Recovering Rover owner, just picked up an FZJ80 (2 Viewers)

[TRPLLKD]

Long time reader, first time poster! I've been off-roading in some form for about 15 years and have owned an XJ, a T100, a Discovery II, and just bought a 96k mile RHD FZJ80. It was imported to the states about 5 years ago, purchased from the importer by an older woman who used it as a mail truck for about 2 years, then it's sat for about the last 2.5. Overall it's in great shape for a 32 year old 4x4. Other than the a/c only blowing cold intermittently, everything works including the fridge.

I've changed the oil from 5W-30 to 15W-40 Rotella since it's still pretty warm, and have some 285/75 AT4Ws ordered. I've got some minor coolant leak(s) at what I believe is the rear heater valve, front axle seals look suspect, but she's done great for the roughly 100 miles it took to get her home.

Of course we've got some rust in the rear floor. I'll tackle this over the winter; not sure what the best approach will be but it doesn't seem too bad.

Not sure whether I need to replace this piece, or just need new hoses. Planning to dig into this and the axle seals once it's not 100+ degrees out.

 

[TRPLLKD]

I'm a bit unsure of what's going on with the springs/shocks. This thing is way taller than most of the "stock" 80s I've seen online, but none of this looks like aftermarket stuff to me. Did some of these come with factory lifts? It's currently on 270/75s and they look a bit undersized to me. I went with 285/75 for the Wildpeaks since my research said this size fits stock; hopefully these fill the wheel wells a bit better.

 

[Mag71k5]

Not sure whether I need to replace this piece, or just need new hoses.View attachment 3970898

Cool cruiser! I'd go ahead and buy a new heater control valve, usually if they are that far gone, when you try and change the heater hoses the plastic heater control valve will break apart. You can still buy both the hoses and valve from Toyota. Some dealerships are cheaper than others, Stevenson Toyota west here in Colorado offers pretty good deals for online orders. Shop around, but I wouldn't wait too long to replace it.

If the hose still has those odd factory worm gear/twist clamps, it probably needs replacing.

Don't skip the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose), it should be easier to get to on a RHD rig.

Good luck, and welcome to the family, go ahead and burn your wallet before it's too late also.

 

[TRPLLKD]

Cool cruiser! I'd go ahead and buy a new heater control valve, usually if they are that far gone, when you try and change the heater hoses the plastic heater control valve will break apart. You can still buy both the hoses and valve from Toyota. Some dealerships are cheaper than others, Stevenson Toyota west here in Colorado offers pretty good deals for online orders. Shop around, but I wouldn't wait too long to replace it.

If the hose still has those odd factory worm gear/twist clamps, it probably needs replacing.

Don't skip the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose), it should be easier to get to on a RHD rig.

Good luck, and welcome to the family, go ahead and burn your wallet before it's too late also.

I just finished watching a video about the PHH and was thinking I may as well do 'em all in one shot. Thank you for the suggestions, I'll see if I can get those in hand before next week. Hoping to get this thing on some trails on Monday!

 

[Fosters]

That’s was me once

Haven’t looked back since getting the yota

 

[doc_random]

Preetty good looking rig! Rust and oil leaks are not so badA
Shock bushings look to be toast. This can lead to more play in the suspension as the rubber collapsees and gets loose.

 

[Kabanstva]

That’s was me once
View attachment 3971010
Haven’t looked back since getting the yota

Is that photoshopped? I thought these were similar size vehicles. 80 looks like a Mini Cooper here.

 

[MooseMichaels]

Welcome and congrats! I was a big rover fan once upon a time (still love the looks), but found my heart was always being broken because I was doing more fixing and spending than driving. Now I am doing upgrading and spending rather than driving, but at least now it's by choice

I think you'll enjoy the 80 series - similar to a disco for the solid axles, and the LC community is awesome.

 

[TRPLLKD]

Preetty good looking rig! Rust and oil leaks are not so badA
Shock bushings look to be toast. This can lead to more play in the suspension as the rubber collapsees and gets loose.

Oh yeah, most of the bushings are pretty shot. That’s actually the first big project on my list once it cools down a bit (and once I sell my CTS-V). It starts and runs great, and the oil leaks are all real small from what I can tell, so I’m going to tackle steering and suspension, then brakes, and finish the “restoration” with addressing the leaks. Hopefully I’ll have enough left in the budget to add some armor this year.

@MooseMichaels thats exactly where I’m at. I’m going to miss driving it, but I’ll be glad I don’t have to work on it anymore.

@Fosters great looking Disco!

 

[Broski]

It’s my understanding that the Disco’s have very beefy front end so the tow truck has something to hook on to

Welcome to MUD !
Clean looking 80

 

[Fosters]

Is that photoshopped? I thought these were similar size vehicles. 80 looks like a Mini Cooper here.

No not photoshopped, that said the disco was sitting on 33” stampers and a healthy lift…the cruiser was stock as stock comes…

 

[Kabanstva]

No not photoshopped, that said the disco was sitting on 33” stampers and a healthy lift…the cruiser was stock as stock comes…

Yeah those are not 33s

 

[TRPLLKD]

It’s my understanding that the Disco’s have very beefy front end so the tow truck has something to hook on to

Welcome to MUD !
Clean looking 80

I'd be offended if my Disco hadn't spent more time on a flat bed than all of my other vehicles combined

 

[Fosters]

Yeah those are not 33s

My bad….auto correct and fat fingers….they were 34” swamped ltb’s

 

[mudgudgeon]

I've changed the oil from 5W-30 to 15W-40 Rotella since it's still pretty warm

Do some reading. The FSM has a chart for oil viscosity for different temperaturec rashes, but i think the consensus here would be to lighter woth the oil.
10W-30 or 5W-30. I'm sure others will comment.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Shocks and springs may be aftermarket, just sprayed black.

You can get a gauge on its lift by measuring from centre of hubs to top of the fender arch. I think 20" is stock.

 

[smoothcruiser]

Imagine if a T100 had a solid front axle. Welcome to the wonderful world of the 80 series.

 

[TRPLLKD]

Do some reading. The FSM has a chart for oil viscosity for different temperaturec rashes, but i think the consensus here would be to lighter woth the oil.
10W-30 or 5W-30. I'm sure others will comment.

My oil pressure gauge was a bit lower than I'd like in traffic. Sits about a needles width below the lower mark now. I'll be going to something like a 5W-40 when it cools off.

Shocks and springs may be aftermarket, just sprayed black.

You can get a gauge on its lift by measuring from centre of hubs to top of the fender arch. I think 20" is stock.

They're definitely not painted, unless someone did an incredible job. Possibly powdercoated, but I've never heard of anyone doing that with shocks. I suspect the springs are aftermarket. Not sure about the shocks, but I'll be swapping everything out w/ OME bits in the spring anyway.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The original gauge is not neccesarily very accurate, and needle position will vary from vehicle to vehicle.
If you see the needle rise on start up, and it's hovering around the lower mark at idle, and rises again to ⅔-¾ with an increase in revs, you're probably good.
If you're unsure, verify it with a mechanical gauge

 

[BILT4ME]

Just make sure to use Toyota parts where at all possible so you maintain reliability.

My LC spits out aftermarket stuff.

Buy all rubber products from www.partsouq.com keep orders under $800.