Rear Rotors and brake pads. Easy"ish" job or ? (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 6, 2020
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Vancouver, Canada
Hey legends,

Wifey needs new rotors and brake pads on her 2014 LX...which is still running the original at 51,000kms.

I thought of buying this thing on Amazon:
Autospecialty KOE3073 1-Click OE Replacement Brake Kit

And then just giving it a whirl. Never done this before....best to leave it to the pro's or try and impress the wife?
 
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
44
Location
Vancouver, Canada
Thanks yea I watched that video already. The guys voice almost gives me the confidence to build a landcruiser from scratch...

Any recommendation for sourcing (in Canada) the stock OEM rotors and pads? I think the Amazon "Autospecialty" brand is made by "Power Stop" which seem somewhat decent.

Don't need anything fancy. The wife mainly uses the brakes on her 17-point parallel park jobs...
 

CharlieS

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Feb 4, 2005
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I'd buy Toyota parts, they're reasonably priced. The rears are pretty straightforward. The only slightly tricky bit is the star adjuster for the emergency brake.
 

empty80

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Sep 18, 2016
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ABQ, NM
Thanks yea I watched that video already. The guys voice almost gives me the confidence to build a landcruiser from scratch...

Any recommendation for sourcing (in Canada) the stock OEM rotors and pads? I think the Amazon "Autospecialty" brand is made by "Power Stop" which seem somewhat decent.

Don't need anything fancy. The wife mainly uses the brakes on her 17-point parallel park jobs...
Toyotapartsdirect.ca if you can’t source them from a local dealer?
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
164
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SLC
 
 
Any recommendation for sourcing (in Canada) the stock OEM rotors and pads? I think the Amazon "Autospecialty" brand is made by "Power Stop" which seem somewhat decent.
A lot of people have used Powerstop just fine, but I've had nothing but bad luck and bad customer support from them. I stick to the Centric premium rotors and whatever pads they bundle with them and have never had an issue.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2019
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896
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Florida
Many shops will get the rotors turned before they install them, so you may want to do that instead of just installing them. Easy to do drop them off at the local machine shop and pick them up several hours later.

Why would you need both the rotors and pads replaced at only 31,000 miles? The pads yes, but the rotors should last way longer than that. Some exception like San Fran.

You may want to just buy new pads and get the rotors turned?

IMHO Power stop is on the cheep low quality end of brake parts. I would rather put a more quality part on that lasts longer.
 

bloc

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Turning rotors removes metal that helps the brakes resist getting so hot in the first place. If new rotors are cheap enough just replace them. New OEM can be had for $52 each and are about as high quality as you will find anywhere. Turning them usually costs half that.. and you get a used part with some of its mass removed.
 
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Jan 23, 2019
Messages
896
Location
Florida
Turning rotors removes metal that helps the brakes resist getting so hot in the first place. If new rotors are cheap enough just replace them. New OEM can be had for $52 each and are about as high quality as you will find anywhere. Turning them usually costs half that.. and you get a used part with some of its mass removed.

That near a totally false and very misleading.

first price .. which is higher in CA


Disc Brake Rotor (Rear)

Stock Code 424310E020
Price: $115.70
Notes: Brake. Rotor. DISC,.
A single disc brake rotor. Exc.Japan Built. (...)
Additional Images:


Not all OEM are shipped true, and they are turned new to ensure they are true. Very little material is normally removed.

You statement would be true only if some moron turned the rotors and removed too much material.

Normally it is $15 to turn a rotor.

Just saying.
 
Last edited:

bloc

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Sep 19, 2008
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Central Texas
 
 
That near a totally false and very misleading.

first price .. which is higher in CA


Disc Brake Rotor (Rear)

Stock Code 424310E020
Price: $115.70
Notes: Brake. Rotor. DISC,.
A single disc brake rotor. Exc.Japan Built. (...)
Additional Images:


Not all OEM are shipped true, and they are turned new to ensure they are true. Very little material is normally removed.

You statement would be true only if some moron turned the rotors and removed too much material.

Normally it is $15 to turn a rotor.

Just saying.
Anyone paying $115 for those is paying almost double what they should.


$65.33 each

My $52 number was for front rotors, so that's my mistake.

In my area rotor maching costs $25. or did back when I used to bother with it.

I have installed a few dozen factory toyota rotors on my and my family/friends vehicles over the years and have never found one that needed turning when new. Toyota factory parts are among the highest quality stuff made.. needing to turn a brand new rotor on any vehicle is unacceptable, from toyota I'd consider it near impossible. Note that I don't include aftermarket rotors with sloppily applied anti-rust paint or coatings on the hat surfaces.. these may not be uniform thickness and can make a true rotor seem out of true because they don't sit fully perpendicular to the hub face. This is my primary complaint about the EBC and zimmerman rotors I often put on german cars.

Depending on how bad the USED rotors are, a significant amount of material may need to be removed. ANY material removed reduces the total mass of the rotor, and it is that mass of steel that acts like a heat sink for typical street driven vehicle use.. that is, start relatively cold, and don't get too hot when you hit the brakes to stop from speed. The more mass there, the less a given brake application will raise the average temp of that mass.

OEM rotors are CHEAP, especially when considering the level of quality, and absolutely worth considering replacing them vs machining used rusty rotors. I stand by my statements.
 

Markuson

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San Diego via all over-
 
 
Turning rotors removes metal that helps the brakes resist getting so hot in the first place. If new rotors are cheap enough just replace them. New OEM can be had for $52 each and are about as high quality as you will find anywhere. Turning them usually costs half that.. and you get a used part with some of its mass removed.
As recent proof of what bloc said... IJust installed OEM rotors all four corner about 6 months ago, and they were perfectly surfaced out of the box...no turning.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Messages
896
Location
Florida
My original suggestion since there was only 51,000 km = about 30,000 miles on the rotors was to turn them and install new pads.

Rotors usually last much longer than 30k, and $60 is far less $$ than a set of rotors.

In Canada it is easy to find someone to turn the rotors for $15 "cash" each.

I agree not ALL rotors when new need to be turned, it’s easy to check them first; and they did say they were rear rotors.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
Messages
397
Location
Portland, OR
 
I just did all four corners on mine and it was very easy. Took maybe 5-6hrs total. I went with the PowerStop Z36 kit. Love them so far.

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Nov 1, 2018
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Driving
I just did the rears with the TRD pads (Stoptech), the rotors were like new so I just reused them. I didn't do the integral parking brake. Having the rears high performance and the fronts akebono gave me much less brake dive even in soft. Transformed panic braking. (Weight transfer compromise I know.)

I replaced the front disk and used TRD for them as well. Any decent modern disk is finished, balanced and cross-hatched at the factory. I competed in SCCA and went through a lots of pads and disks, and there is a time and a place for cheap disks. I have tried turning for mechanical disk warpage (runout) and it never worked for very long for me. You can skim a disk *very lightly to get pad hotspot accumulation off. But that is barely taking any metal off. Generally I have found an aggressive pad compound just scrapes pad accumulation off after rebedding anyway so I stopped doing even that turning.

I understand that you are supposed to replace the caliper bolts. I wasn't able to find any on my timeline locally and most places don't carry them. It looks like the front and rear are the same bolt maybe, and the parts diagram just shows rear? They have an integral washer. Well, the very last front caliper bolt cross-threads in the middle(!?) of tightening the last bolt on the front. I pulled it and the bolt galled on the middle threads. Bizarre. So I'm ordering new ones from the dealer. And maybe will have to go to a helicoil.

Learn from me, plan in advance, just replace all the bolts.
 

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