Rear window falling off track (1 Viewer)

[dranven]

Thanks for this thread guys. I've been putting this off too long. I used the channel lock / screwdriver method posted above and it worked great. Bent the metal on the inside of the door frame a little, but no biggie.

I did try wrapping the tools with some cloth to minimize it. It may have helped a bit for anyone else who attempts this.

 

[KC masterpiece]

Figured I would chime in as I just had to do this as a quick repair on my recently acquired LC.

Was running the driver rear window up and heard a loud pop then saw the window fall down. Ran the switch a few times and everything sounded fine so I tore into the door figuring the window had just slipped out of the regulator track after reading a few threads on it.

In my case I was able to get it reseated using some hand sanitizer as lube. Getting the window back into the rubber weatherstripping was a bit of a challenge. It looked like the rubber has shrunk a bit causing the mouth (not sure if that's the right term) to pinch shut when trying to get the window in. I was able to solve this by using a zip tie as a shim inside of the metal track and underneath the rubber. That and some quick lube on the roller fixed it right up.

Hope that trick helps someone who needs a quick gas station or trail fix.


My other discovery was that my weather barrier must have been a real whore in her youth and has clearly been penetrated a few times.

 

[CarlSeattle]

 

[graham5david]

This worked for me as well

 

[338Lapua]

So I just bought the new upper rail that the window fits into but it didn't come with the rubber for it. Is there a separate part number for the rubber?

 

[Kernal]

It's called a "Filler". Here's a few part numbers, one source says they both are for the front (69971-90D00, 69971-60020) and for the rear, 69975-60011 (might be an older number??).

I'm not a part expert, so double check with your local dealer, I just pulled those off the net.

To search most of the US online Toyota parts web sites, Year, Model, Body, then Glass, Front or Rear door.

 

[338Lapua]

It's called a "Filler". Here's a few part numbers, one source says they both are for the front (69971-90D00, 69971-60020) and for the rear, 69975-60011 (might be an older number??).

I'm not a part expert, so double check with your local dealer, I just pulled those off the net.

To search most of the US online Toyota parts web sites, Year, Model, Body, then Glass, Front or Rear door.

Thank you Exactly what i was looking for, didn't realize it would be 2 separate parts

 

[Kernal]

One filler part for each channel however I don't know if the front and rear windows use the same part (ask your local dealer). The filler slides into the channel first, then a little soapy water on the glass, then (I used) a rubber coated dead blow hammer to pound the channel with filler onto the glass while the other end of the glass was sitting on my feet (so as not to break it).
You'll be afraid you might break the glass but it does take some solid hits with the dead blow hammer to get the channel to expand and clamp onto the glass. Get one end started and the rest will be easier.

Window Glass Woes

Hey guys, Anybody know if the door glass is just "pressed" into the channel that holds it? Or should there be an adhesive applied? The glass keeps pulling out of the "holder/channel" when its cold... Due to hardened/old guides... I need new guides/channels installed to really solve my issue...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[338Lapua]

One filler part for each channel however I don't know if the front and rear windows use the same part (ask your local dealer). The filler slides into the channel first, then a little soapy water on the glass, then (I used) a rubber coated dead blow hammer to pound the channel with filler onto the glass while the other end of the glass was sitting on my feet (so as not to break it).
You'll be afraid you might break the glass but it does take some solid hits with the dead blow hammer to get the channel to expand and clamp onto it.
Get one end started and the rest will be easier.

Window Glass Woes

Hey guys, Anybody know if the door glass is just "pressed" into the channel that holds it? Or should there be an adhesive applied? The glass keeps pulling out of the "holder/channel" when its cold... Due to hardened/old guides... I need new guides/channels installed to really solve my issue...

forum.ih8mud.com

thank you for the tip !! I ordered em all just to have em !

 

[Road Apple]

Thanks for this thread and responses. Exactly what I needed. Appreciate you MUD community.

 

[Tedward]

The filler is nearly the same front and rear. One is longer because and the size of the window.

 

[COYS]

My driver side window doesn't go down as far the passenger side. When I do roll it down, I run out of the guide and the roller pops off at the end.

So to fix this, are you folks actually moving the metal bracket that attaches physically to the window so there's more guide for the roller? The glass is attached onto the metal bracket pretty darn good. Not sure why this is even happening in the first place?

Thanks!

If I roll down any lower, the green roller moves to the left and pops off.

This is where my driver side windows sits where the green roller is positioned above. It should go lower by another 4-6".

 

[KC masterpiece]

My driver side window doesn't go down as far the passenger side. When I do roll it down, I run out of the guide and the roller pops off at the end.

So to fix this, are you folks actually moving the metal bracket that attaches physically to the window so there's more guide for the roller? The glass is attached onto the metal bracket pretty darn good. Not sure why this is even happening in the first place?

Thanks!

If I roll down any lower, the green roller moves to the left and pops off.

View attachment 2509259

This is where my driver side windows sits where the green roller is positioned above. It should go lower by another 4-6".

View attachment 2509260

From what I have seen the metal piece with the rubber gasket that attaches to the window slides towards the rear over time. In my case you could clearly see where it originally lived on the window.

My passenger side is currently disabled (disconnected switch) because that bracket broke away from the window and I ruined the gasket trying to fix it. Rather than sourcing a new one I will probably silicone the window in place this summer for a permanent fix.

I got my driver side working again by re-entering the bracket on the window glass and bending the end of that channel so the roller can't work its way out.

I need to do some serious work on my windows including new runs. They are relatively useless in the winter. On the agenda for next summer.

 

[Techie]

My driver side window doesn't go down as far the passenger side. When I do roll it down, I run out of the guide and the roller pops off at the end.

So to fix this, are you folks actually moving the metal bracket that attaches physically to the window so there's more guide for the roller? The glass is attached onto the metal bracket pretty darn good. Not sure why this is even happening in the first place?

Thanks!

If I roll down any lower, the green roller moves to the left and pops off.



This is where my driver side windows sits where the green roller is positioned above. It should go lower by another 4-6".

Hi, CYKBC. Just in case you, or anyone looking at this thread, wants to see a photo, you'll need to slide the window channel (the metal bracket holding the window) and the fillar (the rubber gasket between the glass and the channel) to the side so that the window regulator wheel never gets close to (or past) the end of the channel.

That's why you'll see folks like CarlSeattle posting their methods for doing the adjustment.

 

[COYS]

Hi, CYKBC. Just in case you, or anyone looking at this thread, wants to see a photo, you'll need to slide the window channel (the metal bracket holding the window) and the fillar (the rubber gasket between the glass and the channel) to the side so that the window regulator wheel never gets close to (or past) the end of the channel.

That's why you'll see folks like CarlSeattle posting their methods for doing the adjustment.

View attachment 2527490

Bingo, thx!

I ended up doing the following:

*Apply a light application of silicon adhesive to secure the rubber/window to the metal channel as it was readily moving toward the rear with force applied by motor

*Switch window regulators side to side as the shop I hired to install new OEM motors + regulators didn't take care to discern there is L and R (my windows never went more than halfway down - perhaps this is an ingenious Toyota engineered feature)

*Applied some grease to the regulator gear teeth and roller per FSM

Having never messed with this type of stuff, it was a bit of a learning experience and deeply satisfying when I finally got it figured out with no perma-damage.

Thx, again.

 

[jomichael]

Fours years later and this post is a life saver! Hope all the advice works!

 

[leucadiacruiser]

Props to this thread - Just used the BF Screwdriver and a little muscle. Was expecting to be rained upon by tempered glass but I just felt a little budge on the regulator arm like in photos above and all good now. Thanks!

 

[LCDawg]

Like other have written thanks for putting this out there. I used a few light taps with the handle side of a hammer and was able to get the proper positioning.

 

[Augustiron]

Now that you've slid the track over and got the regulator to engage properly, now fix the problem that caused the track to move in the first place and replace the rubber channel that the window slides in up the door frame. These get hard and cause so much resistance that the motor and regulator force that metal track to slide on the window.

You can easily replace the rubber track with OEM without removing the door panel or window by lowering the window and simply lubricating and sliding the new rubber track in place.
Your windows will Go up and down easier and faster, save wear and tear on the motor and regulator, and not force the metal track out of place again.

 

[LCDawg]

Now that you've slid the track over and got the regulator to engage properly, now fix the problem that caused the track to move in the first place and replace the rubber channel that the window slides in up the door frame. These get hard and cause so much resistance that the motor and regulator force that metal track to slide on the window.

You can easily replace the rubber track with OEM without removing the door panel or window by lowering the window and simply lubricating and sliding the new rubber track in place.
Your windows will Go up and down easier and faster, save wear and tear on the motor and regulator, and not force the metal track out of place again.

Agreed replacing the door runs is the best solution. I replaced the front driver and passenger a few months ago. For the rear I haven’t received them yet so I removed the old run and cleaned it really well with warm soapy water and a toothbrush and put some silicone spray in the channel. Surprised how smooth it was once cleaned. Once the new ones come in ill load them up but this should work for the interim!