Rear Wheel Bearings

[montocr]

100 series regear

The only thing that bothered me was the comment by John:

"I persoanlly would not take the chance with my current 100 to swap the parts."

I think that this sounds like you are warning people that one would be taking a big risk by doing the swap. What about taking the chance to run oversized tires, or to run a heavier bumper, or to run super duper long travel N74L hardcore 80 series aftermarket, retrofitted, upgraded, offroad ready, rock crawlin' rear shock mods.
That would be like saying the N74L is designed for an 80 series for a reason and should not be used on a hardcore offroad machine like a 100 series.

As aforementioned, in the differential world, it is nearly as common to have a carrier swap required to change ratio, as it is to not change the carrier. Fact of the matter is that I have put 25,000 miles on mine since the mod. that include commuting, 4wheeling, etc and a fair amount towing my 5500 lb boat w/ 4 adults and camping gear over steep mountain passes.

 

[dclee]

The only thing that bothered me was the comment by John:

If you read the 100 threads for long, you'll find many examples of this kind of circular logic. Sometimes (OK, a lot!) it bothers me as well and I post up. Sometimes I don't. Depends on the time of the month, I guess...

However, to your specific point, I think you make perfect sense. IMHO the strain of huge tires on your driveline is far worse for your truck than what Christo has proposed with the carrier swap. In fact, that swap would probably help your vehicle in the long run, as it would allow you to return the gearing to essentially stock and not have to rev the engine so much to get into its powerband. Also, correct me Christo (and others) if I am wrong, but the ARB carrier is actually stronger than the stock Toyota carrier, so you are actually strengthening the overall assembly, NOT weakening it! And, the added benefit, since according to John he can already blow away supercharged 80s with his stock 2UZ-FE and 35" tires: the re-gear will allow him to take on Corvettes and eat them for lunch!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

The only thing that bothered me was the comment by John:

"I persoanlly would not take the chance with my current 100 to swap the parts."

I think that this sounds like you are warning people that one would be taking a big risk by doing the swap. What about taking the chance to run oversized tires, or to run a heavier bumper, or to run super duper long travel N74L hardcore 80 series aftermarket, retrofitted, upgraded, offroad ready, rock crawlin' rear shock mods.
That would be like saying the N74L is designed for an 80 series for a reason and should not be used on a hardcore offroad machine like a 100 series.

As aforementioned, in the differential world, it is nearly as common to have a carrier swap required to change ratio, as it is to not change the carrier. Fact of the matter is that I have put 25,000 miles on mine since the mod. that include commuting, 4wheeling, etc and a fair amount towing my 5500 lb boat w/ 4 adults and camping gear over steep mountain passes.

People don't always read ALL of my writing. But I'll say again.....my 100 is was "done" when this 4.88 swap came along. I've been won over by the strength of the swap. IF this was known WHEN I had my truck torn apart to add ARB's, of course I would have done the mod/gears. At this point, as I said, I don't need them, the truck has plenty of power and to pay all that dough NOW, just add crawl ratio (the power change is not needed for ME) doesn't make sense. Plus there's added risk by having torn apart again. It all works perfectly now. My goal back then was another 80, and I got an LX.

My next goal WAS a 2nd 100 which I would re-gear to 4.88. That project has been extended. I bought a 2006 Mazda Rx8 GT Saturday. Now, I need to find a lift for it.

Oh, and I'm glad you understand how super those N74L's are.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

blow away supercharged 80s with his stock 2UZ-FE and 35" tires: the re-gear will allow him to take on Corvettes and eat them for lunch!

Yes. And my new Rx8.


HEY...SERIOUSLY.....speaking of rear-end bearings. We noticed yesterday the drivers rear bearig cap (?) is leaking grease and it's spewing onto my chrome wheel. We looked at the pass side and it appears someone siliconed (or something) the cap onto the axle.

What's the best way for me to fix this driver's side leak? I'm guessing there's an o-ring inside the cap? What else should I do while in there?

Thanks!

John Circular Shotts

 

[dclee]

HEY...SERIOUSLY.....speaking of rear-end bearings. We noticed yesterday the drivers rear bearig cap (?) is leaking grease and it's spewing onto my chrome wheel. We looked at the pass side and it appears someone siliconed (or something) the cap onto the axle.

What's the best way for me to fix this driver's side leak? I'm guessing there's an o-ring inside the cap? What else should I do while in there?

I believe there is an outer axle seal there. Is it still there, or is it damaged ? Only reason I can think of as to why someone would have used silicone is because the seal was toast and they couldn't be bothered to replace it. No o-rings.

If you're going in, at least a wheel bearing repack would be nice. Since it's the rear, once you do that and replace all the seals, you shouldn't have to worry about it for a LONG time. Rears are easy, do both sides and be done with it.

(BTW, since you said chrome wheel, I assumed you were talking about the Lexus 80 Series, as I didn't think you had chrome on the 100. If not, then ignore what I said, as I've never taken apart a weak-ass rear semi-floater on a 100... )

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I believe there is an outer axle seal there. Is it still there, or is it damaged ? Only reason I can think of as to why someone would have used silicone is because the seal was toast and they couldn't be bothered to replace it. No o-rings.

If you're going in, at least a wheel bearing repack would be nice. Since it's the rear, once you do that and replace all the seals, you shouldn't have to worry about it for a LONG time. Rears are easy, do both sides and be done with it.

(BTW, since you said chrome wheel, I assumed you were talking about the Lexus 80 Series, as I didn't think you had chrome on the 100. If not, then ignore what I said, as I've never taken apart a weak-ass rear semi-floater on a 100... )

Ya, those semi floaters are week asses. This is my LX with the ugly rims (which will go when the truck is completely finished (close).

OK, I'll get the kit and have my dude rebuild the rears. Does it take any special tools to do that? (To remove the bearings, etc)

 

[dclee]

Ya, those semi floaters are week asses. This is my LX with the ugly rims (which will go when the truck is completely finished (close).

OK, I'll get the kit and have my dude rebuild the rears. Does it take any special tools to do that? (To remove the bearings, etc)

The only thing you might possibly need is the special driver for the rear lock nut, it's got prongs that fit into holes on the nut (you'll see what I mean once you start taking it apart), but some people fudge it with a punch and a hammer, or (gasp!) a screwdriver and a hammer!

If you're paying a pro to do this, I'd recommend you make sure he uses the correct SSTs. Afterall, that's part of what you're paying him for.

HTH,

 

[sleeoffroad]

So this is on the LX450?

You did not do a rear axle service while they were regearing?

They probably tore the paper gasket when the removed the axles to regear, did not have it, slapped some silicone on it and called it good.

The inner axle seal is probably leaking. Fix ASAP. otherwise the goop will run onto your emergency brake shoes and then you end up buying those as well. Need to repack the bearings, replace inner axle seal as well as hub seal.

 

[lowtideride]

Shotts....why don't you try working on your own stuff instead of having some "dude" do it for you? You might learn more...

Also...have you ever broken anything on the 100 or 80 worth typing about? reason I ask is because you always say crap about how this is better than that, I just dont get it?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Shotts....why don't you try working on your own stuff instead of having some "dude" do it for you? You might learn more...

Also...have you ever broken anything on the 100 or 80 worth typing about? reason I ask is because you always say crap about how this is better than that, I just dont get it?

Because I have a handicap. Severe tendonitis. Is that a good enough reason? And a.....no "dude" did my ARB lockers by the way.

You can always put my on your ignore list.

Are you having a bad day?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

So this is on the LX450?

You did not do a rear axle service while they were regearing?

They probably tore the paper gasket when the removed the axles to regear, did not have it, slapped some silicone on it and called it good.

The inner axle seal is probably leaking. Fix ASAP. otherwise the goop will run onto your emergency brake shoes and then you end up buying those as well. Need to repack the bearings, replace inner axle seal as well as hub seal.

10-4 Makes sense. And yes....they weren't leaking before the re-gear. Good information! Gracias.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

So this is on the LX450?

You did not do a rear axle service while they were regearing?

They probably tore the paper gasket when the removed the axles to regear, did not have it, slapped some silicone on it and called it good.

The inner axle seal is probably leaking. Fix ASAP. otherwise the goop will run onto your emergency brake shoes and then you end up buying those as well. Need to repack the bearings, replace inner axle seal as well as hub seal.

What's the "average" cost to do what you say Mr. Slee? Reapack...new rear seals, etc? THANKS!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

So this is on the LX450?

You did not do a rear axle service while they were regearing?

They probably tore the paper gasket when the removed the axles to regear, did not have it, slapped some silicone on it and called it good.

The inner axle seal is probably leaking. Fix ASAP. otherwise the goop will run onto your emergency brake shoes and then you end up buying those as well. Need to repack the bearings, replace inner axle seal as well as hub seal.

WAIT....A THOUGHT....The leak did stop after a road trip. It doesn't leak anymore. This tells me that the inner seal is good and that the only oil I lost for that short time (about 500 miles) was between the seal and the outside, due to the bad paper seal they should have replaced.

IF the inner seal was bad it wouldn't stop leaking until all my fluid was gone. Right? I only have 115K on it.

 

[dclee]

WAIT....A THOUGHT....The leak did stop after a road trip. It doesn't leak anymore. This tells me that the inner seal is good and that the only oil I lost for that short time (about 500 miles) was between the seal and the outside, due to the bad paper seal they should have replaced.

IF the inner seal was bad it wouldn't stop leaking until all my fluid was gone. Right? I only have 115K on it.

Easiest thing, pull the diff plug and check the fluid level. Go from there.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Easiest thing, pull the diff plug and check the fluid level. Go from there.

You'd think even I'd think of that? (Well...most wouldn't figure I'd think of it)

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

No-The 100 has a semi float rear axle so no greasing/repack needed.

Anyone know why Toyota stepped back from the full float on the 80? Was it just a financial decision?

Well....since several of you schooled me on this thread, how about providing more schooling?

My driver's side rear axle seal is leaking badly after that wild run 10 days ago. So obviously I need to replace it...both sides actually.

DREW: You comments about about no repack/regrease on the 100? When I'm in there swapping the oil seals is there anything else I should do/buy while I'm there. 110K. Should I buy new bearings? As usual, I have no clue.

 

[spressomon]

Well....since several of you schooled me on this thread, how about providing more schooling?

My driver's side rear axle seal is leaking badly after that wild run 10 days ago. So obviously I need to replace it...both sides actually.

DREW: You comments about about no repack/regrease on the 100? When I'm in there swapping the oil seals is there anything else I should do/buy while I'm there. 110K. Should I buy new bearings? As usual, I have no clue.

Replacing the rear axle bearings on the 100 is probably best left for a shop experienced in grinding the bearing retainer from the axle housing and pressing back on. However it might be prudent, depending upon how many miles and what type of miles (submerged, etc.) the rig/bearings have been subjected to...to go ahead and have them replaced (removing the axle is about a to job)...then you can just take the axles to a shop to have the bearings removed/pressed on. I am making an assumption that your 2000+ is the same axle/bearing design as my '99.

 

[Jim_Chow]

On my old 4runner, the sealed rear axle bearing was around $40 each, plus about $32 for the retainer, then there's an inner rubber o-ring and the axle seal. You need to press or grind off the retainer, press off the old bearing. The retainer can't be reused w/o risk of you losing your rear axle while driving! I was planning to have it done (rear bearings have play at 20 yrs, 197K mi), but backed off after I found out another guy w/ a similar aged 4runner had 276K mi on his original bearings and was running 33's. I think the bearings leak grease as they develop play, as my diff oil always comes out greenish (grease mixing w/ the oil, noticed it was doing this 60Kmi ago after the diff was replaced). So as they get old, I guess the gear oil is really providing the lubrication?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Thanks for your opinions. I'd like to swap the bearings and stuff all out based on your comments. I'll compare pricing on that to doing the seals only. I'm guessing it'll be quite a difference. We shall see.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Well...got the scoop. You experts were right on!

I found out that the 100 is setup like the Tundra and Runner. It has a retainer for the bearing. John Hocker said it was beefed up compared to the Runner and even the Tundra. So, that's good news.

The bad news? It has oil seals on both sides of the bearing. To replace even the outer one (mine that's leaking) you must remove the retainer, grind, etc. BOO!

So, the bottom line is....since ya gotta remove the retainer you might as well replace the bearing too along with the other oil seal and parts. He's sending it all to me.

Any idea on labor time? I don't want to get screwed by my dealer.