Rear Drive Shaft install (3 Viewers)

[sacfj60]

So I was out on the trail this week and my drive shaft decided to become unbolted on one end. Luckily I was in 4WD so I just unbolted the other end and drove in 4WD all the way home. I was a bit surprised to say the least.

I have the replacement bolts/kit so the question is:

is there anything more to reinstalling it other than bolting it back in? does anything need to line up or do I just stick it back on there?
also, any theories on how these can become so loose on one end?
I also understand the torque is about 54 lb/ft- does that sound correct?

 

[OSS]

Normally the DS flange is marked by the user before its removed so that it will be reinstalled in the same orientation. But since it fell off & wasn't removed, you'll have to do your best to orient the flange the same way it originally was. It might take some careful examination with a magnifying glass to correctly match it how it was.

Why did it fall off? The DS nuts got loose. If it was ever removed before - that's the reason.

 

[sacfj60]

Normally the DS flange is marked by the user before its removed so that it will be reinstalled in the same orientation. But since it fell off & wasn't removed, you'll have to do your best to orient the flange the same way it originally was. It might take some careful examination with a magnifying glass to correctly match it how it was.

Why did it fall off? The DS nuts got loose. If it was ever removed before - that's the reason.

thank you for that. I will have to look closely-i wish i had made a note of that when it was still on. I don't know what made it come loose, I was on some bumpy roads but not that bad. 18 years of ownership and I have never even had to look at that thing. I dragged it about three feet before i realized what was happening. what do look for to orient it correctly?

 

[dbleon]

Well since it’s already off.. I vote for new Matsuba joints and a balance at your local shop. Should be less than 100 bucks all shiny new and balanced

 

[sacfj60]

thank you for that. I will have to look closely-i wish i had made a note of that when it was still on. I don't know what made it come loose, I was on some bumpy roads but not that bad. 18 years of ownership and I have never even had to look at that thing. I dragged it about three feet before i realized what was happening. what do look for to orient it correctly?

Well since it’s already off.. I vote for new Matsuba joints and a balance at your local shop. Should be less than 100 bucks all shiny new and balanced

good point-I am unfamiliar with those joints. I will look them up for sure.
i do not have a local shop unfortunately. nearest LC one is 50 miles each way and too busy for the small stuff

 

[dbleon]

Look for a driveshaft shop not a LC shop

 

[sacfj60]

Look for a driveshaft shop not a LC shop

definitely gonna be north of a $100 parts and labor for a shop to do that but point taken.
One piece of the story I forgot to add was i just put a new lift on there to replace the old saggy one. is it possible that made the bolts loose?

 

[1911]

definitely gonna be north of a $100 parts and labor for a shop to do that but point taken.
One piece of the story I forgot to add was i just put a new lift on there to replace the old saggy one. is it possible that made the bolts loose?

If the working angles of the u-joints on both ends are not equal (or close to it) and opposite, that will introduce some rpm-specific vibration that could loosen bolts over time. Lifts commonly do that - make the working angles unequal. Correct them with steel wedge shims under the spring pack.

I use blue Loctite on my driveshaft bolts, every time.

 

[1911]

is there anything more to reinstalling it other than bolting it back in? does anything need to line up or do I just stick it back on there?

The yokes need to be in phase:

 

[dbleon]

definitely gonna be north of a $100 parts and labor for a shop to do that but point taken.
One piece of the story I forgot to add was i just put a new lift on there to replace the old saggy one. is it possible that made the bolts loose?

I’m talking labor. The I joints are about 50ea IIRC. Well worth the investment if you ask me.

 

[dbleon]

If the working angles of the u-joints on both ends are not equal (or close to it) and opposite, that will introduce some rpm-specific vibration that could loosen bolts over time. Lifts commonly do that - make the working angles unequal. Correct them with steel wedge shims under the spring pack.

I use blue Loctite on my driveshaft bolts, every time.

+1 on the loctite

 

[cruiserpilot]

Up in the header on this forum is RESOURCES
Check there for service manual for a 60 series / any land cruiser and look up the proper
Torque Spec for those bolts. That diagram about driveshaft phase is magnificent and should
be stickied! Don’t buy cheap U Bolts, ever. Have the yoke splines checked, they wear out and
if lose just make everything wear faster. Whatever this costs, get a good driveline shop to rebuild
it and balance it - and warranty it! The whole driveline of your truck depends on the balance and
smoothness of that driveshaft.

Edit: I should have said universal joints, not U bolts. Sorry, brain mush from overworking lately.

 

[sacfj60]

Up in the header on this forum is RESOURCES
Check there for service manual for a 60 series / any land cruiser and look up the proper
Torque Spec for those bolts. That diagram about driveshaft phase is magnificent and should
be stickied! Don’t buy cheap U Bolts, ever. Have the yoke splines checked, they wear out and
if lose just make everything wear faster. Whatever this costs, get a good driveline shop to rebuild
it and balance it - and warranty it! The whole driveline of your truck depends on the balance and
smoothness of that driveshaft.

Edit: I should have said universal joints, not U bolts. Sorry, brain mush from overworking lately.

taking it to a drive line shop. thanks for all the recommendations on this. always more to to learn.

 

[DickM]

The other item to pay attention to after you get the Phase correct is to look at the u-joint grease zerks and make sure that you are able to access them with the drive shaft installed, other wise you will be dropping the driveshaft to lube it.

 

[sacfj60]

The other item to pay attention to after you get the Phase correct is to look at the u-joint grease zerks and make sure that you are able to access them with the drive shaft installed, other wise you will be dropping the driveshaft to lube it.

can you be more specific on that? not sure what you are referencing. also, what is the procedure for lubing the spline and joints when i get the driveshaft back?

 

[OSS]

All the info you need is in the manual. The driveshaft section I've attached here.
Having a professional driveshaft shop rebuild the unit is no guarantee that you'll get it back assembled correctly.
The place I took mine to did it wrong even though I had left a drawing with them and I had to take it back and insist they reinstall the spiders correctly.
Their argument was "that's how we always do it".

If the spiders aren't aligned exactly how the manual shows, you won't be able to get to a few of the grease zerks.

 

[sacfj60]

All the info you need is in the manual. The driveshaft section I've attached here.
Having a professional driveshaft shop rebuild the unit is no guarantee that you'll get it back assembled correctly.
The place I took mine to did it wrong even though I had left a drawing with them and I had to take it back and insist they reinstall the spiders correctly.
Their argument was "that's how we always do it".

If the spiders aren't aligned exactly how the manual shows, you won't be able to get to a few of the grease zerks.

this is all really good to know. i will proceed with caution on this

 

[sacfj60]

rebuilt drive shaft is in with new u joints and all. one thing i noticed is that now when i turn the wheel when parked i am getting a lot of clunking and creaking somewhere up front. any ideas if it may be connected to the install of the new drive shaft? doesn't seem like it would be. I had never heard that noise before-don't want to hear it again either....

 

[Kleatus]

The yokes need to be in phase:

View attachment 2719297if those are out it's a very quick way to beat the crap out of your pinion bearings and transfer case bearings, as well as the slip splines and U joints.

 

[sacfj60]

the shop labeled the alignment so should I assume they misaligned it? it drives fine and only makes noise when turning while stationary.