Rear main seal or oil pan leak?

[DirtMcgirt79]

So I noticed a pretty good leak over the past several days… I pulled the clutch inspection cover earlier today just to see if I could pinpoint the source… I cleaned up all of the fresh oil I could see and let it sit… after about 2 hours I came back to a 2 inch puddle and what looks to be a leak around the rear of the oil pan or the rear main seal. See pics…
Is it worth it to try dropping the oil pan and replacing the gasket first? Or is there anything about this pic that says it’s definitely the RMS?

I have zero experience with dropping a trans, but if that’s what I need to do I’m willing to do the research and start planning for it. I may try to hold off until I’m ready to throw an H55F in though.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide…

 

[OSS]

First-
Make sure the little oil pan bolts are snug - but whatever you do, don’t crank down on them.

If it’s still leaking,
Try using a High Mileage motor oil. They have additives that swell caskets and seals to stop leaks and I can say from first hand experience that it works for drips.
The oil I used was Mobil High Mileage Motor Oil 10w40. Really nice oil regardless.

When I removed my oil pan, the gasket was so stuck on there that it was “impossible” for me to remove it from the pan. A true hate mission. And if you manage chipping it off somehow, you’ll mark up the flange so bad that the new gasket will leak too — a total waste of time.

So my advice is — If you’re going to remove the oil pan, plan on replacing it.

If the leak ends up being the rear main seal - then yes the transmission needs to be removed. And since you’ve got it out, you should replace ALL the clutch components. Everything - because you don’t wantto have to do it again in the near future.

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

First-
Make sure the little oil pan bolts are snug - but whatever you do, don’t crank down on them.

If it’s still leaking,
Try using a High Mileage motor oil. They have additives that swell caskets and seals to stop leaks and I can say from first hand experience that it works for drips.
The oil I used was Mobil High Mileage Motor Oil 10w40. Really nice oil regardless.

When I removed my oil pan, the gasket was so stuck on there that it was “impossible” for me to remove it from the pan. A true hate mission. And if you manage chipping it off somehow, you’ll mark up the flange so bad that the new gasket will leak too — a total waste of time.

So my advice is — If you’re going to remove the oil pan, plan on replacing it.

If the leak ends up being the rear main seal - then yes the transmission needs to be removed. And since you’ve got it out, you should replace ALL the clutch components. Everything - because you don’t wantto have to do it again in the near future.

View attachment 3596516

Thanks for the reply and the tips… I will likely go ahead and plan to change the oil pan, clutch, and all of the associated seals. I’ve been considering the clutch anyway so it may just be a good time to bite the bullet and take care of everything.

 

[SteveH]

@DirtMcgirt79

Replace the pan gasket first. 99% of trucks with the original gasket need it, and the job is so much easier than pulling the transmission. My FJ62 has 262K and still has the original, non-leaking rear main seal. If needed, you can heat the flange of the oil pan to remove the old gasket. I had no issues re-using the original oil pan.

Only, only, only use a Toyota OEM 1-piece oil pan gasket, and use super-small zip ties, dental floss, or some technology to secure the gasket to the pan as you bring it up (to keep the gasket from falling into the pan). Clip the ties or strings as you go. I used FIP lightly on both sides of the gasket. Check other threads here for more tips on oil pan gasket replacement.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I agree - start with the oil pan. I had the exact same symptoms as you, and since replacing the oil pan gasket, I have no oil leaks at all.

I used a scissor jack to push the pan away from the block, as seen in the photo below. Follow the FSM to the letter and as @SteveH says, ONLY use the one-piece OEM Toyota gasket and Toyota FIPG.

It's a miserable job but totally doable for the shade tree mechanic. Good luck!

 

[WildernessRimFab]

I second the use of a scissor jack. I did this job on my fj40 with a jack...the key is to add pressure slowly and walk away.
I recall coming back to the truck the following morning and the oil pan was magically on the floor!
Dont rush it with the jack or you could damage the pan.

 

[Spike Strip]

An alternative for the oil pan is to use a cutter. I've linked a $12 Taiwan knockoff of the $100 OTC tool below. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Mejiao-Separator-Wrench-Engine-Transmissions/dp/B0B45VJX52/ref=asc_df_B0B45VJX52/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=658336671733&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7380534177322107879&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031149&hvtargid=pla-2062362264233&psc=1&mcid=04aeab3148453259b82bf189c29a385b

AMZ LINK

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I ended up replacing the oil pan with the new OEM pan and gasket due to a hole in top of the pan. I figured I'd just replace it instead of trying to repair it and risk it continuing to leak. I didn't think the process of replacing the pan was too painful using some of the tips I ran across in the forum.

Happy to say... it's been several days since I finished the replacement and I have not seen a single leak since...

Now on to rebuilding the steering box, which is also leaking pretty bad.

 

[Arlo89]

Where did you get the oem pan and gasket and what did it set you back? I'm needing to do this as well

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

Where did you get the oem pan and gasket and what did it set you back? I'm needing to do this as well

I ordered from one of my local dealers through https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/category/parts

You'll need the following parts... and I also used some Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 where recommended in the FSM. Good luck!

Oil Pan Sub-Assembly

Part Number: 12101-61013

Oil Pan Gasket

Part Number: 12151-61011

Plug with Head Straight Screw

Part Number: 90341-12012

Gasket

Part Number: 90430-12031

 

[Arlo89]

Did you buy new oil pan bolts, if so what's the part number? I have 91615 40820 listed but not sure if those are a new part number now

 

[OSS]

Did you buy new oil pan bolts, if so what's the part number? I have 91615 40820 listed but not sure if those are a new part number now

Those are the correct Toyota oil pan bolts for 2F engine

 

[Arlo89]

I cannot seem to find them, did you get them from the dealer?

 

[OSS]

I cannot seem to find them, did you get them from the dealer?

The part number has been replaced by 90080-11675

90080-11675 - Toyota Parts Deal

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[Old Nick]

I cannot seem to find them, did you get them from the dealer?

Your local dealer should be able to get them for you. BUT... CruiserOutfitters will also have them, as will other vendors here. Call and speak to them by phone. Your parts will arrive in a hurry.

 

[Arlo89]

Thanks all, I usually order from the toyota parts deal place. They look to have all I need

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks all, I usually order from the toyota parts deal place. They look to have all I need

My experience with them wasn't good (I'm glad that yours has been). For OEM, used to use McGeorge Toyota. They were bought out by Olathe: Olathe Toyota Parts Center - https://parts.olathetoyota.com/. Never had a problem. For harder to find things, check Partsouq... huge Middle Eastern inventory. Shipping is expensive, but parts prices are far less that here. Usually ends in a wash, or a little cheaper.

Cheers.

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

Did you buy new oil pan bolts, if so what's the part number? I have 91615 40820 listed but not sure if those are a new part number now

No, I just reused the original bolts as they were all in good shape. I did clean them up good though. Like others have suggested, pick up some longer bolts of the same size to use to hold up the pan and gasket during install. That made the job easier for sure.

 

[vankho]

No, I just reused the original bolts as they were all in good shape. I did clean them up good though. Like others have suggested, pick up some longer bolts of the same size to use to hold up the pan and gasket during install. That made the job easier for sure.

What is the thread and bolt size? Doing this job soon and picking up longer ones sound like such a great idea.

 

[DirtMcgirt79]

I

What is the thread and bolt size? Doing this job soon and picking up longer ones sound like such a great idea.

I'll be honest... I don't remember what they were. You may want to pop one of them out and take it with you to the hardware store to be certain you get the right one. This is what I ended up doing.