Replace Lower Control Arm bushing or not? Picture attached (1 Viewer)

[kwelhand]

2014 LX570 w/ 160K

My mechanic is currently working on my vehicle for basic maintenance work.
He sent me a picture saying that my LCA bushing is start to crack (see pic) and I may have to replace them soon.
Should I tell him to replace both LCA bushings now or drive it until it fails?
I didn't hear any noise coming from the suspension yet.
Also, any other bushings to replace while he replaces the LCA bushings?

 

[nwfl4runner]

If I were you, at 160k, I'd just replace the arms. Bushings, if I recall, are about $100 per arm which, if you either pay a shop or just spend your time removing the old bushings and pressing new ones in, is about a wash compared to the new arms.

edit: to answer your specific questions - you can ride them for a while longer probably, but it's getting to be that time. No other bushings on the arms to replace, but the ball joint is probably worth a look. If your lowers are like that, I would inspect your uppers as well, along with your sway-bar bushings/endlinks, and shock bushings.

 

[kwelhand]

If I were you, at 160k, I'd just replace the arms. Bushings, if I recall, are about $100 per arm which, if you either pay a shop or just spend your time removing the old bushings and pressing new ones in, is about a wash compared to the new arms.

edit: to answer your specific questions - you can ride them for a while longer probably, but it's getting to be that time. No other bushings on the arms to replace, but the ball joint is probably worth a look. If your lowers are like that, I would inspect your uppers as well, along with your sway-bar bushings/endlinks, and shock bushings.

Thanks for taking your time to answer my question... appreciate it.
Did you just replace them with aftermarket ones?

I will ask my mechanic to inspect all bushings that you just mentioned.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Thanks for taking your time to answer my question... appreciate it.
Did you just replace them with aftermarket ones?

I will ask my mechanic to inspect all bushings that you just mentioned.

For that stuff I go OEM, no reason to skimp as they last so darn long - online price search will be the best to save you a ton unless you live near a local dealer who is far more willing to negotiate than mine is:

Suspension Components for 2014 Lexus LX570 | Capital Toyota Parts

oemstop.capitaltoyota.net

$320 an arm ain't too bad

 

[kwelhand]

For that stuff I go OEM, no reason to skimp as they last so darn long - online price search will be the best to save you a ton unless you live near a local dealer who is far more willing to negotiate than mine is:

Suspension Components for 2014 Lexus LX570 | Capital Toyota Parts

oemstop.capitaltoyota.net

$320 an arm ain't too bad

That’s not too bad price.
Thanks for the link… very clear to understand.
Might have to order a pair at this January and replace them all.

 

[bloc]

most likely those are surface cracks and only visible because the suspension is dropped out while the truck is on the lift. If it were at ride height the cracking won't be as visible.

Personally I'd let it go unless you need to change arms due to worn out ball joints or similar. IE if he's having trouble maintaining an alignment. Otherwise i believe there is functionally plenty of intact rubber in there to get the job done, especially at normal ride height/suspension arm angles.

 

[kwelhand]

most likely those are surface cracks and only visible because the suspension is dropped out while the truck is on the lift. If it were at ride height the cracking won't be as visible.

Personally I'd let it go unless you need to change arms due to worn out ball joints or similar. IE if he's having trouble maintaining an alignment. Otherwise i believe there is functionally plenty of intact rubber in there to get the job done, especially at normal ride height/suspension arm angles.

Excellent advice...
Yes, it sounded like even my mechanic wasn't sure whether to replace them or not at this point.

Alignment was done at the dealer last month but very slightly pulling to the right.
Not sure because of prior accidents history but the tire seems fairly new w/ even wear on them.

 

[bloc]

I use an actual alignment shop for mine when needed, and explicitly ask them to torque the lower control arm bolts to spec. 207ft-lb They are often surprised at how high this number is.

In my experience many places just use “tight enough” by hand, and this often isn’t enough to keep things where they need to be on our trucks. Then, your alignment drifts over time as big bumps push things around.

 

[kwelhand]

I use an actual alignment shop for mine when needed, and explicitly ask them to torque the lower control arm bolts to spec. 207ft-lb They are often surprised at how high this number is.

In my experience many places just use “tight enough” by hand, and this often isn’t enough to keep things where they need to be on our trucks. Then, your alignment drifts over time as big bumps push things around.

Wow didn’t know that… that’s really high torque numbers.

 

[bloc]

Wow didn’t know that… that’s really high torque numbers.

While your mechanic has it you can ask him to put a torque wrench on it and see if they were tight enough. 95% of the time they won't be.

 

[linuxgod]

I concur with @bloc. If you find the alignment isn't holding then I'd replace the them. Otherwise they're likely fine to run for quite a while longer

If (when) you do decide to replace the bushings, I'd just replace the entire LCA. A pair runs about $550 and includes new lower balljoints. The labor is the same either way to remove and reinstall them. When you consider the cost of new bushings, new balljoints (since you're at 160k) and the labor associated with pressing them in and out it'll be a wash

Also you're in GA so your LCA cam bolts *probably* aren't seized but definitely have the shop liberally coat the cam bolts with anti-seize as they can corrode and cause issues where you can't adjust your alignment.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

About to swap the arms myself.. am I mistaken in assuming this is a pretty straight forward job on an LX? TX and CO rig with no detectable rust, cams marked, just making sure that there's nothing more complicated with AHC shocks than with a typical LCA job? Cursory search didn't turn up anything LX + LCA specific.

 

[bloc]

About to swap the arms myself.. am I mistaken in assuming this is a pretty straight forward job on an LX? TX and CO rig with no detectable rust, cams marked, just making sure that there's nothing more complicated with AHC shocks than with a typical LCA job? Cursory search didn't turn up anything LX + LCA specific.

It's pretty straightforward, and having an LX with no KDSS makes it even easier than an LC. The sway bar link bolts will probably still be the only challenging aspect.. you can try loosening the sway bar bolts onto the frame, or get the rig back down to ride height (while ensuring nothing about the sway bar binds with the arm or strut) and everything will line up better. Your cam marks will get you ballpark but you'll still need an alignment.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

It's pretty straightforward, and having an LX with no KDSS makes it even easier than an LC. The sway bar link bolts will probably still be the only challenging aspect.. you can try loosening the sway bar bolts onto the frame, or get the rig back down to ride height (while ensuring nothing about the sway bar binds with the arm or strut) and everything will line up better. Your cam marks will get you ballpark but you'll still need an alignment.

For sure, I think my alignment has already drifted given driving behavior and condition of the existing LCA bushings, was tempted to just align it, but am going to go ahead and try avoid the lazy way out.

EDIT: Thank you for the intel, makes me feel a whole lot better.

 

[04UZJ100]

Wow didn’t know that… that’s really high torque numbers.

I’ve torqued joints to 30,000ft-lb before. All relative.

No, it wasn’t my oil pan drain plug.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

No, it wasn’t my oil pan drain plug.

But it WAS your ex's right? lol

 

[chriscosta416]

Replace the arms, you can get them way cheaper than 320 from Japan