Removing The Transfer Case (TC)

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HHR137 said:
Day 2: I didn’t have as much time today but I did manage to get the front drive shaft nuts removed. Didn’t have time to take the drive shaft off. I’ll be doing that tomorrow as well as hopefully bolts 4 and 5.

Pro tip: when removing the drive shaft of the bolts are difficult to reach out the TC in neutral as well as the transmission and slowly roll the car. Then put the parking brake on and the put the TC in gear. This will make the bolts very easy to access. I am embarrassed to say I fought with extensions before realizing this.
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Day 3: I am doing this in very small parts just when I have time. Today I was able to remove the front driveshaft from the TC. Again took a lot of wiggling but eventually came off. I then removed bolt 4. I am having terrible luck with every bolt/nut so far. They are incredibly seized. I was able to break it free using a 5 in extension and a breaker bar. I then removed the speedometer cable and the electronic diff lock connection. The speedometer cable connection blocks the access of bolt # 5 so I had to remove the entire cable. This was a pain and I accidentally broke the plastic bracket that connects it to the TC. Not a huge deal as I am sure I can secure it some other way. Also, in case this helps anyone. Be careful not to put too much force on the transmission pain when removing bolt #4. It can be easy to use as leverage.

Tomorrow I’ll be doing bolt 5 and the remaining bolt with the exception of 6 should go very fast. I will probably drop the TC Saturday. I obtained a second floor jack and will hopefully have a buddy help me. I don’t want to spend the money on a transmission jack so I am hoping we can just guide it down.

I attached a picture. Red is how the speedometer cable connection blocks bolt 5. Green is the diff lock motor. I haven’t seen where the cotter pin connection is. It was reference earlier in this thread. If anyone can tell me how to find it I would appreciate it.

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The "cotter pin connection" is on the shift rod.

FWIW, if you use an impact wrench, the bolts come right out. This is what impact wrenches are made for; don't use them for installation.

You can find the plastic harness retaining clips in the electrical section of the EPC.
 
Malleus said:
The "cotter pin connection" is on the shift rod.

FWIW, if you use an impact wrench, the bolts come right out. This is what impact wrenches are made for; don't use them for installation.

You can find the plastic harness retaining clips in the electrical section of the EPC.
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I’ve got a dewalt impact and it has done nothing for me. Maybe I need to upgrade. Do you have any pictures of the “ cotter pin connection” just so I can know what to loon for.
 
I’ll try (pending my toddler) to get an image of the shifting assembly and the cotter pin. Long handle needle nose set was very handy for this. Mine the first try was seized by rust and took some convincing. But after that it was very easy to install and remove.
 
HHR137 said:
I’ve got a dewalt impact and it has done nothing for me. Maybe I need to upgrade. Do you have any pictures of the “ cotter pin connection” just so I can know what to loon for.
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Not so much a cotter pin as a hairpin...which is why I put it in quotation marks:
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Get familiar with the EPC, you'll need it.
 
If you have to have a cordless...
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I bought one for my son, who lives in an apartment and doesn't (yet) have an air compressor. It hasn't failed me yet. The hog ring absolutely sucks, though (but then, they all do).

Honestly, if I had my druthers, it'd be an air tool. Far more umpff.
 
Malleus said:
If you have to have a cordless...
View attachment 4123286
I bought one for my son, who lives in an apartment and doesn't (yet) have an air compressor. It hasn't failed me yet. The hog ring absolutely sucks, though (but then, they all do).

Honestly, if I had my druthers, it'd be an air tool. Far more umpff.
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And they are more compact generally. Easier to get into smaller spaces.

I have a Makita 1/2in impact and it’s worked well for all my needs thus far. Not as much torque as the Milwaukee above. But it’s more compact.

Edited to include the model I actually have:
 
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Agreed, it's bulky, but that's why I have swivel joints and extensions...it's also a great shoulder workout.
 
I also used that Harbor Freight transmission jack that @Adsing mentioned. I dropped and reinstalled the TC solo. The jack was reasonably secure though I still did my best to limit my exposure and the time it was on the jack with it extended.
 
HHR137 said:
I am not the most mechanically inclined. Is this hair pin on top of the TC?
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yes, above the TCase, but if I recall more so above the Transmission. It connects retains the pin that connects the linkage that from the transfer case shifter in the cab, to the tcase itself. You’ll want to come from the passenger side of the vehicle.
 
Forgot about the JDM aspect of your vehicle. Regarding “seeing things” I used a light, put it up there, then used my phone to video to confirm the things I was feeling from below. But on the US spec models, you can just see it just above the transmission. In general, Wherever the shifter is for the t-case is, it’s going to be basically below that.
 
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HHR137 said:
Ok, I’ll be doing TBI’s first thing tomorrow as well bolt 5 and the rest except 6. If I find something different I’ll try and update the forum. Also any ideas where I can access the EPC for a JDM car. I may try and order one for the plastic retainer clips I broke
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This*
 
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