Builds Redline's Resto Rock Rod
- Thread starter Boing
- Start date
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looking real good, I haven't seen one of these swaps before.
- Thread starter
- #23
Whats up Steve! Hows it going?
Vkfzj80 thanks, just playing with it & building what I want
Well this weekend I cant work on the 40, But we are going to Estes Park to stay in the cabin for 3-4 days. I also stumbled upon a blower for my 5vz 20k miles, URD 7th injector for dirt cheap so I scooped it up.
Because I have to take things apart to be sure, I opened it up for cleaning and to see the oil. It was perfect so it will just be resealed and fresh oil put in.
Here is a pic as it sits awaiting oil....
By the way that supercharger oil is some of the most fouling stuff I have ever smelled & I have been playing with cars for awhile...
Vkfzj80 thanks, just playing with it & building what I want
Well this weekend I cant work on the 40, But we are going to Estes Park to stay in the cabin for 3-4 days. I also stumbled upon a blower for my 5vz 20k miles, URD 7th injector for dirt cheap so I scooped it up.
Because I have to take things apart to be sure, I opened it up for cleaning and to see the oil. It was perfect so it will just be resealed and fresh oil put in.
Here is a pic as it sits awaiting oil....
By the way that supercharger oil is some of the most fouling stuff I have ever smelled & I have been playing with cars for awhile...
jfz80
Cruisin’
Sweet score there, that'll be fun and the 7th injector option is nice protection.
Sweet build, ill be following along for sure.
Sweet build, ill be following along for sure.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for heads up apreciate the comments (good bad or indifferent) look forward to next weekend to finish the motor mounts (little bit at a time) will install the blower shortly...
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nice work, I will also be following your progress. Have you used a crossmember and mounts like that before with the polybushings?
- Thread starter
- #27
They are actually hard duralin bushings (cross-member to frame) with a factory rubber mount on the transmission. Will be adding an additional brace that runs back from the trans cross-member, will catch 6 of the oil pan bolts on the Atlas & then end being supported by rubber bushings. It will be setup to help support the drivetrain, but still allow the torque to roll the drivetrain when its loaded up (rather than break the bellhousing or mounts).
Lil runnah I have built several crossmembers that solid mount the entire drivetrain in race trucks that use a similar design, in this truck I wanted to allow the movement so that it doesn't try to tear itself apart. I want the drivetrain to be able to move, but in a controlled manner, using rubber mounts everywhere will keep vibrations to a minimum. I want zero vibrations and want it to be stronger than normal rubber mounts. I know the rubber mounts will be a wear item (all mounts are going to be modded so that they can't tear apart and fall), however I want this truck to run down the road comfortably.
Lil runnah I have built several crossmembers that solid mount the entire drivetrain in race trucks that use a similar design, in this truck I wanted to allow the movement so that it doesn't try to tear itself apart. I want the drivetrain to be able to move, but in a controlled manner, using rubber mounts everywhere will keep vibrations to a minimum. I want zero vibrations and want it to be stronger than normal rubber mounts. I know the rubber mounts will be a wear item (all mounts are going to be modded so that they can't tear apart and fall), however I want this truck to run down the road comfortably.
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gotcha. fab work looks great! wasn't trying to be critical, just curious because I just had to redo mine because I used a similar design but used polybushings from ballistic. It worked well to limit the side to side movement but I got too much movement front to back.
I have since gone with a solid crossmember and have it tied into a heavy duty mount on the tcase and the stock mount for the trans. For my application it's far better than what I had.
I like to see a close up of the bushings if you get a chance. ...ideas for future. Keep those pics coming please
I have since gone with a solid crossmember and have it tied into a heavy duty mount on the tcase and the stock mount for the trans. For my application it's far better than what I had.
I like to see a close up of the bushings if you get a chance. ...ideas for future. Keep those pics coming please
Subscribed!
- Thread starter
- #30
Not 100% pleased with how the motormount gussets came out but I am done fighting with them (some days you just have to accept the loss & move on). Got the blower installed...
Then threw the bib and hood on to check for hood clearance. Have good clearance on the fan to radiator. I knew that the original drivetrain sat about 2"s to the drivers side, however I never noticed that the radiator mount was also shifted ( it makes since just hadn't noticed it till today). I will probably section the radiator mount and extend it so that it is over the frames rails on both sides.
Then threw the bib and hood on to check for hood clearance. Have good clearance on the fan to radiator. I knew that the original drivetrain sat about 2"s to the drivers side, however I never noticed that the radiator mount was also shifted ( it makes since just hadn't noticed it till today). I will probably section the radiator mount and extend it so that it is over the frames rails on both sides.
- Thread starter
- #31
I am going to be gone starting tomorrow morning, Vegas to Reno, Chasing for 1020 if you are out there stop by!
Will pick-up working on the truck weekend after next...
Also Lil Runnah I haven't forgot about you, I simply forgot to take some pictures of the bushings this weekend. I will ask Justin to take a picture of a few we have in stock and post it up...
Will pick-up working on the truck weekend after next...
Also Lil Runnah I haven't forgot about you, I simply forgot to take some pictures of the bushings this weekend. I will ask Justin to take a picture of a few we have in stock and post it up...
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- Thread starter
- #32
Motor Mounts are finished
Motor mounts are done gussets, caps, and all. Also drilled a hole through the motor mount and slipped in a grade 8 bolt so the rubber can't tear apart. Not much to look at but for some reason it took me almost all day.
Additional side shots that aren't so fuzzy. I now need to measure off for a radiator, finish the trans tunnel, and trans shifter...
Motor mounts are done gussets, caps, and all. Also drilled a hole through the motor mount and slipped in a grade 8 bolt so the rubber can't tear apart. Not much to look at but for some reason it took me almost all day.
Additional side shots that aren't so fuzzy. I now need to measure off for a radiator, finish the trans tunnel, and trans shifter...
7th injector option for SC?
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- #34
Yeah its got the 7th injector, and a piggy back computer to control mixture and timing...
sorry. what is a 7th injector option? is there an extra fuel injector in the SC air intake chamber?
- Thread starter
- #36
Yeah its right behind the throttle body. Its put into the EGR return slot. Most 5vz motors don't have EGR...
Circled in red, obviously the blue line is the fuel supply line (just T's into the normal fuel supply line.) You then plug the 7th injector into the piggy back computer and dial in more fuel to keep it from leaning out to much and smooth fuel'ing transitions.
Circled in red, obviously the blue line is the fuel supply line (just T's into the normal fuel supply line.) You then plug the 7th injector into the piggy back computer and dial in more fuel to keep it from leaning out to much and smooth fuel'ing transitions.
that is a sweet option right there. so the piggy back computer ONLY controls the 7th injector and not the other injectors as well? seems like an easier way to add fuel.
So that motor should put out around 300 hp, correct? I guess around the same amount of torque. do you know when the max torque comes in ?1500-2000 rpm?
So that motor should put out around 300 hp, correct? I guess around the same amount of torque. do you know when the max torque comes in ?1500-2000 rpm?
- Thread starter
- #38
Piggy back only controls 7th injector & ignition timing...
I have heard 300hp but never actually seen it, I think that's a bit lofty of a number... My base elevation is 6K+ so I think I would be happy with 240 hp (more importantly 240-250'ish torque). Torque peak comes in at roughly 1800 rpm's...
It should basically make 80's Small Block Chevy power out of a V6...
I have heard 300hp but never actually seen it, I think that's a bit lofty of a number... My base elevation is 6K+ so I think I would be happy with 240 hp (more importantly 240-250'ish torque). Torque peak comes in at roughly 1800 rpm's...
It should basically make 80's Small Block Chevy power out of a V6...
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- #39
Spent 3/4's of the day helping a friend fix his jeep Cherokee (it rolled and broke a hinge off the door). So all I completed was the shifter & I screwed that up! For now here is the finished product. I wrote down the throws on the original 4speed and I have got them pretty close with the new AX15...
looking good, I know how those seemingly small jobs can sometimes be the ones that bust yer nuts the most. Lovin' this project, keep up the good work!