage dependent...). Mine were shot at 140 with no bends...

Sorry, got to call BS on that one. This is not a maintenance item.

Happy 500th thread to me. It's onlytaken 3.5yrs.
 
Both o mine look like this. And they ain't WWORs.
image-3907114078.webp
 
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