Rear Wheel Bearings

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anybody would care to post the FSM recommendations on R&R of the rear bearings for Mike?
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
More splines, thicker and larger gears. Guess is to accomodate the added torque and power of the V8? This is why I'll not do the 80 pumpkin swap in my 100.

Hey, it is beat on John day.

Again, Incorrect information. Don't post what you do not know about. In a court of law, I believe it is called Hearsay. I am not a laywer, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn. :D

Does this seem like Deja-Vu.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=3922&highlight=4.88+gears

ShottsUZJ100 said:
More splines

a) The ring and pinion does not have splines.
Answer: The side gears in the differential on the 100 is 32 spline. So when you do the pumpkin swap that you talk about, the side gears for the 100 are retained otherwise you can get the axles back in.

ShottsUZJ100 said:
thicker and larger gears

b) The base of the ring gear is thicker. The ring gear is bolted on with just bolts, and not nuts and bolts as the 80. Debatable what is stronger. They are not larger. There is a small difference in contact area.

ShottsUZJ100 said:
This is why I'll not do the 80 pumpkin swap in my 100.

It is not a pumpkin swap. It is a carrier swap, which when you run an ARB is trivial since you the 80 and 100 ARB carrier is virtually the same thing.


ShottsUZJ100 said:
Others have taken the 100 ARB locker and 80 pumpkin and gears and made a usable 4.88 rear gear set. (Slee)

Again totally not right. We took a 80 housing (the thing that the carrier fits in), used a 80 series ARB with 100 series ARB side gears inside and used a 80 series ring and pinion.

So John, when you post, please do not post BS. A pumkin is a collection of parts, and if you do not understand what was changed, don't shoot down our mods, because even my wife knows it drives better with the 80 pumkin :D :D:D:D:D:D

I suggested you do this a while back due to your 100s weight. Nobody has had breakage or negative issues.

I will do this pumpkin swap on my next 100 that'll I'll build for the dedicated trail. You know I bought a LX450, right? I luv the 4.88's in it! Wish you and your family well!

Picture of gear sets.

attachment.php

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=386082&postcount=18
 
The semi-floaters last longer than you think. My 86 has 195K mi while I know a guy w/ a 89 4runner w/ over 375K mi on the original SF. So the upside is half the bearing maintenance, but the downside is the bearings develop play over time, and you can certainly feel it when turning. In this respect, I'd prefer the FF since I can adjust the bearings each time and replace them if necessary (w/ the SF, you need to press on retainers, etc.). OTOH, I'm not sure one can get a FF LC axle assembly w/ rear discs that'll fit the 100. A lot of the 105's came w/ rear drums. The HZJ74/76 model ZX sold in Japan had rear discs and I think was FF (also had a live front axle, fr/rr diff locks), but might be too narrow for the 100. It also used rear leaf springs.
 
Slee --- 2

Shotts -- 0


:grinpimp:


Now we just need a visit from ATS 4x4.......


And here's a constructive comment---I think the new chrome moly axles from Poly Performance will change the way people think about the semi-float axles, and cruiser axles in general. You 100 guys should try and get them to make some for your trucks. I just installed a set in my 40 and the fit finish and reported strength upgrade is outstanding. The real advantage to the full float is the ability to drive (or be towed) with a broken axle shaft. That isn't really an option with a semifloat.
 
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sleeoffroad said:
Hey, it is beat on John day.

Again, Incorrect information. Don't post what you do not know about. In a court of law, I believe it is called Hearsay. I am not a laywer, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn. :D

Does this seem like Deja-Vu.


a) The ring and pinion does not have splines.
Answer: The side gears in the differential on the 100 is 32 spline. So when you do the pumpkin swap that you talk about, the side gears for the 100 are retained otherwise you can get the axles back in.



b) The base of the ring gear is thicker. The ring gear is bolted on with just bolts, and not nuts and bolts as the 80. Debatable what is stronger. They are not larger. There is a small difference in contact area.



It is not a pumpkin swap. It is a carrier swap, which when you run an ARB is trivial since you the 80 and 100 ARB carrier is virtually the same thing.




Again totally not right. We took a 80 housing (the thing that the carrier fits in), used a 80 series ARB with 100 series ARB side gears inside and used a 80 series ring and pinion.

So John, when you post, please do not post BS. A pumkin is a collection of parts, and if you do not understand what was changed, don't shoot down our mods, because even my wife knows it drives better with the 80 pumkin :D :D:D:D:D:D



Picture of gear sets.

attachment.php

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=386082&postcount=18

Whatever...and what a waste of your time to spell this out here. Doron does all his own work and understands all this better than me. I gave him a quck answer and pointed out that there are no problems with the swap. If he's interested he'd research the old thread and learn all the details. Or, I could have looked it up for him.

I simply re-informed him that there is an option for him to regear. His evpo truck is heavy and he wants gears. Ya can bite me. :D

And no, it's not deja vu about strength and gears and all that. In those threads I said that I believe the experts regarding strength and reliability of the parts and the swap. I pointed out that I persoanlly would not take the chance with my current 100 to swap the parts.

Shotts = Bite me x2
Slee = Not biting x0 :D
 
sleeoffroad said:
don't shoot down our mods

I'm very surprised you wrote this. I missed this on the first go around. This is crap and you know it. If "I shoot the mod" down why would I recommend the mod to a good friend and say I'll be doing it to my next UZJ? :confused:
 
HA . . . you guys are great. I love this forum. John, I think you have a great sense of humor about all of this. Slee, you are certainly right. This is like my good group of friends here in Virginia. We all have different personalities, which makes it fun.

By the way . . . Jeeps rule! !:-)!
 
So let me see if I understand this thread comparing FF to SF LC rear axles? Both the SF on the 100 and FF on the 80 are over kill for what the majority of owners will encounter? But the 100 requires less maintance, so for the majority of LC owners the SF is a improvement? Since it cuts down on maintance expense. Just wondering how many have heard about 100's with broken rear axles? Is it a problem?
 
Originally Posted by sleeoffroad
don't shoot down our mods

ShottsUZJ100 said:
I'm very surprised you wrote this. I missed this on the first go around. This is crap and you know it. If "I shoot the mod" down why would I recommend the mod to a good friend and say I'll be doing it to my next UZJ? :confused:

Hey, you missed the smileys in the quote :D

Well, you did write

More splines, thicker and larger gears. Guess is to accomodate the added torque and power of the V8? This is why I'll not do the 80 pumpkin swap in my 100.


and all I did was point out that your decision to not do it is based on false assumptions. Other people might read that and say, "Hey, Shotts does not endorse it since it is weaker" So indirectly you did shoot down the mod.


Sorry for the Hijaak.

Back on topic. I think it is also important to talk about C clip semi floaters vs non-C Clip semi floaters. The C Clip design is the one where the axle will walk out when the axle is broken. I hate that one.

The 100 does not use this. It is the same as the minitrucks. The axle will not walk out, but the wheel will wobble.

What would I rather have. Not sure. The Semi floater axles are stronger The semi floater also does not have the same habit as the full floater to loosen the hub studs and shear the studs and dowels. The semi floater is also much simpler and less parts than the full floater. A lot of minitruck guys run 40's on the minitruck semi floater axles with minimal breakage.

But, they are not 1000 miles out in the outback and if they do break, they can limp back to the trailer. With a full floater, at least you can pull the axle and still drive. Carrying a spare is also easier since it is smaller.

However it is not always so easy to get the broken piece out of the housing. The piece on the flange is easy, it is the piece that remains in the axle that is the problem.

The 100 series 32 spline rear axle is pretty strong. Catch is that it uses the same s***ty design e-locker setup as the 80. Again this week I had to cut a e-locker mechanism apart to get the axle shafts out. This is not a problem for most people, but if you wheel hard with 35" tires, you are going to experience this sometime.

I am pulling all the rear e-lockers I have in my hardcore trucks and replacing with ARB's. Some e-lockers with 5.29 gears will be for sale soon.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I said:

"Any reason Toyota spent more money enlarging the rear axle shafts and R&P?"

That is a true statement. That's all I said. And again...this was between Drew and me and he knew it. Nobody's debating anything. And yes, I know you ave a 2004. Now go build that thing and wheel in comfort!

Just read that as well. Axle shafts are larger, R&P not, just a different design. Ring gear bolts on with just bolts on the 100. 80 Series uses bolts and nuts. Maybe the nuts came loose? Maybe it was a cost saving. Who knows.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Whatever...and what a waste of your time to spell this out here. Doron does all his own work and understands all this better than me. I gave him a quck answer and pointed out that there are no problems with the swap. If he's interested he'd research the old thread and learn all the details. Or, I could have looked it up for him.

I simply re-informed him that there is an option for him to regear. His evpo truck is heavy and he wants gears. Ya can bite me. :

And no, it's not deja vu about strength and gears and all that. In those threads I said that I believe the experts regarding strength and reliability of the parts and the swap. I pointed out that I persoanlly would not take the chance with my current 100 to swap the parts.

Shotts = Bite me x2
Slee = Not biting x0 :D

Spin Spin Spin. Why is it a waste of time to point out that you posted the incorrect information. OK, I see, because I had to do it twice. :D

In short, yes you said Doron should do it, but you would not because it is weaker based on your assumptions on the parts being replaced. Simply wrong.

As Carl from Rady's pointed out as well. A carrier swap is a common thing in the Dana world. We are just not used to it in the Toyota world. There is not reasons anymore (except $'s) why someone can not regear his 100 series.

The fact of the matter is that even if we had 100 series gears made, their cost might even be higher than the additional cost of doing this regearing.
 
sleeoffroad said:
In short, yes you said Doron should do it, but you would not because it is weaker based on your assumptions on the parts being replaced. Simply wrong.

OK...one more time Mr. Slee Off-Road. :D

I said I WOULD do the mod and even said it in this thread! Your memory is stuck on my first discussions about this. I've said before I've been "won over" by you and Carl, etc.

I explained that my existing 100 is "done" and it's not worth re-gearing and/or messing with a good thing.

When I get a 2nd 100 and ARB-it-up, I'll do the mod.

OK.....will I have to say this again? :D
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
OK...one more time Mr. Slee Off-Road. :D

I said I WOULD do the mod and even said it in this thread! Your memory is stuck on my first discussions about this. I've said before I've been "won over" by you and Carl, etc.

I explained that my existing 100 is "done" and it's not worth re-gearing and/or messing with a good thing.

When I get a 2nd 100 and ARB-it-up, I'll do the mod.

OK.....will I have to say this again? :D

My mind is stuck on correcting the incorrect information.
 
thanks to Christo for injecting back some good tech stuff in a degenerating thread...!
can we stick to the real topic, here, please, and leave the personal stuff for PMs? thanks... :)
 
The original topic was about repacking the rear wheel bearings, but hey, I've had much more fun reading all these post. You guys are too funny and I really enjoy your enthusiam and expertise.
 
Bwahaha!!!! Good job for putting up with all this crap Mike! Wish I could give you some help on the original question. Maybe it will veer back on topic. :D
 
Sealed bearings can be repacked. Though I more often find myself repacking the new bearing that is going into service, rather than R&R'ing the same unit just to do it. The work required to perform the procedure on a large axle may be more hassle than it is worth.... how much do the rear bearings cost on a semi float 100 series axle? If they are quite expensive, it could be worth it. A nice high quality synthetic grease helps a semi float bearing last even longer...
 
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