Renogy Solar Panel under Gamiviti roof rack for LC100 (1 Viewer)

[tw22]

Hey Guys

My first post here, so might be missing some information. I picked up a Gamiviti roof rack awhile back, and decided to install solar panels underneath, to keep the top free for my thule box and other things. Heres' the build. It took more time than needed, since I had to pick up various pieces here and there to see what will fit. My fridge is connected to my goal zero lithium 400 via 12v DC, and my solar is connected to Goal zero for charging when car is off.

The gap between my rack and my roof was approximately 2" . The assembled sliders with solar panel and mount is approximtely 1.75". Leaving me about 1/8th of an inch between mount assembly and roof.

Build items:

1. 2 Stainless steel sliders - $37.10 x2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ESLCFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Clasp clamps $7 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074R3TK7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. MC4 branch connectors (to connect both panels parallel setup) $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186ZW6DO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4. 6 foot MC4 cables to use when both solar panels are extended $15.90 x2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJB3GB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5. Renogy 50w panels x2 $69 x2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVPPFDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6. MC4 to 8mm - to connect from solar panel to Goal zero 400lithium $25 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DF6795Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7. 6ft power cable to run from top to lithium inside cab $25 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075G1D5CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8. 2 aluminum angles at Home Depot $20 x2
   Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 48 in. Aluminum Angle with 1/8 in. T-801747 - The Home Depot
9. 2 1.5x48x1/8 aluminum flat bar at home depot $12 x2
10. Various metric bolts and nuts and locking nuts $19 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077F2WFLN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• M6 screw and nylon locking nuts (to mount aluminum angle to rack)
• M5 screw and washer/locking washing/nuts (to mount slider to alumimum angle)
• M4 screw and nylon locking nuts (to mount slider to solar panel)
• M3 screw and washer nut (mount latch clamp to solar panel)

1. Can of spray paint $5 Rustoleum black satin

Total build cost not including your wire connection of choice from panels to your battery is approximately $350, with goal zero cables $400

Tools required

• 5/32,13/64,7/32,15/64, 1/2drill bit
• allen wrenches
• Hammer
• Power drill

Steps

1. Drill m5 holes on alumimum angle, minimum 2 for each slider, 4 holes for each angle. (Note: i drilled double that, think that was overkill). These holes were used to mount slider to angle.
   • Note: When drilling the first hole closest to the end of the angle (on both ends), I used the non adjustable mounting hole on the slider as a point of reference. This gave me the perfect length to install the clamps in step 8.
2. Drill 8 m6 holes on top side of alumimum angle w/ flat bar for the "sandwich" mount
   • I call it sandwich mount, since my Gamiviti has the additional basket bars, i figure clamping was the best method of installing. The flat aluminum bar on top with m6 bolts to the aluminum angle.
3. Repeat on 2nd angle, spray paint black. Mount stainless steel sliders to both ends of angle flush.
4. Drill m4 holes 2 on each side of solar panel, to mount to sliding rails.
5. Use metric screws and locking nuts along with washes to secure (solar panel to sliders, sliders to alumimum angle.
6. On rear side of 1 solar panel, drill 2 -1/2 inch holes for wire run between the 2 panels. I used 2 rubber grommets to keep wire from rubbing. On other rear side of solar panel drill 1 - 1/2 inch hole for receiving cable run from other panel for connection. Note, if you have enough space between your roof and solar panels, you may be able to run wires between this spacing, but unfortunately i did not. I had to keep the profile height less than 2".
7. Once you run the 2 MC4 wires from one side to another side, i shrink wrapped the cables at multiple sections to allow for cable management and bend.
8. Installing the clamps at the end of the aluminum angle allows the unit to lock in place. Utilize one of the predrilled holes as a mounting point for the clamp. You may need to enlarge the hole on the clamp to fit the same m4 screw ( from the slider to the angle to the clamp)
   • For the other end of the clamp latch, i had to hammer it slightly to flatten it out, and have it act as a hook. Drill 1 hole for M3 screw and attach.
9. Once all is assembled, lift it up onto car utilizing renogy card board box to protect roof. Slide it in place, put the flat bar on top, slide out the panel, and install the locking m6 nuts. Do not overtighten, since the clearance between the aluminum angle to top of solar panel, clear is about 1/4", fits nut perfectly, but you don't want end of screw sticking out.
   • Note: i put rubber gaskets between my roof rack and flat bar and aluminum angle mount so it won't wiggle free, and keeps from scratching, but i think this is optional.
10. Run wires accordingly and you're done.

For pics you can see :

 

[LandForce1]

Does the panel have the ability to slide out from underneath the roof rack when needed? If not, I would be worried about the roof rack covering up portions of the panel. Even a small bit of a panel hidden from the sun effects its ability to operate optimally.

Your write up and list is very well done!!!

 

[RFB]

If you find yourself wanting from the goal zero try a humless 1500 its a beast

 

[nakman]

Nice job! I've done this twice now.. have thought about making it slide out but with 100w of panels the solar has no problem keeping up with a fridge in the hot sun, I would often leave the fridge on while at work in the summer and come outside to 100 deg truck, a 29 deg fridge, and 2 13.1v batteries.. the RTT definitely shades it though, been thinking of developing a slide-out option for that reason. I tried a single 50w panel on the GX and it didn't work nearly as well, I'll be upgrading to 100w for sure, much better.

edit: I thought I had some pictures of the 100 but can't find them... I did find a pic of the 50w on the GX though, gives you the basic idea. the 100 rack is wider so a 100w panel fits in this same position, whereas the biggest one I could get onto the more narrow GX rack was the 50.

 

[misfittoy]

I had my panel (same one) on my rood rack for a while. But I found that even the shade cast by my boxes lowered my input substantially. I would go from 5amps to 2-3. I ended up mounting mine on my hood. It got more sun for longer. I can clean it when I clean my windsheild as well. When it dies I will place in 1/4 turn mounts and run a flat flexible panel with disconnects and a 20' sections of wire so I can run my panel into the sun and leave my rig in the shade.

 

[LBeckons]

I wouldn't put it under the roof rack, that seems kinda silly. Mine struggles enough here in the PNW during every season except summer. I loose a fair amount of roof space though.