Removing factory roof rack and Rhino Rack platform rack install with the backbone. (1 Viewer)

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Location
El Paso, Texas
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www.badlandsexpeditions.wordpress.com
Started the process of installing my Rhino Rack platform rack.

First was to remove the factory rack. The plastic covers were easy to remove with one of my interior trim tools. The front and rear covers came off easily with

the bent side of the tool . Put the curved part of the tool under the trim and pop it off. The same with the centerpieces. pry a little and the plastic will pull out.

Once the front and rear plastic covers are off, the cross bars can be loosened and slid to the rear for removal. I hope to sell those.

There are 8 #30 Torx bolts holding the side rails together. There is not much space between those bolts and the roof.

Knowing that I'm not going to sell the side bars, I just got the sawzall and cut the side bars off .

There is a 12MM bolt holding the center rail on and once removed it pulls off and the roof mount is exposed.

I sprayed all the bolts with penetrating spray. I'll hit them again with the spray in the morning before I tackle removing the bolts and hope all the inserts remain intact.

Hopefully tomorrow will be an "easy bolt on" project. Any suggestion of what to do if a one of the nutserts falls through would be welcome. Just in case.

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Seems a little drastic and unnecessary. But you do you, carry on.
 
I removed the factory roof rack a few months ago off of my '17 LC to install a front runner. Just follow the bolt removal instructions and the inserts should be fine. Someone posted it.. here it is again:

View attachment 2108890

Thanks. This should help someone else. The issue is getting a small enough Torx bit under the rack.
 
The factory mounting points were removed without incident. The unused covered mounting point also was easy to remove.

Each of the bolt holes had a yellow plastic sleeve around it. The kit has a butyl patch to cover each hole.

Be sure to the hole is not covered with the sticky butyl . I learned the hard way as I tried to screw down one of the hex bolts and it would not grab nor would the bolt next to it. When I pulled out the bolts, there was butyl on the bolt and apparently the internal nuts were pushed through.

The other side when in and tightened down without any issue.

My friend called a shop he uses and told them of the situation. We took the truck and the shop pulled off the rib and put in a couple of nutserts and everything bolted down perfectly.

Tomorrow the platform goes on.

Those who thought it would be easy to remove the Torx bolts you can see it was just under 2 inches of space to try to get a tool there. I took the Torx bolts after I got the mount off and they were very hard to break with a 3/8 ratchet.

Cutting was the right thing.

Anyone who needs extra cross bars I have posted them in the parts classified section .

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I had some trouble win one of my bolts when I put my rack on. I went with the ARB rack, but it does make a whistle sound using the wind guard it came with..
 
@mep1811 What length and width platform did you go with and why?
 
I have a small ratcheting tool that accepts regular bits. It would have made super easy work of that 2" clearance. The tool profile is essentially the size of whatever bit you insert. Will see I can take a photo of it when I get home. Incredibly useful tool to have.

Edit: mine looks just like this one Amazon product ASIN B000XYOUS6
 
I have a small ratcheting tool that accepts regular bits. It would have made super easy work of that 2" clearance. The tool profile is essentially the size of whatever bit you insert. Will see I can take a photo of it when I get home. Incredibly useful tool to have.

Edit: mine looks just like this one Amazon product ASIN B000XYOUS6

Those Torx took some leverage to break free with a 3/8 " ratchet. I was throwing the rack away anyway so It had to be cut to fit my can.
 
It took a couple of hours to get everything bolted down. The rectangle "nut" in the channel just did not want to spin horizontal to hold the rack to the backbone. The center bolts were the hardest requiring four hands and me on top to squeeze my hand between the slates to get to the bolts.

The end bolts were easy to spin around and tighten down. My Wife's small hands helps.

I'll check all bolts after a couple hundred miles of driving.

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To facilitate the removal of the factory rack. If you read the thread you would see why.

I did read it, you don’t need to remove the bolts under the side rails to remove the rack just have to unbolt the feet and slide it off. Seems like more work to cut the rails.
 

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