Rear E-locker fix?

[acflyguy18]

I tore the rear actuator apart yesterday to find it very dirty, corroded etc, and most troublesome that the brushes at the armature had broken in 2. One side is still connected to the copper wire.




I know that the actuator is not serviced by Toyota; however, does anyone have any ideas on how to get/make new brushes. I was going to check a local starter repair shop here in Jacksonville, Fl, whom I know has a lot of different brushes for starters. Going to see if I can't get some to work for this application.

All ideas and suggestions are welcome. At this point I am not giving up and buying anything new.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Poser]

I was going to check a local starter repair shop here in Jacksonville, Fl, whom I know has a lot of different brushes for starters.

That would be your best bet.

 

[acflyguy18]

would turning the brushes around so that the remaining lead composite was facing the armature like normal yield any results. If so it would obviously be temporary. The reason I ask is because I don't understand completely how the brushes integrate into the rotor/stator system to make it work, and if the remaining brush would be suitable to drive the motor.

All this is due to no motoring of the rear actuator, and I do have power to the motor. Assuming those broken brushes are the major culprit.

Dave

 

[Tools R Us]

Here are a couple of sources the can be searched by size. Will probably have to buy close, slightly oversize and sand to size? Graphite sands very easy, think pencil lead.

Carbon Brush

Graphite Store:  Carbon BrushesSize

 

[acflyguy18]

Tools,

Awesome, thanks. I was guessing that i could buy a different size and sand it to fit, but didn't know if that would be detrimental.

Really appreciate it.

Dave

 

[acflyguy18]

Anybody know if there are material differences that can be an issue for brushes like these or is it just a matter of getting the size right?

Dave

 

[Tools R Us]

Anybody know if there are material differences that can be an issue for brushes like these or is it just a matter of getting the size right?

Dave

Get the right size or close enough to sand to size and with a usable type, length of wire. It doesn't matter if it has a piece of metal on the end, spring, etc, just as long as the wire is long enough once that stuff is cut off. Brushes are made from graphite/carbon, pretty much all the same stuff.

 

[acflyguy18]

Cool, thanks again.

Dave

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Dave,

When you pulled your locker actuator motor out, did you lock the axle? I opened my rear locker motor up but it was in the unlock position when I took the cover out and one of the brushes fell out and got disconnected on the wire where it is connected, do you think I can put it back the way it came out?

 

[acflyguy18]

Honestly I don't remember if it was locked or not; but that should have no impact on what the brushes are doing. Was it the front or rear, did the brushes break at all/disconnect from their leads; or did the leads come away from their connection on the mounting plate???

 

[RedTacoma]

Dave,

When you pulled your locker actuator motor out, did you lock the axle? I opened my rear locker motor up but it was in the unlock position when I took the cover out and one of the brushes fell out and got disconnected on the wire where it is connected, do you think I can put it back the way it came out?

When you pull locker out from diff it should be in locked position. If it was not you need to lock manually in diff and turn dial into lock position > align mark on the locker by using 1.5 v Battery and then install back.
I learned that the hard way
Pulling elec engine out does not make anything wrong since inside there is a worm gear that drives locker.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Honestly I don't remember if it was locked or not; but that should have no impact on what the brushes are doing. Was it the front or rear, did the brushes break at all/disconnect from their leads; or did the leads come away from their connection on the mounting plate???

This is on the rear locker actuator motor. When I slowly pull the motor cover off, one of the brushes got separated from the lead but the lead is still connected to the mounting plate. The brushes are both looking good and still look brand new, the only problem is that one brush came out of the lead.

When you pull locker out from diff it should be in locked position. If it was not you need to lock manually in diff and turn dial into lock position > align mark on the locker by using 1.5 v Battery and then install back.
I learned that the hard way
Pulling elec engine out does not make anything wrong since inside there is a worm gear that drives locker.

The whole third member is still attach to the rear axle, I only pulled the rear locker motor cover off for inspection. I knew about that before you remove the diff from the axle, the diff should be in the locked position as per FSM.

Oh by the way, the whole axle is not installed in the truck, it is sitting on jack stands so I have a real good access to the actuator.

 

[acflyguy18]

So if I understand correctly, one of the brushes is seperated from its lead, but the lead is still connected to the plate. If that is the case then you need to get a new brush and file it to fit; there is no way to reconnect the brush to the lead, as the lead is integrated into the carbon during manufacturing.

You can get a brush from a startor/alternator supply shop if the guy will take the time to find a small one for you. You probably cannot get one that will fit exactly, but it only takes a couple of minutes to file the brush to fit back in; then solder the lead from the new brush back into position.

While it is off, check the bearing that the armature rides in and make sure it is good, if not have it replaced at the starter shop, it has a part number on the bearing that is relatively common, and my shop had it in stock.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

So if I understand correctly, one of the brushes is seperated from its lead, but the lead is still connected to the plate. If that is the case then you need to get a new brush and file it to fit; there is no way to reconnect the brush to the lead, as the lead is integrated into the carbon during manufacturing.

You can get a brush from a startor/alternator supply shop if the guy will take the time to find a small one for you. You probably cannot get one that will fit exactly, but it only takes a couple of minutes to file the brush to fit back in; then solder the lead from the new brush back into position.

While it is off, check the bearing that the armature rides in and make sure it is good, if not have it replaced at the starter shop, it has a part number on the bearing that is relatively common, and my shop had it in stock.

Looks like I'm in trouble. How about a little sanding on the brush, then wipe with alcohol pad, then connect it to the copper braided wire using an epoxy? Will that work?

 

[acflyguy18]

Maybe, but I would just go get a new brush. I wouldn't say you are in trouble. It is very easy to fix. Any starter/alternator shop worth its salt will have brushes available, they will just be a little large. Make sure you take the actuator with you so they can see what size and shape to get. I think my guy said it was a side mount.

It is very easy to file the brushes, just be cautious of breaking the brush while filing it. It is pretty brittle, but not hard to do. Again, very easy to fix.

If you take the gears and springs out under the other plate, (recommended) and clean and re-grease them make sure you pay attention to how it comes apart, not real difficult. Then when putting it back together the shift fork should range from IIRC 2 3/8" unlocked to 2 13/16" locked; not postitive on the measurements but that is pretty close.

Give me a hollar if you need any help...

Dave

 

[knorrena]

You could visit a bone yard and take apart a few other actuator motors, such as a wiper motor which is similar in size, and relieve them of their brushes.

A useful tip for getting the whole thing back together again is to use some dental floss to hold the brushes back from the armature while you slip in the motor.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

This is an old thread, but I figured I would update it in the event someone is still searching. The size of the brushes is 4.4mm x 4.4mm by about 7.5mm long when new.
I had a parts locker that I transplanted the brushes from. If anyone finds a good source for them please share!