Replacement bed sheet metal (1 Viewer)

[NVFJ60]

This may be a stupid question but I have to ask. Why can't I have a local sheet metal shop make a bed replacement? Am I missing something? I have excessive rust on the back half of my FJ40's bed. I priced out some replacement beds from aftermarket shops. All I can say is WOW! $550.00. I called a local sheet metal construction shop and they quoted me $80.00 if I brought in a sketch with all the measurements. They said 16 through 20 gauge. They also said they would bend a 1/2 " lip around the edge to make it easier to weld. Does this sound alright? It won't have the stamped ribs. It will just be flat, but it's covered anyways. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[StaleAle]

Without ribs to stiffen the bed, it will oil can and make a heck of a racket. Not to mention it will soon look wavy, like the bed of a heavily used dump truck.

 

[NVFJ60]

OK. Didn't think of that. I will have to ask if they can give me some sort of stamped ribs. The shop has all kinds of metal working machines. If they could stamp some ribs, say 3 or 4 of them, then would you think it would work.

 

[FJsnoozer]

If you are trying to go cheap, You can price out Heavy guage steel diamond plate. Its called "floor plate"

 

[NVFJ60]

If you are trying to go cheap, You can price out Heavy guage steel diamond plate. Its called "floor plate"

I just don't want to spend a lot of money on something that will be completely covered by rhino liner and a rubber mat. I'm not building a show rig. It's definetly an all purpose off road rig. Where can I find the floor plate. Thanks for the info.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I once used the bed metal from a chevy pickup. Just go to the junkyard and take a grinder and cutting wheels with you. Cut out the bed flooring and replace in yours. If it's too small then border it with flat plate or cut the excess off the length and weld to the sides... It looked good and was strong. Any long bed truck should work fine to replace your 40s floor with left over material I'd think.

I paid 50.00 and it was as close to the factory look and strength I could get for a small price.

 

[FJsnoozer]

Thats a great idea. I was curious if that would work... Probably even easier for 79+

 

[NVFJ60]

X2! That's is a great idea. I'm on that tomorrow. Thanks

 

[shipmag]

Does any one have a rusted bed with some good parts in it that I could patch
My 76 FJ40 rear bed and mid bed?

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Without ribs to stiffen the bed, it will oil can and make a heck of a racket. Not to mention it will soon look wavy, like the bed of a heavily used dump truck.

I'm just going to weld some channel to the bottom of my bed to act as the ribbing just underneath. I got this bent up for $50. It's 16ga. with a 3/4" bend to rosette weld it to the lower wheel well panels.

I've done this many other times with early broncos I've used as wheelers with great results. The biggest advantage is that it's WAY cheaper than the vendors, and all you need is to take a couple pics and give it to your local steele palce to have bent up. I've done the pickup bed thing at the local U-Pull-It before, but it's a PITA since the ones around me don't have electric to hook up to. My little portable milwaukee sawzall tends to eat batteries pretty quickly when you are cutting metal.

Aqaula does the same thing with there tubs. Here's a pic.

 

[shipmag]

Toomanytoyzz where did you get your plug weld pliers?

 

[shipmag]

Can you tell me if the qtr panel is welded in the front or do you just take out the bolts that are inside. Its not clear how the qtr panel is removed. Appreciate your videos on you tube.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Toomanytoyzz where did you get your plug weld pliers?

My dad has a local autobody supply company he gets things like that from. You can also try a local welding supply company. They should have them.

Can you tell me if the qtr panel is welded in the front or do you just take out the bolts that are inside. Its not clear how the qtr panel is removed. Appreciate your videos on you tube.

It is bolted in, but I cut it with my plasma cutter right before the strap which holds the 1/4 panel to the rear door post. I had to source out another set since I got too close on the DS and ruined the strap. You still have to take the bolts out and what leftover 1/4 panel material is remaining will come off with the strap. You then have to drill out the few spot welds which hold the strap to the 1/4.

The hard part of the removal is drilling out the plethora of spot welds, getting a good cut line, cutting it and welding the new 1/4 on.

 

[ElHefe]

I'm just going to weld some channel to the bottom of my bed to act as the ribbing just underneath. I got this bent up for $50. It's 16ga. with a 3/4" bend to rosette weld it to the lower wheel well panels.

I've done this many other times with early broncos I've used as wheelers with great results. The biggest advantage is that it's WAY cheaper than the vendors, and all you need is to take a couple pics and give it to your local steele palce to have bent up. I've done the pickup bed thing at the local U-Pull-It before, but it's a PITA since the ones around me don't have electric to hook up to. My little portable milwaukee sawzall tends to eat batteries pretty quickly when you are cutting metal.

Aqaula does the same thing with there tubs. Here's a pic.

Why brace the rear quarters like that? Great looking tub btw.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Why brace the rear quarters like that? Great looking tub btw.

The second pic is not mine. It's an aquala tub. I will be in my glory when my tub has color on it. I'm MANY, MANY, MANY man hours away from that.

 

[shipmag]

Toomanytoyzz thanks for the tips on getting the panel off. I am having a heck of a time getting the cut line marked straight. I see you cut under your final cut abot a half inch that seems like a good idea to get as much oc the old one out of the way then you can lay the new one in and scribe it exactly where it needs to be cut. When I measure it i measured the new fender from the bottom at the door post to the top. Marked that then took a wide flat board and laid it across the top. I measured down to my mark at the door stop from the top to that mark then made several marks from the flat surface down. It measured 2 3/8 inches down from the top. Will this work and make it level all the way around to the back. Can i trust measuring from the top down that 2 3/8?

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I forget exactly what my meausrement was. I just made sure my lines with the rocker was square as well as the lines in the rear. I also measured the marker light opening on the original 1/4 from the front of the 1/4 by the strap on both sides. If you already cut yours just measure the other side. They were the same. Also measured from the inner lip which the 1/4 gets welded to from the inside of the marker light opening. That was dead on with the replacement 1/4.

The one saving grace is you have a bit of wiggle room since you are welding it on. Just take your time and move around. I also use my air gun to cool down the welds as I go.

Here's a pic of the measurements I used. You can't see the lip (which the outer 1/4 is welded to) on the upper wheel well in the pic but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.