Repairing Differential E-Lockers (1 Viewer)

[nthnrc]

I know it's been a while on this post but I was trouble shooting my front locker today an noticed the gear on the actuator is missing. The small gear from the outside of the actuator to the yolk arm. Idk if someone in the past misplaced it or something. I can't seem to find a part number for it anywhere. Anyone have any suggestions.

 

[Tools R Us]

I know it's been a while on this post but I was trouble shooting my front locker today an noticed the gear on the actuator is missing. The small gear from the outside of the actuator to the yolk arm. Idk if someone in the past misplaced it or something. I can't seem to find a part number for it anywhere. Anyone have any suggestions.

IIRC, Toyota classifies them as not user serviceable, so no parts available, if parts are needed buy the assembly. The number; AISIN SAT002. So for a gear, the only other option is used.

 

[Kief]

Quit fixing things. Many corporations are depending on you just buying a new rig.

I bet the motor rusts out before the gears die. Post a wanted ad or buy a whole new unit. I think some parts venders are carrying these

 

[Tools R Us]

... I think some parts venders are carrying these

IIRC www.cruiseroutfitters.com/ has them.

 

[danthman114]

when I got my 96 a few years ago, on the test drive, the rear wouldn't lock at a stop and the only way it would lock in is if I made sharp turns to the left and right then it would lock. it still does it just not as bad and that's still unacceptable. I may not have room to turn to lock it in. what do I need to look at first to get it operating properly. I'm assuming I need to clean and lube something. thanks for the help...

 

[Tools R Us]

when I got my 96 a few years ago, on the test drive, the rear wouldn't lock at a stop and the only way it would lock in is if I made sharp turns to the left and right then it would lock. it still does it just not as bad and that's still unacceptable. I may not have room to turn to lock it in. what do I need to look at first to get it operating properly. I'm assuming I need to clean and lube something. thanks for the help...

Sounds like it's working correctly. The rear locker only has 5 cogs/splines, so can take up to a fifth of a turn of differential rotation to lock. In the real world this isn't an issue, select it, drive into the obstacle, if a tire slips it will lock.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Does anyone know if there is suppose to be a gasket behind the rear diff lock position switch? Mine is seeping gear oil. It doesn’t even drip enough to drop on the pavement but I at least want to keep my eye on it. Pictures for reference and sorry it’s so dirty I just got back from Baja! I know in the picture it’s hard to tell how much it’s actually seeping but I cleaned it thoroughly before my trip so In this picture it doesn’t look near as bad as it did 2 days ago.

 

[xprmntl]

View attachment 1761733 View attachment 1761732 Does anyone know if there is suppose to be a gasket behind the rear diff lock position switch? Mine is seeping gear oil. It doesn’t even drip enough to drop on the pavement but I at least want to keep my eye on it. Pictures for reference and sorry it’s so dirty I just got back from Baja! I know in the picture it’s hard to tell how much it’s actually seeping but I cleaned it thoroughly before my trip so In this picture it doesn’t look near as bad as it did 2 days ago.

That stuff is pretty easy to find with a Google search on this forum or on the net:
Replacement for 84222-12010 switch
That link says that the indicator switch on both axles as well on on the transfer case is 84222-12010. It comes with a metal gasket. I'd clean it up, remove it and inspect the metal gasket. If it's undamaged, then I'd try to torque it down to crush the metal gasket further. I saw elsewhere that diff drain/fill plug washer which is designed to crush works in this location. Differential Drain Plug Gasket, Prrt # 12157-10010

84222-12010 is also equivalent to NAPA Pt# NS6421 (also known as neutral safety/reverse light switch), BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011788, Tridon TRS007, Autozone as Part number JA449. The link above also has a lot of info on what Toyota vehicles these can be picked from, used.

 

[COYS]

How many labor hours is it to simply swap out the old actuator with a new OEM unit

front 41450-60060?

rear 41450-60042?

 

[Supra88]

I think it took me about 1 hour to replace the rear actuator. It’s pretty straight forward

 

[cruiseroutfit]

How many labor hours is it to simply swap out the old actuator with a new OEM unit

front 41450-60060?

rear 41450-60042?

View attachment 1847688

An hour tops each.

But don't buy from Toyota, get the exact same part (AISIN) in a blue box for quite a bit less! If you need both we can certainly sweeten the deal

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Having just replaced the rear diff lock actuator in mine which was totally rusted and frozen due to water entry, I got a AISIN replacement from Rock Auto. Same as OEM unit without the Toyota badging and cheaper. Good things have been mentioned above which I will not repeat. The AISIN replacement did come with a good set of instructions and blow out diagrams and torque specs which I thought are very helpful. One pic has the whole 2 pg info while the other two pics are of each page separately. Thought I would contribute to this since I have benefited a ton from the information here and folks I spoke to about it.

 

[Broski]

Having just replaced the rear diff lock actuator in mine which was totally rusted and frozen due to water entry, I got a AISIN replacement from Rock Auto. Same as OEM unit without the Toyota badging and cheaper. Good things have been mentioned above which I will not repeat. The AISIN replacement did come with a good set of instructions and blow out diagrams and torque specs which I thought are very helpful. One pic has the whole 2 pg info while the other two pics are of each page separately. Thought I would contribute to this since I have benefited a ton from the information here and folks I spoke to about it.

View attachment 2042041

View attachment 2042042

View attachment 2042043

How's it lock up now ? Is it consistent ?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Awesome. Works like a dream. Did 7pin mod as well.

 

[daveymg]

Waking up this thread again .. I decided to try and repair the inoperative rear diff locker on my 1995 LC80. I've read through the gold that is the content of this site and it looked reasonably straight forward. Removing the locker went to plan until I tried to tap the locker assembly off of the diff and it wasn't coming loose. That's when I found the 4th bolt of the set of three I thought I had to remove. It's the top left bolt attaching the locker assembly and it's head has been rounded. I'm pretty sure it wasn't rounded by me as it slipped as soon as I tried to move it and I've used a good quality 10 mm socket, ring and open ended spanner to try and shift it.

There isn't enough wiggle room to get a dremel and cutting disk in there or vice grips. I've tried tapping on a 9mm open end but no luck. I looked at maybe filing it off but it would take an age I think, no room for a decent stroke of a file.

Wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and had any success removing or cutting the bolt?

Plan B is to remove the actuator cover but I don't know if I'll end up with a lot of small parts springing out if I do that? Same with he electric motor cover? Has anyone tried to refurb the unit in place?

I've applied 12v to the motor and it draws current and makes a light clicking sound as though it's trying to move.

Appreciate any help.

 

[eastoak]

Waking up this thread again .. I decided to try and repair the inoperative rear diff locker on my 1995 LC80. I've read through the gold that is the content of this site and it looked reasonably straight forward. Removing the locker went to plan until I tried to tap the locker assembly off of the diff and it wasn't coming loose. That's when I found the 4th bolt of the set of three I thought I had to remove. It's the top left bolt attaching the locker assembly and it's head has been rounded. I'm pretty sure it wasn't rounded by me as it slipped as soon as I tried to move it and I've used a good quality 10 mm socket, ring and open ended spanner to try and shift it.

There isn't enough wiggle room to get a dremel and cutting disk in there or vice grips. I've tried tapping on a 9mm open end but no luck. I looked at maybe filing it off but it would take an age I think, no room for a decent stroke of a file.

Wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and had any success removing or cutting the bolt?

Plan B is to remove the actuator cover but I don't know if I'll end up with a lot of small parts springing out if I do that? Same with he electric motor cover? Has anyone tried to refurb the unit in place?

I've applied 12v to the motor and it draws current and makes a light clicking sound as though it's trying to move.

Appreciate any help.

I opened my rear locker cover up on the bench and nothing sprung out but in the end buying a new locker seemed a better use of my time. I usually fix things rather than buy but mine was in pretty bad shape. I couldn’t imagine rebuilding the motor while it’s on the truck, I remember tiny parts did lurk within. And magnets. And a spring.

 

[Broski]

It's really not that hard. Mine looked like toast, but clean up real nice

A little elbow grease and reseal kit from Wit's end and it works like charm.

 

[YoGotti94]

Waking up this thread again .. I decided to try and repair the inoperative rear diff locker on my 1995 LC80. I've read through the gold that is the content of this site and it looked reasonably straight forward. Removing the locker went to plan until I tried to tap the locker assembly off of the diff and it wasn't coming loose. That's when I found the 4th bolt of the set of three I thought I had to remove. It's the top left bolt attaching the locker assembly and it's head has been rounded. I'm pretty sure it wasn't rounded by me as it slipped as soon as I tried to move it and I've used a good quality 10 mm socket, ring and open ended spanner to try and shift it.

There isn't enough wiggle room to get a dremel and cutting disk in there or vice grips. I've tried tapping on a 9mm open end but no luck. I looked at maybe filing it off but it would take an age I think, no room for a decent stroke of a file.

Wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and had any success removing or cutting the bolt?

Plan B is to remove the actuator cover but I don't know if I'll end up with a lot of small parts springing out if I do that? Same with he electric motor cover? Has anyone tried to refurb the unit in place?

I've applied 12v to the motor and it draws current and makes a light clicking sound as though it's trying to move.

Appreciate any help.

Ive ran into the same issue with a rounded bolt. Did you ever figure out how to remove it? I ordered a Extraction Irwin socket set that has a 10mm socket (hopefully it works)

 

[lp2k]

@Broski i see you had the actuator rod stuck, mine and yours look IDENTICAL

Any advice on how you got that part out?

 

[lp2k]

Waking up this thread again .. I decided to try and repair the inoperative rear diff locker on my 1995 LC80. I've read through the gold that is the content of this site and it looked reasonably straight forward. Removing the locker went to plan until I tried to tap the locker assembly off of the diff and it wasn't coming loose. That's when I found the 4th bolt of the set of three I thought I had to remove. It's the top left bolt attaching the locker assembly and it's head has been rounded. I'm pretty sure it wasn't rounded by me as it slipped as soon as I tried to move it and I've used a good quality 10 mm socket, ring and open ended spanner to try and shift it.

There isn't enough wiggle room to get a dremel and cutting disk in there or vice grips. I've tried tapping on a 9mm open end but no luck. I looked at maybe filing it off but it would take an age I think, no room for a decent stroke of a file.

Wondering if anyone else has run into this issue and had any success removing or cutting the bolt?

Plan B is to remove the actuator cover but I don't know if I'll end up with a lot of small parts springing out if I do that? Same with he electric motor cover? Has anyone tried to refurb the unit in place?

I've applied 12v to the motor and it draws current and makes a light clicking sound as though it's trying to move.

Appreciate any help.

I don’t think it’s a good idea to try to repair the unit while installed. I am doing this job right now. You should focus on removing the 4th bolt ASAP. Good luck