Recovery Bolt Hole - Captive Nut Off Center (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kigiin
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I had a similar issue on the back of my frame when installing my BOIR rear bumper. I ended up using a hole saw to cut an opening on the inside face of my frame big enough for a ratchet and socket to fit. Busted to old one out and installed a new bolt and nut.
FullyLitLED
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Did not want to start a new thread regarding this topic, I have a similar issue
As I started fitting the accordion mounts for my ARB, I have a recovery bolt that wont go through the hole straight...I can tighten to about half the length and it stops
Tried re-inserting the bolt and tightening it, nothing works. The other three bolts are fine but this last one is pissing me off
What do I need to do? Is there a fix for that?
As I started fitting the accordion mounts for my ARB, I have a recovery bolt that wont go through the hole straight...I can tighten to about half the length and it stops
Tried re-inserting the bolt and tightening it, nothing works. The other three bolts are fine but this last one is pissing me off
What do I need to do? Is there a fix for that?
Try cleaning the threads first. Both the bolt and nut. Sounds as if it is trying to cross thread. If the threads on the bolt are good (new bolt or old?). Try running a correct tap through the nut to clean it up.
Another quick question, have you tried using one of the other bolts? make sure everything is loose as well before trying to get it in.
Another quick question, have you tried using one of the other bolts? make sure everything is loose as well before trying to get it in.
I have the same issue as the OP on my rear hitch bolt, its the one of the three that isn't used for the tie down, i.e. the one furthest forward.
Mine doesn't look to be as bad as yours though. I think i will try drilling it out and then running a SAE tap through it next size up or a helicoil.
Mine doesn't look to be as bad as yours though. I think i will try drilling it out and then running a SAE tap through it next size up or a helicoil.
Layomann - that is the same exact one I had issues with. Ended with the hole saw in the side of the frame. never could get it worked out. Ended up the hole saw route I mentioned above. Good luck! It is a royal pain.
Yup.
From what i can see, it looks like the frame is two c-channels welded together out in the back. It looks like the captive nut sits on one of the bottom of those Cs and that part shifted slightly. Not sure how or what caused it.
I am hoping just to drill to straighten it up, and then use the smallest next size up, which will probably have to be a SAE bolt and tap. I had to do something similar to my 80 when i stripped one of the rear bolts holding on my 4x4 Labs rear.
Can't you just use an alignment bar to shove in the hole?
If you can get in the frame the space may still be too small to get a ratchet or wrench into. Take a piece of flat bar steel long enough to reach the hole and drill a hole close to the end. Weld the nut onto the flat bar steel over the hole then slide the piece down into the frame and bolt it up. The flat bar steel with act as a washer. I had to do this when mounting my ARB bumper to my FJ.
I guess technically it is a pry bar, but it is tapered on the long end so that you can use it to align bolt holes, when components are not aligned.
Here is a link: 1250, Prybar, 12"
wildsmith
SILVER Star
The hitch mount nuts are on a L shaped bracket that only seems to be tacked to the frame up the top & side, not the bottom. If the bolts are really stiff coming out, last one out distorts the bracket so the other hole doesn't line up. When the bolts are stiff coming out you need to put the other bolt back in to stop the twist. Found this out the hard way on a friends truck. Taped a chisel to the end of a 1/2" round bar and by putting that down the inside of the chassis rail (with the bumper off) chiseled the bracket off and replaced it with new nuts welded to a strip of steel.
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- #13
^ yep, this bolt was really tough to get out - wasn't sure what was going on until it was too late. And I had already removed the other bolt so it wasn't there to prevent the twisting.
I can't weld so any solution involving that will require a visit to a shop (and $).
I can't weld so any solution involving that will require a visit to a shop (and $).
Same thing happened to me when removing the factory rear bumper and trailer hitch. The first nut broke free from the bracket Wildsmith is talking about so it was spinning freely inside the frame. The second bolt was a real pain to get out and the above described deformation happened. I was able to reach a socket and ratchet inside the frame from the open end and get the loose nut off. However, no way to weld a solution like Wildsmith described, I was left with no other choice but to install new bumper and cut hole like I described above.
It has been a while, but I believe you can only use the method Wildsmith described on the rear of the vehicle. I believe for the front, you still need to make an opening in the frame. Can some one confirm? I believe this discussion is a great one for the forum!
wildsmith
SILVER Star
Yes, that would only work for the rear for Layonnn, the front rails have a plate preventing that kind of access. You might get somewhere with the alignment bar idea and some patience and possibly an M14 metric fine tap to run through the nut after to remove the burrs the bar will have caused.
