Repair funds

[Cetus]

Prior to my 100 series purchase, I almost purchased a Land Rover LR4. The LR4 fit the bill for everything I need it to do, but the expenses and costs of repair really scared me away. Not to mention how often they break down.

Many of the folks on the Land Rover forum agree that one must put away $250-300 each month for unexpected repairs, which is ridiculous.

I know all depends on the rig, but how much do you think should he put aside for maintenance for a 100 series?

I purchased 2007 LX 470 a few months back and have out about 2300 miles without any issues. Love the 100 series for its looks, comfort and off road capabilities. The only thing I notice on my 100 is that there's a slight drone noise only when the vehicle is at a stop, while in the drive position. I'll need to look into this soon.

Cetus

 

[Spike555]

I put away $0/mo for repairs on my Cruiser. So far so good. Nothing has been essential, baselined the truck, and so far the most expensive repair I'm having to do after 18mo and 19,000 miles is rear oxygen sensors for a total DIY cost of $70.
I just replaced my front sway bar end links for $20.
I do not count baselining the truck as a repair cost, to me that is expected maintence for a new to me car and I do not set aside money for routine maintence, that is just part of driving a machine and keeping it trouble free.

 

[Leandro]

^^^^^^ agree

I had mine for 15 months and ~15k miles.
Only thing that broke was a sway bar link (actually came broken) and replaced both for about $30. Other than that was maintenance and baselining.

Watch out with this forum, you might become hypochondriac and start doing unnecessary maintenance just in case.

 

[Cetus]

^^^^^^ agree

I had mine for 15 months and ~15k miles.
Only thing that broke was a sway bar link (actually came broken) and replaced both for about $30. Other than that was maintenance and baselining.

Watch out with this forum, you might become hypochondriac and start doing unnecessary maintenance just in case.

I can't help it, I came from driving an Audi B5 S4 for 10 years. I have replaced everything on that car. So now maintenance just frightens me.

 

[Spike555]

I can't help it, I came from driving an Audi B5 S4 for 10 years. I have replaced everything on that car. So now maintenance just frightens me.

Dude...I had a 1997 Land Rover Discovery...

 

[Riviera]

Put aside $100 a month until you get $1000 put aside, then you can start skimming out of that fund for bumpers, sliders, and all the other fun stuff

 

[dogdaysindurham]

For your drone, it could be the catalytic converter heat shields are lose. I had the same buzz that drove me nuts while going through drive thrus and what not. You can test these by gently tapping with a rubber mallet.

What I did was use stainless steel hose clamps and tighten them down. If you look hard enough you can find some made in the USA ones at your local hardware store.
Heat Shield fix - Where in Tysons, VA

 

[Cetus]

For your drone, it could be the catalytic converter heat shields are lose. I had the same buzz that drove me nuts while going through drive thrus and what not. You can test these by gently tapping with a rubber mallet.

What I did was use stainless steel hose clamps and tighten them down. If you look hard enough you can find some made in the USA ones at your local hardware store.
Heat Shield fix - Where in Tysons, VA

The drone goes away when I put it in neutral. It's not all that bad but I notice it. Does yours do that in neutral?

 

[guardcompany]

I did $100/mo until I got to $1000 and then didn't feel I needed much more than that... Then a month later rear bearing seal started leaking and had to replace the bearing, seals, abs rotor, rings, etc... $550 later. Now working back up to $1000. Personally I think $1000 committed cash should be a minimum on any older vehicle. A LOT more if you own a Land Rover ha. If you have $1000 committed only for repairs (not fun mods) it takes all the stress out of the rare issues these rigs have.

"The man who has anticipated the coming of troubles takes away their power when they arrive." Seneca

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

The drone goes away when I put it in neutral. It's not all that bad but I notice it. Does yours do that in neutral?

Had the same issue to especially when air conditioning was on buzzing sound or sometimes on idle. Is it just loose shield or bolts

 

[RND1]

The drone goes away when I put it in neutral. It's not all that bad but I notice it. Does yours do that in neutral?

If it's not the heat shields, try removing your engine cover. The foam pads on the underside disintegrate over time and the plastic cover rattles. Removed mine and no more drone in "D".

 

[abuck99]

Could be the plastic engine cover making your noise.

 

[Mixelplix]

Since I bought my 07 LX I've done the following 'non maintenance' repairs:

Replaced a TPMS sensor at 133k
alternator at 126k
heater tees at 125k


I bought it in April of 2015 with 112k and I have 144k on it now.

I agree with what's been said above, save $1k in case something large happens (AHC globes, steering rack) and skim off it once and a while for Paranoid PM items, or toys.

 

[krice118]

In the past 3 years I have replaced the starter, AC evaporator core, steering rack. - mandatory
Also replaced the rotors and pads. Truck is solid now and going to start flushing some fluids since I havent dont any besides engine oil.

I am going to start puting $200 aside a month for repairs and mods..... as we know these things are $$$ to build

 

[Cetus]

Definitely going to change out the heater tees and do a coolant flush in the near future.

I'll take a look at the cats and engine cover this weekend. Hopefully I can locate what is causing that drone noise.

 

[AimCOtaco]

It's no rover but I still spend too much on fixing and wheeling it. Don't kid yourself, LC ownership isn't cheap, especially compared with a 4-runner or something... you'll change some of the same parts but LC parts are always a little more $$ due to the added beef or complexity of the LC. Reliability is very good indeed but just because I could drive with broken motor mounts doesn't mean I didn't still spend $250 on discounted OEM parts to fix them (glad they didn't slow me down at least; reliable!). Wrenching on it yourself can save you big $$$ as always.

I'd do it all over again but in my 70k miles of ownership I recall having to replace/fix:

-Throttle body.
-Brakes.
-Starter.
-Radiator.
-Steering Rack.
-Passenger seat belt.
-Rear Diff actuator x2.
-U-Joint (1 down, 3 to go).
-Lower Ball Joints
-Upper Ball Joints
-Batteries
-Engine Mounts.
-Rear Muffler.
-Sway Bar.

Elected to:
-Build it $$$$.
-Buy lots of tires due to trail damage.
-Replaced front wheel bearings.

Right now I'm starting to hear what I suspect is the steering pump getting ready to go south so another "must fix but wont' stop forward motion anytime soon" deal.

My advice is mod it all out and then you don't think twice when a part fails, you just swap it out and keep rolling.

The only item that ever stopped ours from taking us where we wanted when we wanted was the radiator. Every other issue was 'derivable' so it remains highly reliable just not exactly cheap.

 

[Rolocado]

That’s kind of the nature of owning a car though I feel like.... right? There are always going to be expenses no matter what you drive and the vast majority of people pay for autos out the butt cause they can’t turn a wrench themselves. Sure LCs aren’t exactly cheap but cars in general just take money

 

[TheForger]

I always thought that was kinda the nature of life...it's always good to put money away for certain circumstances. Whether it be for retirement, repairs on your car/house/apartment, emergency medical funds (it costs about the value of a nice LC just to be transported via MedEvac...AMHIK), or some other rainy day circumstance. Your truck is an asset, albeit a very reliable one, it will always require extra money to maintain it's condition. IMHO at the minimum keep at least $500 within an ATM's reach for general repairs that you could possibly encounter. If you can manage to set aside enough on a regular basis and that number triples, then pull out enough for a locker install or mod of your choice and keep the rest for a rainy day letting it slowly increase over time again. That's how I've always "financed" mods for mine.

 

[OG 91 LC]

in 2+ years of ownership I've added 10k miles. No funds on the side for "just in case" scenarios. I've had to replace starter and a cv boot clam. Changed the fuel filter for kicks. I'm in about $300. i love reading on MUD what others are fixing and how they fix it, but I don't get all wrapped up about fixing/replacing something on my LX unless it definitely needs it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I track every penny that goes into my cars. The Cruiser has consumed $160 per month over the last 4 years and 65k miles. That includes Slee sliders, two sets of oversize BFG ATs, winter tires, stereo upgrades, group 31 battery upgrade and a 90k service. For a stock rig $100/month is probably plenty.

The failures I've dealt with are:

• Exhaust rusting apart ($150)
• Throttle position sensor arm ($280)
• Ignition Coil ($80)
• Alternator - questionable failure ($440)