Repairing Differential E-Lockers (1 Viewer)

[Kief]

My locker is working fine now. I searched extensively for the ultimate grease. I used white lithium and then some marine lithium based in the motor bushings/bearings. I think if I had found it I would have used Yamalube grease, either the aluminum complex or the race lube which is lithium based. I would think the marine application would lend it to having more corrosion inhibitors. I think the main issue is keeping the moisture out. I'll try to source some for the front which due for some preventive maintenance. Thanks to those who have done the write ups..

 

[xprmntl]

It's definitely nice to give back a little around here. I've learned a lot. Glad you were able to fix your locker issue.

From what I've read of greases, seems that a grease thickened with Calcium Sulfonate work quite well in the presence of water both for wear and corrosion. Some examples are AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Purpose, SYNXTREME HD-Series, Lubrimatic Marine, Lubrizol 86GR, Thixogrease.

 

[ReformedJeeper]

First off, thanks for the great write up, I followed the instructions for the locker (only rebuilt the actuator, not the motor) this weekend and things worked pretty well. I have only a couple of comments on the writeup:

1) Definitely lock the rear differential before removing. My locker wasn't engaging and I had to do this manually. In order to do this, I did the following (You will need help from a second person to do it this way):

• Place the Rear Differential Actuator in the Lock position (again, mine wouldn't lock), don't worry if it doesn't fully lock.
• Chock front wheels and place the T-Case in Neutral. Lock the Center Differential.
• After removing the rear position sensor and sensor plate, I jacked the rear end of the vehicle up so both tires were off the ground. I jacked this up as little as possible so that the wheels were barely off the ground (you will have to stick your head under there, less is more). If you want more safety use jack stands.
• Remove the actuator rod to shift fork bolt.
• Place a screw driver in the hole and apply pressure on the shift fork.
• I had my brother turn one wheel while I applied pressure on the shift fork, when the splines line up, the wheel will lock.
• Remove the actuator and motor assembly.

2) If things fly apart on dis-assembly of the actuator before you mark things, the measurements provided in the PDF file are a good start, but they don't show you how to orient the locker when this happens.

3) My suggestion is you orient the actuator rod at the unlocked position measurement, 2 & 3/8", and then put in the gears/spring plate oriented as shown in the image below: (taken from post by EricG, https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-locker-computer.523324/):

4) Hook up the actuator/motor to the harness and stroke it a few times. Make sure the unlocked measurement stays around 2 & 3/8”. My locked measurement was way longer (over 3”) than what was shown in the writeup. I didn’t care that the locked measurement exceeded what was written in the writeup because there is no tension on the springs until the assembly is actually installed.

5) With the differential still locked, and the actuator in the unlocked position, install the actuator/motor assembly into the axle. The shift fork hole and actuator rod hole won’t line up yet.

6) Have your beautiful assistant rotate a rear wheel while you apply pressure on the shift fork away from the differential. When the splines line up, the fork will move, and you will be in the unlocked position.

7) At this point you should easily be able to line up the actuator rod hole with the shift fork hole.

8) Finish assembly and enjoy your working locker.

 

[sct11]

Can you pull the locker assembly out of the front axle without locking it up first?

 

[xprmntl]

Can you pull the locker assembly out of the front axle without locking it up first?

Really, I go to the trouble of making a guide for servicing the lockers and you don't even read it?!. I'll give you a hint, it's at the bottom of page 2.

 

[lp2k]

Where can we get the tiny springs if we loose one ??

 

[lp2k]

@xprmntl

 

[Kief]

Polyurea based grease is used for electric motor bearings and I think the rating is EM, possibly for electric motor. I suppose that would work too.

 

[xprmntl]

Where can we get the tiny springs if we loose one ??

Likely have to get one from a used unit. Or you could convert to lever or air actuation on your locker.

 

[lp2k]

Hmm I was thinking of using one from a click pen. I'll have to check wolf springs and see if I can use one from a gun.

 

[Kief]

Hmm I was thinking of using one from a click pen. I'll have to check wolf springs and see if I can use one from a gun.

^^^^ but if not I would scrounge something up from a hardware store, demolish some old toys-whatever it takes..

 

[retrofive]

^^^^ but if not I would scrounge something up from a hardware store, demolish some old toys-whatever it takes..

Or possibly a gub store. The AR spring kit has an assortment of springs in it and can be purchased individually. Another place would be an R/C hobby shop.

 

[warezdog]

When I lost mine I used the spring that came off the replacement brushes from a HF grinder.

 

[lp2k]

Likely have to get one from a used unit. Or you could convert to lever or air actuation on your locker.

Any way you can share a link on that to read up on @xprmntl?

Harbor freight grinder has something similar inside ? Any particular model? If it's under $15 I may do it and keep the thing for more parts

 

[warezdog]

I had the cheap on sale $9 grinder that crapped the bed after a day of abuse, they come with an extra set springs/brushes that I set that aside in the junk drawer.

Tried a spring from a clicker pen but didn't seem to have the umph needed, while digging in the junk drawer found the bag with the brushes and used it.

 

[bicycleagent003]

My local Ace Hardware has a bunch of drawers with a bunch of different types and sizes of springs. All very inexpensive.

 

[97grntaco]

I know it's been a while for this thread but I think I have some information of value. Once again I was trouble shooting my rear actuator (it hates me and wishes me lots of frustration) and trying to check for voltage at the actuator. I have tried on several occasions to check for power at the actuator vehicle harness side with no luck. Today I realized that the controller needed to have a signal of what position the actuator is in before it will send power. So I put a jumper between pins 4 (common) and 6 (closed when in unlocked position) and then checked for voltage again at pins 2 and 3. This time it had full battery voltage for a time of about 6 seconds before the controller cut power. I didn't check, but I assume that if the jumper is placed between pins 4 (common) and 5 (closed when locked) that pins 2 and 3 would have full battery voltage again, but opposite polarity. I hope this helps and clarifies checking for power to the actuator. It turns out this time the issue was a magnet came un-glued.

 

[Clymetyme]

Neither of my electronic differential locks was engaging, so I thought I was unfortunately in need of undertaking an E-locker repair. I searched 80 threads for the what and how of removing, tearing down, rehabilitating and reassembling stuck lockers, but was a bit disappointed to find there wasn’t just a single, comprehensive thread. I took it upon myself to collect the best information and cobble together a more comprehensive guide for diagnoses and repair for myself and others. It is attached here in Word file format by our loving moderator, Romer. Thankfully, my issue turned out to simply be a loose switch connector. May yours go as smoothly.

If there is something that I missed, or some gross errors, please feel free to PM me with your thoughts and I’ll edit where appropriate.

Thanks to all of my predecessors who I stole from to put this document together, largely Raventai, FJBen, Photoman, Landtank, Gauge, & Beowulf.

Thanks! You just saved me a bunch of time as I am trying to find out why my locker will not disengage.

 

[Kief]

Faulty lockers cook wires so if they aren't working pull the fuses just to be safe

 

[Clymetyme]

So if I actually locked the locker before I pulled it i would have had no problems, but because I didn't I had to reset the wishbone gear to unlocked. No issues now! It's good to follow ALL the directions. Thank you for all the help!