Yikes. Was it running dry from a leak or is there evidence of something else?
Removing The Transfer Case (TC)
- Thread starter 1FZj80
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Suspect long term leak not detected. Lots of leaks from all the normal spots.
Thank you very much for this. I’ve got a JDM 94 and my transmission output is leaking. I am hoping it’s a very similar process. Did you use any special tools to pull the transmission output seal off?
- Thread starter
- #64
My hands, slides off easily if fully supported and your jack is on wheels.
Oh ok, you didn’t need a seal puller or anything to get it out? Will be dropping the TC to replace the transmission output seal and the TC input seal. To my understanding they are the same part.
- Thread starter
- #66
Oops..., thought you meant the TC itself.
The seal is in a removable flange. Unbolt the flange and tap the seal out. I will look for photo.
Oh ok, so pull those 5 plus and the flange should pop out?
Bolts*
Just wanted to follow up on this thread in case someone does this to their JDM 94 FZJ80. I am starting this process and will do it over the next several days.
Day 1: I removed the TC skid plate and the TC fluid. Next I removed the rear driveshaft. Was pretty tricky to get a breaker bar in there but not impossible. I really didn’t want to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential so I just wiggled it off. This took a minute as the fit is tight. I pried it off using a flat head screw driver. I’ll update tomorrow as a progress.
Day 1: I removed the TC skid plate and the TC fluid. Next I removed the rear driveshaft. Was pretty tricky to get a breaker bar in there but not impossible. I really didn’t want to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential so I just wiggled it off. This took a minute as the fit is tight. I pried it off using a flat head screw driver. I’ll update tomorrow as a progress.
Day 2: I didn’t have as much time today but I did manage to get the front drive shaft nuts removed. Didn’t have time to take the drive shaft off. I’ll be doing that tomorrow as well as hopefully bolts 4 and 5.
Pro tip: when removing the drive shaft of the bolts are difficult to reach out the TC in neutral as well as the transmission and slowly roll the car. Then put the parking brake on and the put the TC in gear. This will make the bolts very easy to access. I am embarrassed to say I fought with extensions before realizing this.
Another Option- place up on jacks under the axles and turn the wheels.
Additionally, the other benefit here is you can remove the transmission cross member lower the assembly with jacks ( used a HF 3ton and their cheap transmission jack) and that softens the angle of the joint at the rear for access.
Not sure how far of a tear down your doing, but before you reassemble and seal down the CDL motor, make sure you place the internal components in the position that you took it out in: IE, H or L range. There is discussions on here that recommend placing in N. I did not do that, but have no understanding as to the why. Someone smarter than me can answer that lol
Made and edit as I misremembered a post that I even responded too….
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Made and edit as I misremembered a post that I even responded too….
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This is good advice. When I put my transfer case back together I thought I understood which way the CDL gear was supposed to be and wouldn't ya know it, I had it reversed. Fortunately was able to lower the crossmember a small amount to remove the CDL actuator. Which I then actuated and reinstalled. Problem solved.Not sure how far of a tear down your doing, but before you reassemble and seal down the CDL motor, make sure you place the internal components in the position that you took it out in: IE, H or L range. There is discussions on here that recommend placing in N. I did not do that, but have no understanding as to the why. Someone smarter than me can answer that lol
Made and edit as I misremembered a post that I even responded too….
Yes, I had mine wrong. I finished everything, and bolted it in, went to bed to fire things up the next morning. Then had the very fortunate stray thought that perhaps I did something wrong. I settled with much resentment to pull it down to check, and I’m so glad I did. Mine was definitely also in the wrong position.
Hopefully this shouldn’t be an issue for me. I am just removing the TC to replace the transmission output seal. I won’t be dissembling the TC. I plan to just remove it with the center diff locked and reinstall it with the diff still locked.
Should be no issue then. All this comes into play when you have the TC out on your work bench in parts.
Not sure your plan for lowering the T case out of the way to get to the seals, but thought I would at least link the jack that I used in combo with another 3 ton standard jack. I also used a combo jack stand with bottle jack, but you could just use a bottle jack too.
You will need to plan and stage your approach with the respective jacks in the right place and in the right orientation. I also had the vehicle lifted higher so that I could also role the t-case on the low trans jack out from under the vehicle. Note of caution if you use that transmission jack or something similar: the angle as everyone mentions is a pain as it makes it want to roll. Just be careful, and easy with movements. I ended up with it sliding nearly off and had to gently guide it to the ground. The strap on the jack I trusted to much and wiggled just enough after tightening the heck out of it to loosen becuase the Tcase is a wedge shape. I would use some more rachet straps next time to pin it in place from other angles It’s not outrageously heavy, but it does still weigh a lot and it does not feel great when it pins your gloved hand on the ground and leaves you trying to figure out how to free yourself while under a vehicle.
Yes honestly my plan is to have a buddy help me lower it. I haven’t really game planned for how I’m going to drop it out. I may pick up that jack you recommended.