Rear Shocks with 22MM Flex Head Wrench

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Emcd

10 Year
Joined
Mar 20, 2015
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63
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526
I'm dropping in my 1.5" springs and R&R all my shocks. For the rears, does anyone have any pictures or tips on using the 22M Flex head wrench? For the fronts, do i need to remove just the plastic belly pan? Or, does the metal front pan have to come off?
 
I did the fronts without removing anything.

For the rears my tip is to use a chain wrench or strap wrench to help. Leverage is not the best especially on passenger side with the fat muffler in the way. The flex head helps get a good angle on the top nut. Once you get there it will be obvious.

Not difficult really just a little blind for the rear shock upper nut.
 
Sweet. Did you put it on floor jacks for the fronts? If so, where did you place them? Did you leave the wheels on?
 
I put it on floor jacks for the fronts. Removing wheels are not required but would give you more room to work with. I then used my hydraulic jack I keep in my garage to slightly raise the lower control arm (1-2") in order to let the stress off of the shock. Not sure if this step was necessary but it made sense in my mind. I replaced with OEM.
 
I was thinking of pulling the tires since this is my first Attempt. Did you place the stands behind the LCA on the frame rail?
 
Yes, behind the lower control arm resting on the frame @Emcd
 
Thanks. I printed all the documents off, but I want to make sure. I'd hate to get 1/2 through and be missing a tool, job step, or new part. As always, thanks for the help and sage advice.
 
The best advice I could give you is make sure to use penetrating fluid liberally. Especially for the bolts on the passenger side as that is where the a/c condensate drips. The last thing you want to do is snap a bolt when you only have half the job done.
 
Kroil is by far the best penetrating oil I've found. Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

Saved a ton of aggravation. You could always do a body lift first, :beer:, then you can access the rear nuts through the wheel wells.
 
i sprayed the shock nuts and TB's a few weeks ago. i'll go over them again today. My plan is to attack the job on Saturday mid afternoon when it warms up.
 
Emcd said:
i sprayed the shock nuts and TB's a few weeks ago. i'll go over them again today. My plan is to attack the job on Saturday mid afternoon when it warms up.
Click to expand...
Drop the spare tire for more room, makes a huge difference in elbow room.
 
This may help: YotaMD.com - Toyota - UZJ100 Land Cruiser - Rear Shocks

I used a cheap vice grip and a fixed wrench. It's tight and awkward, but plenty doable. Just don't do anything crazy like cut a hole in your floor to access it unless you have an ungodly amount of corrosion.

Good luck!
 
I removed the spare and it give me much more room. i tried to get around the top shock nut and it free spun on the 22MM wrench. I stepped down to a 17MM and it fit. As far as i know, the shocks are original. Did 1998's come with 17MM top shock nuts? the nuts on the sway bar popped off easily. the bottom rear shock bolts must have been tightend by superman. I'll need a breaker bar to loosen them up. do i need to remove any of the ABS or parking brake lines? or, am i ok leaving everything where they are?
 
cool. i have a 3 ft breaker bar that i'll use. should i loosen the bottom bolts first, then the tops?
 
Well, good old UPS lost my McMaster clamps. They said they delivered, but no clamps. So, can I do all my shocks and rear springs and leave it at a stink bug stance? As long as I don't adjust the TBs, I'm good, right? It might look stupid, but I need to get this job done and I can wait until my trip is over before cranking the TBs.
 
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