Rear Dust Shields are almost dust

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earthsurfer

earthsurfer

Joined
Oct 1, 2011
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I was quoted $3750 to replace these ragged ones...sometimes they rattle around when I'm off road, but otherwise I'm just thinking of all the other things I could spend $3750 on. Can anyone give me a reason why this is worth that kind of money? this is for an 08 LC with almost 180k on the odeometer.
 
earthsurfer said:
They are for the rear wheels ...sorry
Click to expand...

I was told it's a labor intensive replacement and that it was vital to have it done ASAP. The vehicle lived in MA for the first 7 years, and they've been that way since I bought it in '15. I feel like there's a hustle being attempted.
 
it is labor intensive, you have to press off the wheel bearing from the axle shaft to remove the backing plate. 3750 is way too much, it should be somewhere between 1500-2000$ for both.
 
bigredmachine said:
it is labor intensive, you have to press off the wheel bearing from the axle shaft to remove the backing plate. 3750 is way too much, it should be somewhere between 1500-2000$ for both.
Click to expand...


thanks. that's still a lot of $$ at this point what's the worst that could happen if i don't do it?
 
Common failure point... and replacing them requires replacing a half dozen other parts too. That said $3750 to replace is steeeeeeeeeep. I'll do it for that and you will come out with an ARB Air Locker installed too :D

Fwiw they do supercede to a later design with an additional spot weld which will help with the rust but not absolutely prevent. The design leaves a bit to be desired. We seal the joint with a bit of FIPG when we reinstall and modify the brake line retainer for easy of install and field service too.
 
A local shop'll give you a better price. No computer codes or anything involved so there not as much reason to have the dealer do it. It is a fairly routine thing to do to a car, especially where they salt the roads.

What do they do? Things mount to them, especially if you have drum brakes or those dual disc/drum brakes where the drum is inside the rotor and works as the e-brake. They sheild your brakes from incoming rocks, sand and water from under the car; they sheild your shocks, ball joints, etc from radiated heat from hot rotors, and they contain brake dust so that it goes out your rims rather than under your car.

Not sure if a splash of cold water on a hot rotor would warp or crack it, but it would probably cake up the brake dust.

All that being said, I think race cars don't have em, but they're not offroading...

EDITED:

If you are going to do it, you might consider replacing the wheel bearings, since that should only add the cost of the parts. Not sure the useful life of landcruiser wheel bearings, but they are a wear item that eventually gets replaced. The 700 for parts mentioned above might include those bearings, new seals and other goodies. Point is, doing brake backing plates gets you a few parts replaced that would eventually get done. So, its pricey but its cheaper than doing the two jobs separately.
 
Last edited:
NMNORSSE said:
...
EDITED:

If you are going to do it, you might consider replacing the wheel bearings, since that should only add the cost of the parts. Not sure the useful life of landcruiser wheel bearings, but they are a wear item that eventually gets replaced. The 700 for parts mentioned above might include those bearings, new seals and other goodies. Point is, doing brake backing plates gets you a few parts replaced that would eventually get done. So, its pricey but its cheaper than doing the two jobs separately.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth you have to replace the wheel bearings... no option otherwise.

That said if your Cruiser is old enough to have crusty backing plates, your wheel bearings should be replaced, they do fail eventually.
 
NMNORSSE said:
so there not as much reason to have the dealer do it
Click to expand...
there is an sst to mount and set up the axle shaft in the press, not saying it cant be done with out it but we have had axle shafts come in when an outside shop couldn't get the bearing off the shaft with out the sst.


NMNORSSE said:
The 700 for parts mentioned above might include those bearings, new seals and other goodies.
Click to expand...
not sure on the price but there is a wheel bearing kit that includes backing plate, wheel bearing, axle seal, axle o-ring, retainer, wave washer and prpbably some other stoff I'm forgetting. its one kit per side and check to make sure that the correct bearing is in the box, they are not interchangeable between sides. the abs sensor mounts on the back of the bearing and the bearings can only mount up one way
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Common failure point... and replacing them requires replacing a half dozen other parts too. That said $3750 to replace is steeeeeeeeeep. I'll do it for that and you will come out with an ARB Air Locker installed too :D

Fwiw they do supercede to a later design with an additional spot weld which will help with the rust but not absolutely prevent. The design leaves a bit to be desired. We seal the joint with a bit of FIPG when we reinstall and modify the brake line retainer for easy of install and field service too.
Click to expand...


Thank you. I'm taking a long break from mods but a locker is tempting. Without the locker, would that put the job at around $2k ?
 
NMNORSSE said:
A local shop'll give you a better price. No computer codes or anything involved so there not as much reason to have the dealer do it. It is a fairly routine thing to do to a car, especially where they salt the roads.

What do they do? Things mount to them, especially if you have drum brakes or those dual disc/drum brakes where the drum is inside the rotor and works as the e-brake. They sheild your brakes from incoming rocks, sand and water from under the car; they sheild your shocks, ball joints, etc from radiated heat from hot rotors, and they contain brake dust so that it goes out your rims rather than under your car.

Not sure if a splash of cold water on a hot rotor would warp or crack it, but it would probably cake up the brake dust.

All that being said, I think race cars don't have em, but they're not offroading...

EDITED:

If you are going to do it, you might consider replacing the wheel bearings, since that should only add the cost of the parts. Not sure the useful life of landcruiser wheel bearings, but they are a wear item that eventually gets replaced. The 700 for parts mentioned above might include those bearings, new seals and other goodies. Point is, doing brake backing plates gets you a few parts replaced that would eventually get done. So, its pricey but its cheaper than doing the two jobs separately.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your detailed response.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
For what it's worth you have to replace the wheel bearings... no option otherwise.

That said if your Cruiser is old enough to have crusty backing plates, your wheel bearings should be replaced, they do fail eventually.
Click to expand...

Thank you
 
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