Rear window falling off track

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Yup - Have this problem on one rear window right now - happened before - years ago.
Was able to coax it back in place then - this time it will not budge! Tried everything I could think of.
Window fixed in up/closed position - motor unplugged - no workee.
Have yet to fabricate some kind of custom threaded-rod squeezer to move it.
 
Had the same problem with bot my rear windows. I tried a lot of these suggestions but I managed to get a short quick grip clamp inside the door and squeeze it into place. Worked beautifully!
 
I don't see anyone posting the correct placement from the FSM, so here it is:

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Your channel is likely rusted and the rubber filler is very degraded. It's well worth replacing them every quarter decade. I tried all the hacks to keep the windows in the channels and the channels aligned, but in the end it's easier just to pull the glass and replace the channel and filler.
 
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...and you actually have to follow the FSM for replacement. You have to beat it with a rubber mallet.
 
I cant seem to get the window securely in the track/rubber filler. Try a little windex? Any tricks? Wont budget and seat correctly.
 
Dawn dish soap in a spray bottle of water, spray on glass before attempting to hammer the filler and channel over the glass.

I placed the glass upside down on my shoes while standing (in them) then positioned the channel with filler where I wanted it and struck the channel firmly at one end with a rubber coated dead blow hammer. Once you get one end started the rest will pop onto the glass easier with a few more hits of the rubber coated dead blow.

Think of the channel like a metal spring clamp (which it is, sorta), it needs to be forced open so it can clamp onto the glass, it takes some firm hits (with a rubber coated dead blow for example) to force the channel open.

To find the location where the channel should be located you can look for a line left on the glass where the channel used to be. IME that line is hard to clean off so should still be there if you look closely. To be sure measure to double check for the correct location.
 
Kernal said:
Dawn dish soap in a spray bottle of water, spray on glass before attempting to hammer the filler and channel over the glass.

I placed the glass upside down on my shoes while standing (in them) then positioned the channel with filler where I wanted it and struck the channel firmly at one end with a rubber coated dead blow hammer. Once you get one end started the rest will pop onto the glass easier with a few more hits of the rubber coated dead blow.

Think of the channel like a metal spring clamp (which it is, sorta), it needs to be forced open so it can clamp onto the glass, it takes some firm hits (with a rubber coated dead blow for example) to force the channel open.

To find the location where the channel should be located you can look for a line left on the glass where the channel used to be. IME that line is hard to clean off so should still be there if you look closely. To be sure measure to double check for the correct location.
Click to expand...
You took the entire piece of glass out of the door? I was trying to do it through the door hole with the panel off
 
HankMoody said:
You took the entire piece of glass out of the door? I was trying to do it through the door hole with the panel off
Click to expand...
That won't work. You have to use the procedure in the FSM. See post #43.

Don't be afraid for the glass, it won't break.

I put a moving blanket on the tailgate and laid the channel on that. I used a rubber mallet instead of a plastic one, because I don't have a plastic one.

Whatever you do, don't use a claw hammer. They are for nails.
 
Malleus said:
That won't work. You have to use the procedure in the FSM. See post #43.

Don't be afraid for the glass, it won't break.

I put a moving blanket on the tailgate and laid the channel on that. I used a rubber mallet instead of a plastic one, because I don't have a plastic one.

Whatever you do, don't use a claw hammer. They are for nails.
Click to expand...
Will try this weekend, thank you!
 
gummycarbs said:
I don't see anyone posting the correct placement from the FSM, so here it is:

View attachment 3418895
Click to expand...
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I'm looking at this same image in my 1994 Service Manual, but I'm struggling to see how it could work.

The right edge of the blue tape marks the 7" spot, but this moves the roller to the left when the roller was already falling off the right. It also doesn't fit in with the shape of the glass.

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To keep the roller from falling out of the track I need to move it all to the right, to the 9 1/4" spot, as shown here:

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This fits with the shape of the glass and aligns with a small vertical line left over from where the old rubber filler was, and moves the track to the right.

This image shows the original problem, where the wheel was coming out the right side of the track after the track appears to have slid left over the rubber. Moving the track 2" left to the specified position clearly wouldn't work. Is the service manual wrong? Am I missing something?

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tech_dog said:
View attachment 4027712

I'm looking at this same image in my 1994 Service Manual, but I'm struggling to see how it could work.

The right edge of the blue tape marks the 7" spot, but this moves the roller to the left when the roller was already falling off the right. It also doesn't fit in with the shape of the glass.

View attachment 4027699

To keep the roller from falling out of the track I need to move it all to the right, to the 9 1/4" spot, as shown here:

View attachment 4027702

This fits with the shape of the glass and aligns with a small vertical line left over from where the old rubber gasket was, and moves the track to the right.

This image shows the original problem, where the wheel was coming out the right side of the track after the track appears to have slid left over the rubber. Moving the track 2" left to the specified position clearly wouldn't work. Is the service manual wrong? Am I missing something?

View attachment 4027705
Click to expand...
I just rolled the window down to the point where the roller fell out, measured how far it fell out at it's widest and marked the window as where to locate the darn thing. Which turned out to be right where the original rubber was located. Anotherwords, the metal shifted, not the rubber. Haven't had an issue since.
 
jomichael said:
I just rolled the window down to the point where the roller fell out, measured how far it fell out at it's widest and marked the window as where to locate the darn thing. Which turned out to be right where the original rubber was located. Anotherwords, the metal shifted, not the rubber. Haven't had an issue since.
Click to expand...

I found another thread where someone came to the same conclusion. The FSM measurement of 7" from the leading edge is incorrect. I just installed mine with 9-1/4" from the leading edge and the window is working as it should.

This happened on both my rear doors, the metal track sliding as the rubber stayed put, so it must be pretty common. On the other side I was able to tap the track sideways back into position. This side wouldn't budge, and I had to remove and replace the channel and filler.
 
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