bloc
SILVER Star
I have a couple new spares I keep in my toolbag for trips.. if they back out and you lose one you are up the creek. This was pretty common on 80-series but I haven’t heard much about it on 200s.
Rear Rotors and brake pads. Easy"ish" job or ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CoolPrius
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
(EDIT: trying to confirm this first part is correct) Also, front caliper bolt 91672-L1240
(this part should be correct)
Rear caliper bracket bolt 91672-C1230
Rear caliper to bracket slide pin bolt 47715-43010
(this part should be correct)
Rear caliper bracket bolt 91672-C1230
Rear caliper to bracket slide pin bolt 47715-43010
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bloc
SILVER Star
Just remembered, these are for 08-15. 16+ has a larger bolt on the front brakes and these numbers won’t apply.
Edit: 16 front caliper bolt part number is 90105-14198 I didn’t check if it’s the same for each year but I believe 16+ are all the same.
bloc
SILVER Star
I'll edit the post.. parts program is saying it's same part number as the hub bearing carrier bolts, and the part the ordering site I use is coming in for a rear bracket on a tundra/sequoia.
I'll send an email to a friend in a parts department and see what they have to say, but it'll be friday at least before I hear back.
Ive been running these for a little over 2 years now. When the time comes for replacement, I won't use them again. I'm disappointed in their performance.
Has anyone used the NAPA Reactive One rotors and pads?
I have had really good experience with these on my ram diesel and my jeep grand Cherokee.
These TRD pads and rotors do not wear well. Plus the pads are super dusty. At least they were cheep at 40% off.
I have had really good experience with these on my ram diesel and my jeep grand Cherokee.
These TRD pads and rotors do not wear well. Plus the pads are super dusty. At least they were cheep at 40% off.
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bloc
SILVER Star
I accept the dust of TRD pads as the price I must pay for the fade resistance. Apparently I drive my truck pretty hard as I managed to destroy a set of front OEM pads. The material lost it’s structure and was falling apart. Same driving cycle on TRD pads and they are holding up great. Plus much better initial bite.
I have run many many pads. It is either dusty/noisy, or it is low performance. The factory pad (akebono) in mine was terrible for braking, not dusty, not noisy. The TRD, dusty and instant bite and controllable. I really like pagid and porterfield for both track and street, noisy and dusty. I really dislike the non-track hawks. But big picture, except for an oddball raybestos racing pads, stick with serious brand names.
- Thread starter
- #32
Update: Finally did this job!
3 hours & 2 bloody knuckles later, and both rears have new pads.
3 hours & 2 bloody knuckles later, and both rears have new pads.
Did you do the rotors too? Straight forward job with the OEM toyota kit - rotors, pads, and shims.Update: Finally did this job!
3 hours & 2 bloody knuckles later, and both rears have new pads.
- Thread starter
- #34
Just the pads. Rotors looked really nice after cleaning them up so I figured they were not needed at this time.
I have used Adaptive one's on an Odyssey and they didn't last a year without developing significant shudder under braking. I'd chalk this up to a one off, but it has happened for two consecutive sets of Adaptive one's...Maybe reactive one's are better? But the guy said these were the "best" napa had. This is from a napa fanboy.
