rear main seal (1 Viewer)

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This is a great thread. I'm dropping in a used engine and should probably do this as well.
 
just messed up two before I found this thread. I'll follow the instructions in a couple days :D
 
I took the rear seal to Lowes and found that a PVC cleanout adapter that goes from internal thread to slip joint is the perfect diameter to drive the seal in. I purchased the adapter and the threaded plug that screws in one end and I drive the seal in with a no bounce hammer on the square nut of the plug. I'm telling you the slip joint end has practically the identical OD as the rear seal. A very cheap solution that works.
 
Pin_Head said:
There is also a cam plug at 2 o'clock that tends to leak. I have seen more of these leaking than main seals. leaky main seals tend to sling oil off the back of the flywheel, so you can tell right away if the main is leaking. The freeze plug and cam plug tend to just leak down the back side of the engine.


Kinda like this??? Looks like the culprits, in order of badness, are the main oil galley plug(11 0'clock) the cam plug, and then the rear main seal. But that is Idave's problem now;)

Ed
Swapin'motors 004.jpg
 
bsevans said:
I took the rear seal to Lowes and found that a PVC cleanout adapter that goes from internal thread to slip joint is the perfect diameter to drive the seal in. I purchased the adapter and the threaded plug that screws in one end and I drive the seal in with a no bounce hammer on the square nut of the plug. I'm telling you the slip joint end has practically the identical OD as the rear seal. A very cheap solution that works.

Good tip. Thanks:)
 
Degnol said:
Kinda like this??? Looks like the culprits, in order of badness, are the main oil galley plug(11 0'clock) the cam plug, and then the rear main seal. But that is Idave's problem now;)

Ed

Not if you don't build that trailer. :eek:
 
IDave said:
Not if you don't build that trailer. :eek:


Heh. Actually drew up some plans today. Well, I went and took some measurements off a 416. I'm going to have the welding shop build the basic rectangle so I don't end up with a potato chip, then I'll add the tongue, crossmembers, spring hangers, etc. I want a tailgate, too.
Don't worry, be happy!

Ed
 
Great tip

bsevans said:
I took the rear seal to Lowes and found that a PVC cleanout adapter that goes from internal thread to slip joint is the perfect diameter to drive the seal in. I purchased the adapter and the threaded plug that screws in one end and I drive the seal in with a no bounce hammer on the square nut of the plug. I'm telling you the slip joint end has practically the identical OD as the rear seal. A very cheap solution that works.

I took your advice and went to Lowes. Cost me 5 bucks for the cleanout adapter and plug and took my maybe 3 minutes to get it in. No problems at all and got the seal in on the first try. Excellent tip!
 
Could someone post a pic of the PVC cleanout adapter and threaded plug? I'll be working on my rear main seal within the next couple of weeks.

Thanks!
 

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