Reducing Body Roll assist (1 Viewer)

[PKP80]

I hope that the hardcore heart can find a spot for this thread.

ISSUE: I want to stablize the truck and offset the body roll in off camber situations

RIG: 96 80 series
Front has 7.5" lift via 6" slee coils and 1.5" spacers
Rear has 7" lift via 6" slee coils and 1" spacers
With a 2"body lift on 38" Toyos.

Current Shock setup are KINGs front and rear with 10/12 valving.

The truck is great on the road as well and in the sand/desert. The softer valving really helps at higher speeds, but when crawling, which is what I do the most of the tippy factor is much greater than I would like.

MY potential solutions: Change the valving to 12/12 stiffer over all, or go with assistance from air bumps/jounce shocks. I know NOTHING about setting up air bumps or jounce shocks. Any info/out of box ideas/etc. are greatly appreciated.

I've also reduced the weight of the truck as much as possible short from chopping off the rear end. (which is not happening, at least not for a while).

 

[Mace]

still got your sway bars?

 

[cody c]

how about transplanting a sway bar from a heavier vehicle. the new dodge power wagon has electric disconnecting sway bar, probally to wide or expensive for your application but food for thought.

 

[PKP80]

still got your sway bars?

Had the sway bars on at the very start, but the truck handles and drives better with out them...not to mention articulates and flexes a worlds difference without the sway bars.

Just to restate....my issues with the lean is on the trail not on the road.

 

[CruisinGA]

What Ian said-

You're way too tall. 80 series guys just seem to go up and up and never look at other methods of fitting big tires...

I haven't noticed much diffference with and without my sway bars when I used to wheel my 80- maybe you should try just leaving one on for a compromise.

 

[alkaline747trio]

What Ian said-

You're way too tall. 80 series guys just seem to go up and up and never look at other methods of fitting big tires...

I haven't noticed much diffference with and without my sway bars when I used to wheel my 80- maybe you should try just leaving one on for a compromise.

Not all 80 guys...

Drop things down, I test fitted a 38.5" Bogger on mine w/ roughly 5" of lift and some minor trimming will have them stuffing nicely. Go with the Slee 4" springs, or the OME Comp 4/5" springs and break out the sawzall.

 

[PKP80]

you guys aren't helping much here.... Let me give one final attempt at directing toward an answer....

Has anyone used air bumps / jounce shocks to aid in body lean and roll control ON THE TRAIL. IF anyone has experience with valving and KING Shocks is a 10/12 setup too soft for the 80 even though the high speed drive is improved? should I go to a stiffer valving? say 12/12

Please ignore Ian he just likes to comment on all of my posts that would open the opportunity for him to have the opportunity of cutting on my truck.

 

[cody c]

you dont want to chop up your truck?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Increasing the valving will only slow down the tippy, it will still tip as much even with increased valving.
Stiffer springs will help but it does not seem like you want to go that route. Sway bars would help but compromise your articulation.
If you shocks are nitrogen charged make sure you are at max presure it will make a difference.

 

[CruisinGA]

Basically, you can't have your cake and eat it too... sorry if you don't like the answers you are getting

Any bumpstop that will have any real impact on sidehill stability will end up having the same (if not worse) effect as stiffer springs or a sway bar.
Phil is dead on with the shocks not being a solution.

Your options for truly improving sidehill stability are-

1) lower your COG
2) heighten spring rate
3) sway control-whethere that is in stock sway bar form or Currie Anti-rock that is up to you

IMO the stock swaybars do not limit your articulation, they just don't let the truck articulate quite as easily. What I mean is that if you really need a given level of articulation in a situation, the swaybars are not going to prevent that flex from happening.

There is a reason the Anti-Rock type sways are catching on...

 

[Mace]

Let me give you one final answer then..

The reason your truck leans so much off road is because you have taken the stock suspension design and exceeded its ability.. Your roll center is probably a good foot above your center of gravity. So, when you are in off camber situations, it leans.. It is the nature of the beast.

Also, Coilovers inherently lean more than other springs do. You can boost the spring rate or alter the valving (won't do s*** for leaning off road) but then it will ride like a bucking horse..

Your idea of jounce stops is a neat one if you want to jump it, but the problem remains that they are just a mini VALVED airshock.. Meaning, they will work just like a shock and in slow motion compress entirely. So, they won't work for your application.

Bout the only thing you can do is get some Antirock style sway bars. That will do more help than anything else.

Or, do the intelligent thing, and lower the truck..

 

[Eskimo]

Your options for truly improving sidehill stability are-

1) lower your COG
2) heighten spring rate
3) sway control-whethere that is in stock sway bar form or Currie Anti-rock that is up to you

x2....

 

[PKP80]

you dont want to chop up your truck?

I never said that I didn't.....thanks for your thoughts guys....the second round helped out.

 

[Tapage]

Just wondering mates .. ya lower the COG involve cut flares and some body work, but I thought is the best way to solved the issue ..

I thought ( IMOP ) with 6" and no spacers and no body lift some cut you get better performance in off camber situations ..

 

[CruisinGA]

Just wondering mates .. ya lower the COG involve cut flares and some body work, but I thought is the best way to solved the issue ..

I thought ( IMOP ) with 6" and no spacers and no body lift some cut you get better performance in off camber situations ..

Slee's coils are quality thick-bar springs. They are definatly stiffer than OME J's. I've pulled J's off a truck to install slee 4" coils and there was a definate reduction in body roll...
No matter how stiff the springs, a truck with 6" springs, spacers, and a body lift is just too tall...

 

[gunmetalcruz]

attach winch rope to axle off back of drum. Install switch in cab continue to wheel have option of sucking the front.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Not to highjack, watched a guy coming down a rock face reel in his axle winch sucking the front end down.

Did not seem right?

attach winch rope to axle off back of drum. Install switch in cab continue to wheel have option of sucking the front.

 

[gunmetalcruz]

You would want the front loose for most uptravel and suck the rear if a really big drop. and or also drive in front wheel drive only dropping it in second or third in case you need to float the valves outrunning a nose wheely

 

[PKP80]

i have told him it was too tall for a year now... but he dose not lisen to me. I think that 6" springs and a cut wells are the way to go. lower the truck so you wont be on 3 wheels all the time

Cut wells are a great idea and I will do them eventually. To cut the front is rather simple, but the rear is a little more challenging and I do not want a s***ty job. that said I don't have the $$$ or the time to do a proper wheel well job the way I would like for it to be done.

Ian go back to the 40 section...this is not the mothers "I told you so" hotline. Last I checked you tried to get me to throw 40's under the truck.

 

[Eskimo]

Just wondering mates .. ya lower the COG involve cut flares and some body work, but I thought is the best way to solved the issue ..

I thought ( IMOP ) with 6" and no spacers and no body lift some cut you get better performance in off camber situations ..

To a point, I'd rather run less suspension lift and keep the body lift, if the primary goal is to get CoG down, since a suspension lift lifts everything, and a bodylift leaves the drivetrain & frame alone.

Plus, bodylifts can be a good tool for getting the driveline above the frame rails..