Removing Manifolds

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Thanks, that is helpful. Going to get the bolt and washers to plug the hole today.

Looks like I am going to have to use some half washers in a few places where my bolt faces on the manifold are not quite even. I asked the machinist to spot face them but he didn't.

Hoping for my SOR delivery today so I can get the manifolds back on this week.
 
Went to get a bolt to seal my heat riser shaft hole and realized how much better it would be to tap the hole and thread in a plug, rather than worry about a bolt coming loose that I would not be able to tighten later (one side would be sealed inside the manifold). I got a 5/8 x 18 plug that looks like a good fit if I can get the hole tapped. Anyone done this and if so is that what you used? I saw a post on this at one time but now I can't find it.
 
Decided to take the exhaust manifold to a muffler shop and have a plug welded into the heat riser shaft hole. I am looking for a good used set of manifolds as a backup to add to my parts collection, if anyone wants to sell a set or trade for some smog parts let me know. I also posted on the classifieds.
 
Well Christmas finally came for me today, my carb is back from Jim C. and I can't wait to get home and get to work!

Carb Photo.webp
 
Pleased to report that the old girl is running GREAT. Very happy with the desmog and manifold job. Thanks again to all who have provided so much info to help with the process. Special thanks to Jim C. for his generous advice and great work.

Thus far the SOR heat riser plate does not seem to have affected warm up times, but I will report more info after getting some driving time in. Dead of winter here, 55 degrees this morning :).

Tried to post a video but apparently I have the wrong file extension (.MOV).
 
Thanks, I will try to upload to You Tube when I have a few minutes. Have not had the recurve done, but I will. It runs very well without it, no pinging etc. at stock timing setting but I still want to get it done.

So far the only hiccup is that the carb fan quit working. I reconnected everything properly, and it was working before. I guess the sensor must have bit the bullet. I will try grounding it tonight.
 
Output Shaft said:
Chris, after you get it all back together with the car running, please post back here with your experience using your new manifold block off plate vs. the stock manifold set up.

Specifically take note of the following:
  1. Engine performance when cold compared to stock
  2. Engine warm up time comparison
  3. General engine performance differences noted if any when engine has warmed up
  4. Fuel Economy
I know that other things will change with your engine besides the manifold, so it will be hard to be certain what is doing what. But I bet there are a lot of us would like to know more about the block off plate's performance.

Thanks

fred
Click to expand...

I have been driving this cruiser around a good bit lately and wanted to report back on these questions about the SOR block off plate.

1. The engine performance cold is very good. Far better than my stock 60's. I suspect that has little or nothing to do with the block off plate and everything to do with the desmog, tune up and the Jim C. carb rebuild.

2. The engine seems to warm up just as quickly as stock.

3. See response #1. This engine has a good bit more power than my stock 60's. I would like to think it breathes a little better after removing the heat riser flap but the desmog, etc. made a world of difference.

4. I drive it primarily around town so not great. About 11 mpg. The few times I have driven it on the highway it was closer to 13-14 mpg as best I can tell but I need a real road trip to verify that.

My reasons for installing the block off plate were to protect the intake manifold from cracking and to eliminate the heat riser flap, which was stuck. I am happy I did it for those two reasons.
 
Thank you for documenting your experience here, Chris, and all the input from everyone .

I’m in the planning stage of replacing the gaskets, after discovering a significant leek on the intake manifold to block.

Not certain whether to start a new thread or not, but my question is re the removal of the parts prior to the point where Chris started this thread. I’m wondering if there is anything to watch for (prior to) when setting out on this project - specifically re the carb and shield removal and all linkages, etc.

Thank you in advance.
 
FJStan said:
Thank you for documenting your experience here, Chris, and all the input from everyone .

I’m in the planning stage of replacing the gaskets, after discovering a significant leek on the intake manifold to block.

Not certain whether to start a new thread or not, but my question is re the removal of the parts prior to the point where Chris started this thread. I’m wondering if there is anything to watch for (prior to) when setting out on this project - specifically re the carb and shield removal and all linkages, etc.

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
Take pictures w/ parts attached and label either end of linkages so you know where what goes once disconnected. It's really not hard at all.
 
As far as gaskets, I’ve placed an order for OEM replacements, but not certain on how many rings to order for each exhaust-end elbow. Is it one ring and one spring for each end?

Thanks.
 
The manifolds after 09/82 got two rings & springs, earlier got one set. But you can install dual rings & springs on the earlier manifolds.
 
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