Removing wood trim from window switches (1 Viewer)

[Wesley Crusher]

That's odd. They should just pop in. The only thing I could think of is that there are connectors inside holding it up. I've never had an issue getting those pieces in easily. The tweeter covers on the other hand...

That could be it, but I don’t think so because it happened on both sides. There is obviously some issue if even my shop wasn’t able to do it. The front and back of the plates are fine, but they kind of bulge in the middle. It’s a small detail, but it’s so frustrating lol.

Had this issue recently. There is a metal retainer/surround on the door panel. I found that when I would push my switch panel back in, trying to get the front clip to snap into the retainer piece the retainer would just bend down into the black abyss of the door panel. I ended up kind of holding the retainer into place with a very small flat head and then pushed the switch plate into position and then I was able to get the switch plate clip to snap into the retainer.

Thanks for the tip. I may give it another shop or have my shop try again, but what a pain in the ass it was to remove and reinstall the plates...

View attachment 1808313

Yup, that looks normal. Mine bulge in the center a bit. Maybe the LC plates go on a bit easier than the LX ones? Or maybe I (and my shop) am just incompetent? LOL

 

[knewstance]

Thanks for the tip. I may give it another shop or have my shop try again, but what a pain in the ass it was to remove and reinstall the plates...

After I figured that out it probably only took another 5-10 minutes. You can do it!

 

[NCOBX]

In LCs you definitely don't have to take out the switch plate. I used a heat gun on low, some plastic tools and patience and all mine came off pretty easily. I didn't remove any panels or parts to do it.

 

[Chris Terrell]

Hi - can anyone post some pictures of the switch assembly (especially the front metal clip), and the metal trim/retainer that sits inside the door? Mine won’t snap in and looks to me like it won’t without bending something to make it fit. I have it “snugged” in right now but it’s not flush because the front clip won’t seat. Thanks

 

[Chris Terrell]

i found this ina another thread. My tab/clip needs to be back, up and in it looks like.

 

[Daddy Rabbit]

Hi - can anyone post some pictures of the switch assembly (especially the front metal clip), and the metal trim/retainer that sits inside the door? Mine won’t snap in and looks to me like it won’t without bending something to make it fit. I have it “snugged” in right now but it’s not flush because the front clip won’t seat. Thanks

There’s a good video on here in faq about removing door panel. It will answer your questions.

 

[CloudCity]

i found this ina another thread. My tab/clip needs to be back, up and in it looks like.
View attachment 1817977

You likely bent it flat when removing (which is hard to do as those tabs are pretty stout) but if you're certain take it off to straighten, don't do it on the switch body so you don't risk breaking the plastic mount point. It definitely should take some good force to seat it properly, so don't be afraid to really push it down, but if you can see the clip is bent then that's obviously the problem.

 

[Chris Terrell]

I bent the tab and the situation improved. The remaining issue is with the metal retainer not staying in place. It wants to move downward when I press the switch panel into place, preventing the tab from snapping in which now exerts force upwards onto the panel, keeping the front edge propped up a few millimeters above the door panel cutout (not flush). This also means it can be unseated easily. Hmmm need to figure out the retainer situation.