Removing Front and Rear Diffs on FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

12 tons feel much better to me...
remember these have "double" rating. Meaning the 6 tons mean 3 ton per stand...

Depends on the brand. Look at it the way you would overhead lifts. The standard is 4 times the actual load. I often have a primary set of stands, and a second set adjusted to catch the load if it drops 1/4 inch. You cannot be too careful. Use the big tires to stack under the truck, keep the floor jack in place with no load. Thats why I advised Biff to keep the rear tires on the truck.

In front, you have no choice. At a minimum you will be partially disassembling the knuckle, which makes it impossible to do with the wheels on the ground.

Do the rears first-it's easier and will build your confidence for the fronts, when you find out why the $1700 quote was not unreasonable.

 

[Biff]

If you are a doubting Thomas

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=34811

-B-

Far from it, want to make sure I got the right parts. So two sets of 6 ton jack stands it is.

 

[alia176]

6 tons that's 12,000 lbs per jack stand...your vehicle weighs 5,000 lbs! If the price increase isn't that dramatic then buy those but a 3 ton jack is fine. What you're really after is height more than rated capacity! I'm guessing that the manufactuerers are already building in a 1.5 safety factor due to Bubba who is going to use them beyond their rated capacity

 

[e9999]

6 tons that's 12,000 lbs per jack stand...your vehicle weighs 5,000 lbs! If the price increase isn't that dramatic then buy those but a 3 ton jack is fine. What you're really after is height more than rated capacity! I'm guessing that the manufactuerers are already building in a 1.5 safety factor due to Bubba who is going to use them beyond their rated capacity

nope, rating is for pair usually

 

[reffug]

If you are a doubting Thomas

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=34811

-B-

Would anyone dare -B- ?

 

[helocat]

Few extra tips:

A:
Usually the 3rd is quite bonded to the housing with the old OE gasket/or old RTV. With all the nuts off the studs put a floor jack under it out by the end of the casting by the pinion. Slowly raise the jack and the pressure will pop it loose from the axle housing. Now you can rock/pry it off. (Careful if you pry to not damage the sealing surface!)

B:
Right before you install the locker use a rubber tipped air blower hooked up to shop air to cycle the locker a few times. Just plug it into the bare end of the air line intake. This will help seat the o-rings that are the #1 culprit for oil leaking past them and into your air system. Why you have it locked with a + charged air line listen for any leeks. I was shown this trick by Tim Lund up in Seattle on the ARB service bench.

C:
As the ARB cycles it works like a big piston locking on and off. It moves quickly and actually creates + and – pressures inside the housing. The pressures are light however in my rig I developed issues of oil leaking past the o-rings and into the air system. By adding an oversized extra breather to the axel housing this went away. Not everyone has this issue however it is by far easier to install w/ the 3rd out! : Off center and to the side a bit (Like 11 o’clock from the back) I drill and tap the top of the axel housing and add a 3/8” nipple for a breather line. I then run the 3/8” breather tube/line up into the frame and cap the end with a transparent fuel filter to keep dust and debris out. I chose to put the filter inside the truck, but keep in mind if oil works its way up the line it will pour out where ever the breather top is! The reason for the transparent filter is you can easily see if oil is starting to make its way up the hose.

Have fun pulling it all apart!

Mark

 

[Biff]

Thanks Mark, thats good info to have. As far as installing the ARB, I would do it but I'm also regearing, so I figured I'd give that job to an experience tech. Don't want to bite off more than I can chew.

 

[CruisinGA]

You should test the locker for proper operation with a rubber tipped blower at ~100 psi like Mark suggests whether or not you actually installed the locker into the third.

Familiarize yourself with the cross pin and center block assembly before installation. This will make the job easier once the third is in.

Took me 3 hours to go from complete axle no ARB to complete axle with ARB doing it for the first time by myself replacing wheel seals and cleaning/adjusting rear brakes, at 3 in the morning the night before I was to be in Tellico. Not a very difficult job.

 

[Biff]

You should test the locker for proper operation with a rubber tipped blower at ~100 psi like Mark suggests whether or not you actually installed the locker into the third.

Familiarize yourself with the cross pin and center block assembly before installation. This will make the job easier once the third is in.

Took me 3 hours to go from complete axle no ARB to complete axle with ARB doing it for the first time by myself replacing wheel seals and cleaning/adjusting rear brakes, at 3 in the morning the night before I was to be in Tellico. Not a very difficult job.

Good point, I'll test the lockers when I get them back from the shop.

 

[alia176]

Victor,

You feel like all of us are living vicariously through you?

Good luck.

Ali

 

[Biff]

Just an update for everybody that helped me out here.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=47009