Rear Heater Valve Rebuild

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Wes

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Joined
Jul 17, 2014
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Location
Texas
After rebuilding my rear heater and re-installing it, I noticed a leak from around the shaft of the valve when fully open. It didn't leak any other time. I guess I damaged an o-ring or the shaft while rebuilding everything. I had to solder the hard pipes to the core because I couldn't get the o-ring and clips to seal and I noticed some small nicks in the shaft, so I either got it too hot or was too rough with it.

The original valve part number is 87240-60040, but it is NLA. I found a thread here where someone used a 70 series heater valve to steal the guts out of. I thought, if Toyota used the same guts in a 70 series, they may have used the same design in other valves. Valve 87240-60010 is readily available and not too expensive, so I thought I would buy one and give a shot at repairing mine.

Here is my valve setup.

DSC03775.webp


Prying up the four tabs on the face of the assembly gives easy access to the internals of each. Everything was identical except for the shaft length, spring length, and the two plastic pieces at the bottom of the valve assembly. Everything is the same diameter. Some of the o-rings in the new valve were orange in color instead of black, but they were the same size. Note that I did have to drill out the rivet from the end of the shaft that holds the internals together, but was able to replace this with a small computer screw by drilling and tapping the end of the shaft. I believe the screw size I used was M2x4-5.0. You can buy the screws as well as a jewelry tap kit on Amazon.

DSC03765.webp


I polished the original shaft to remove the nicks, but it is possible to make one of the shorter shafts out of the longer one as only the lengths were different. I was able to do this pretty easily in the event I couldn't get the nicks polished out of the original one. During reassembly, I used the top plastic piece/o-ring sub-assembly, and all of the o-rings out of the new valve. I had to reuse the bottom plastic pieces that, although look like they've seen better days, only serve as a guide into the smaller pipe behind the valve.

After re-assembling everything, initial pressure tests show it to be working just fine. This could serve as a work around if you experience a similar problem and can't find the correct valve for your Cruiser.
 
Great info and writeup - I do a lot of that stuff repairing part sub-assemblies that are NLA , takes a lot of research and thinking outside the box to keep things looking stock and making them work as intended .
Nice job...
How hard is the 70-series valve to find and cost ?
Sarge
 
I didn't even try to find the one for the 70 series. I believe in the previous thread I found the poster found it in a junk yard. The one I used is the valve that goes under the hood for most (if not all) 40 series. I'm guessing Toyota used the same design for most heater valves with only a few minor changes depending on design. I found the one I used on eBay, but I think they are still available from Toyota.
 

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