Builds Rebuilding Toyota Engines (1 Viewer)

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nab856

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 22, 2023
Threads
3
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96
Location
New Mexico
This engine needs rebuilding. It will take a while. I'll post the progress!

Background: I bought a 4WD 1987 Toyota extended cab pickup truck with 22re engine when I was in college. It ran but wouldn't pass county emissions. After a summer of tinkering, a top-end overhaul got it to pass emissions. This truck's odometer was broken when I bought it. The odometer read 716,000 miles. How many actual miles is unknown.

These Toyota pickups are good, tough trucks but were designed when the speed limit was 55 mph. They don't have enough displacement for a combination of 5000 ft+ elevation, aerodynamics of a brick, and climbing hills at today's highway speeds. Fortunately, Toyota recognized this issue and attached turbos to this 4-cylinder engine back in the mid-80's. Other companies also produced forced induction solutions to the above-mentioned problems.

This project to date:
Found a 22rte block which I had bored, honed, and decked
Purchased all the OEM turbo parts
Camden supercharger kit
Machined OEM crank shaft
Matching connecting rods

I haven't decided if the build will be forced induction or compound forced induction. Any thoughts?

22re block.jpeg


super charger and turbos.jpeg
 
I'm curious to see how you mate the blower with the turbo.
 
I'm curious to see how you mate the blower with the turbo.
Air-to-water intercooler above the valve cover so air conditioning isn't sacrificed and there aren't any extra holes cut for tubing. Need to get the engine assembled to work out the spacing.
 
How to improve the CT20's compressor map: Add a MK III Supra compressor from a CT26! I got a little help from my friend. Fortunately, my friend likes me, has serious tools, and great skills. For the turbo enthusiasts: Hill Country Performance & Machines CT26 "Danny's Turbo Rebuilding Master Class" Parts 1-3 (Faye Hadley channel videos).

ct20 hybrid 1st.JPG


ct20 hybrid 2nd.JPG


ct20 ct26.jpg
 
22rte short block.jpg

Short block is together! Working on the head. The entire assembly rotates smoothly using a short wrench and a few fingers. The micrometers and Plastigage were right!
 
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22rte head.jpg

Camshaft bolts torqued to spec. Camshaft rotates complete revolutions with the use of the thumb and forefinger. Valves seat properly. Checked with penetrating fluid.
 
View attachment 3824227
Camshaft bolts torqued to spec. Camshaft rotates complete revolutions with the use of the thumb and forefinger. Valves seat properly. Checked with penetrating fluid.
Right on! I've put lots of engines together, but have never properly built one.
 
Camshaft rotates complete revolutions with the use of the thumb and forefinger.

Yeah, that's something I'll never be able to do on either of my Toyota engines. :rofl:
 
Is the Head Worth the Rebuild Effort? A DIY Approach

1. Remove the head
Pulling the head.jpg

This one went into the garbage! 😭 Had to buy another one. :cry: The next few pictures are of a recently purchased, used head.

2. Clean head: Some form of detergent and water. Don't do this step until you are ready to disassemble the head. A lot of perfectly good engine subassemblies have been ruined by time and rust!

3. Disassemble head: Don't be afraid to make tools
Valve keeper remover.JPG


4. Check for cracks. None noticed thus far!

5. Check for head warp
camshaft and layout fluid.JPG

Both intake and exhaust camshafts rotate freely with gentle thumb and forefinger pressure with the camshaft cap bolts torqued to spec. You can see where the camshaft is rubbing using layout fluid. If the head is warped, you won't be able to rotate the camshaft freely.

6. Clean the head gasket surface
Cleaning the head gasket surface.JPG

Flat block of aluminum, sandpaper, and C-clamps.

7. Make sure the head gasket surface is flat
0.0015 feeler gauge.JPG

Aluminum straight edge and 0.0015" feeler gauge was used. The aluminum straight edge was tested for straightness against a pane of glass.

8. Check the valve seat/valve surface engagement
valve and cork.JPG
Mark the valve with a permanent marker every 30-45 degrees. Move the valve a few degrees clockwise and counterclockwise against the valve seat. I used a rubber cork to gently apply pressure. Repeat for the rest of the valves.

Valve with marks.JPG

The result! If the valve and valve seat are good, the marks should be removed evenly around the valve.

The head looks good thus far! Time for the rebuild.
 
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Is the Block Worth the Rebuild Effort? A DIY Approach

7M GTE Rear Main Seal.jpg

1. Remove the short block (in the case of this project). Usually, the entire engine is removed.

2. Rotate the crank by hand. It should rotate easily and smoothly. In the case of this engine, the crank rotated using a few fingers and twists of the wrist.
3. Disassemble the block components.
4. Clean components and check for cracks.
5. Protect precision surfaces with your favorite product. Rust creates rough surfaces and pitting.

main journal surfaces.JPG
6. Assess the main journal surfaces for damage. Spun bearings make messes! Ensure the cross hatch is still there (it is). This block has oil squirters! 😍


cylinder crosshatch.JPG

7. Assess the cylinders for grooves and pitting as well as crosshatch. Crosshatch is still there all the way down and around.

cylinder bore diameter.JPG

8. Measure the cylinder diameter. A micrometer is needed. Cylinders must be CYLINDRICAL! 😁Out-of-round and/or conical cylinders don't allow piston rings to seal well against the cylinder wall. The factory service manual recommends cylinders be measured at the top, middle, and bottom in the axial and thrust directions.

Gasket surface cleaning.JPG

9. Remove the carbon, coolant residue, and gasket material from the head gasket surface.

head gasket surface.JPG

10. Check the head gasket surface for flatness. A 0.0015" feeler gauge was used.

The block seems to be in good shape! 😊
 
I couldn't find replacement oem pistons for the above-mentioned engine. Time for plan B:
turbo 2jz.jpg

Toyota had the foresight to produce a more modern turbocharged straight 6 engine with the same displacement. Next step: installing new pistons, rings, and bearings. I think I have new connecting rods too.
 
I missed a step here. Up until around post #12 you were working on a 22RTE. Then in post #14 you are pulling the head off a twin-cam straight 6. Could you fill in the gaps on what you are now working on?
 
I missed a step here. Up until around post #12 you were working on a 22RTE. Then in post #14 you are pulling the head off a twin-cam straight 6. Could you fill in the gaps on what you are now working on?
I am working on both! 😊 I have enough running vehicles for everyday driving. So, projects can be done at a leisurely pace. I am holding off on this build because I fear I may be rebuilding the transmission and differentials on a regular basis due to the output of this setup. I should get a burnout with the front and rear wheels, though! We'll see if common sense prevails. In the meantime, it makes a good coat rack. 😁 The straight 6 will get the only non-running vehicle on the road again.
22rte.jpg
 
@pappy Thank you for your astute observation. I wanted to give someone who has a project vehicle enough information to have a productive conversation with a machinist or mechanic. I started out this thread with a ready-to-build block. However, a project vehicle isn't going to come with a ready-to-build block. So, I back tracked to a poorly running vehicle to show the process of inspecting an engine. What I had available was a straight 6. Keep the insights, experiences, and questions coming! 😊
 
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I am working on both! 😊 I have enough running vehicles for everyday driving. So, projects can be done at a leisurely pace. I am holding off on this build because I fear I may be rebuilding the transmission and differentials on a regular basis due to the output of this setup. I should get a burnout with the front and rear wheels, though! We'll see if common sense prevails. In the meantime, it makes a good coat rack. 😁 The straight 6 will get the only non-running vehicle on the road again.
View attachment 3918382
So does this 22RTE become a 22RSE?
 

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