hi all new to this great sight and need help. i have a bj74 with 13B-T engine with automatic transmission and i want to remove the starter motor to replace contacts as starter is staying locked in every now and then. looks rather a tight fit where it is situated and was wondering if i need to remove engne mount or anything else that will make it easier to remove the starter. also saw one poster who said he had downloaded a toyo manual and i would like to do same, but where from. i live in australia and of course my bj74 is an import with right hand drive and the 24 volt system. much thanks in advance for any info you may have.
removing starter motor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bj4074
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the starter does come out in one piece, but it is the single worst fit of any land cruiser component. It comes out the bottom as I recall, but I pulled the rear battery tray (24v) to get access. I also had a PTO which added more work as the driveline had to be dropped for access.
I'd make sure everything is 100% before replacing- it is that much of a headache.
I'd make sure everything is 100% before replacing- it is that much of a headache.
Just did this myself and had to disconnect the PTO shaft and move it out of the way (if your truck has a PTO) and a mount that connects the tranny to the engine. Tight squeeze to get the starter out but it will come. My biggest problem was the bolt on the top of the starter. It was in so tight and I couldn't get good enough access to it with hand tools. Had to use air to get it off.
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- #4
thanks rick-d and canuck, have taken your advice on board and is very much appreciated, now have a mechanic mate to do the job on a hoist and he hasnt done one of these either, and the local auto electrician has done one about 2yrs ago and all he could remember was that it was a real mongrel of a job to do. and yes just to make it a tad more difficult i do have a pto winch. going to check the lot while its out. thanks again guys.
crushers
post ho
what some of us have done is cut the fender and go through there on the bush rigs. if you do the cut right it actually looks factory.
atarter removal on the 13BT = total PITA!!
atarter removal on the 13BT = total PITA!!
I had to remove mine about a year ago. I friend of mine had done as Wayne said and cut his fender. I was expecting to have to do the same with mine. I tried it without cutting first and I guess I just happened across "the sweet spot". I was able to remove mine from between the fender and frame. I just went out to look where I took it out from and for the life of me can't seem to see where it went through. I didn't disconnect the PTO and did not have to unbolt any mounts. I do seem to remember that it came out a little further forward than I would have initially expected. I think that once it was unbolted I had to turn it and it slid right out. I think it was just right up against the shock tower. Sorry I can't be more precise at this time, but I can assure you that they do come out without having to disconnect a bunch of stuff or cut anything.
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- #7
job done
thanks for the replys guys, we ended up cutting under the mudgaurd. used a disc for cutting stainless steel as these are very thin. just two vertical cuts about 3 inches high and bent up flap created. out she came easily. saved the skinned knuckles and all the swearing. just rivet a strip back over the flap to make it sturdy again. if i need to do the starter again it will be very easy.. thanks again all Muz..
thanks for the replys guys, we ended up cutting under the mudgaurd. used a disc for cutting stainless steel as these are very thin. just two vertical cuts about 3 inches high and bent up flap created. out she came easily. saved the skinned knuckles and all the swearing. just rivet a strip back over the flap to make it sturdy again. if i need to do the starter again it will be very easy.. thanks again all Muz..
