rebuild

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Finally got the head placed on the block tonight. I'm hoping to try to put the motor back in the rig this weekend.
 

cruiserdan

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It's very easy to see the bib that the PHH fits on.

I like it, the head is on the block and the block is on blocks ::)


CM, dont forget to paint the block to prevent rust from forming on that nice clean surface........... ;)

D-
 
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I thought about painting it, but wasn't sure what to use. Standard rustoleum, or something for high heat applications?

I still need to pick up an engine stand to get the oil pan, etc. in place. The heater hose is easy to get to with the intake removed. A full motor extraction is not necessary :).
 
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Eric,
I have read that there is a mysterious engine bushing (?) with an unobtainable part number that somehow gets destroyed (?) during an engine rebuild that involves boiling the block.

Did you have that issue?
-B-
 

cruiserdan

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Go to NAPA or the like and get gloss black "engine" paint and you'll be good to go. Don't get something like Plasti-kote Hi-temp paint as it has to be cured.
 
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How about a high heat in a light grey? Not stock, but a lot easier to see things - of course you will have NO leaks once it is all back together.

Jim


[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg42550#msg42550 date=1063902539]
I thought about painting it, but wasn't sure what to use. Standard rustoleum, or something for high heat applications?

I still need to pick up an engine stand to get the oil pan, etc. in place. The heater hose is easy to get to with the intake removed. A full motor extraction is not necessary :).
[/quote]
 
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Chix with bricks for blocks on blox! :D

CDan - how about marking that picture and pointing out the bib?

Jim



[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg42486#msg42486 date=1063892073]
It's very easy to see the bib that the PHH fits on.

I like it, the head is on the block and the block is on blocks ::)


CM, dont forget to paint the block to prevent rust from forming on that nice clean surface........... ;)

D-
[/quote]
 
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[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg42553#msg42553 date=1063902911]
Eric,
I have read that there is a mysterious engine bushing (?) with an unobtainable part number that somehow gets destroyed (?) during an engine rebuild that involves boiling the block.

Did you have that issue?
-B-

[/quote]
Almost. I called the shop about it, and they were able to make a tool to remove/install the bushing. It's definitely an issue. Thanks to Robbie for bringing it up. It's the timing gear bushing.
 
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I have to say that the 1FZ-FE owners are the luckiest people in the world to own these drop-dead gorgeous engines. That motor is a beautiful work of engineering and art.

Woody. :D

-B-
 
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I reluctantly checked the valve clearances tonight after swapping shims and installing new ones. One is at the tight limit on exhaust, but the rest have some margin.

Dan, I wonder if replacing the timing chain tensioner would reduce or eliminate the startup rattle.
 
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Yes that's one beauty of a motor. Do tell - what caused you to redo the head?

head gasket fail?

In the end how much do this cost you to rebuild head ect...?

R
 
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I didn't re-do the head. Machine shop rebuilt the bottom end and did a valve job on the head. #5 piston got too hot. Head gasket was in good shape.

Cost is around US$2100 for parts & labor, not including new rad and fuel pump.
 
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[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg44084#msg44084 date=1064329848]
Eric, I assume you are installed a new slipper, guide, tensioner and timing chain? Also, did you do a new oil pump? These parts are not that expensive and it is pretty easy to do them now.
[/quote]

Christo, I replaced the timing parts but not the oil pump gears nor tensioner. You're right, the oil pump gears are inexpensive. The tensioner and gears appeared to be fine, but looking back I probably should have replaced them. Not too late, of course, but I really don't feel like pulling off the timing cover again, another new head gasket, etc. Hmm, SOR shows the tensioner at $22. Maybe I'll order one from Dan.

I'm inclined to leave the PS pump alone as it was not leaking. I really like how it's driven directly off the crank rather than via belt. I will be replacing the fluid.

I'm more concerned right now about figuring out why one of my valve clearances is at the low limit when it was in the middle of the range. Perhaps the head bolt torque procedure changed the shape of the head? At least it's on the exhaust cam, which is easier to pull than intake.
 

sleeoffroad

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[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg44093#msg44093 date=1064331230]
Christo, I replaced the timing parts but not the oil pump gears nor tensioner. You're right, the oil pump gears are inexpensive. The tensioner and gears appeared to be fine, but looking back I probably should have replaced them. Not too late, of course, but I really don't feel like pulling off the timing cover again, another new head gasket, etc. Hmm, SOR shows the tensioner at $22. Maybe I'll order one from Dan.[/quote]

The pump & tensioner can go in without removing the cover. You might need the gasket for the oil pump cover. Also, the screws are a bit of a pain to get off. Also, unless you have the main pan on already, you should be able to remove the timing cover.


[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg44093#msg44093 date=1064331230]
I'm inclined to leave the PS pump alone as it was not leaking. I really like how it's driven directly off the crank rather than via belt. I will be replacing the fluid.
[/quote]

Don't. The rebuilt kit is cheap. The pump blows it seal and then pumps the fluid into the motor. It is a bitch to get off when the motor is installed. Rebuild is pretty easy. Replace all the low pressure hoses while you are at it. I know of about 5 93's that developed a pin hole in the return lines. You have easy access to all those parts now. You can use regular ATF lines and hose clamps.

[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=5390;start=msg44093#msg44093 date=1064331230]

I'm more concerned right now about figuring out why one of my valve clearances is at the low limit when it was in the middle of the range. Perhaps the head bolt torque procedure changed the shape of the head? At least it's on the exhaust cam, which is easier to pull than intake.
[/quote]

Did the shop do a valve job on the head? If so, did they remove some material from the valve stems? When we send a head to the shop, we have them set the valve clearances first. That way they can make sure to remove the correct amount from the valve stems. Then we re-set when the head is installed.
 
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CDAN

I too see many bibs....which one is the PHH bib from this perspective? ???
 

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