Rear drawer options w/out removing the 3rd row? (1 Viewer)

[Heel9094]

Hey @Heel9094 I'm sorry for the delay... no end in sight lately. I'm attaching a photo of the rough sketch I made of the workable space, and the two screenshots of what I ordered from TNUTZ.com and their lengths.

First, the area we can work with. I set the second row seats to the furthest back they could go, and reclined them slightly. Also, goes without saying, third row was collapsed and stowed in the upright position. Thank you for flying with us. They're not the most exact measurements, but they worked out pretty well for me (I'm a 2010 LX, so I'd assume the 09-15 LC's should be roughly the same dimensions. AMENDED: The measurements to the 4 mounting points for the base of the third row seats are made to center-center of the metal bar. Anything measured front to back is measured to the axis of the metal bar. Anything measured side-to-side is measured to the lateral midpoint of that metal bar.

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Second, what I ordered. Below are the screenshots of my materials. I wish I had a good way of conveying the assembly. I am blessed with a pretty good visual memory, so unfortunately I'm garbage at passing along the assembly instructions. I'm the anti-IKEA. I will say that I wanted to maintain use of my grocery cargo net, so I left unused space between the front edge of the drawers/platform, and the tailgate. I know that my two 2x1 segments were cut to 36", and run front to back of the drawers. I believe that the 36.5" segments run side to side, with a further length-wise 1x1 segment butted up to that on either end, for an overall footprint measuring 36" x 38.5".

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If you follow in my footsteps on the order, you might have to play a little Tetris to get things to fit together cleanly and as-intended, but what I'll say is that if you aim for that 36x38 footprint, you're going to be safe. I think I included details on the Target bins that I used as drawers in my original write-up posted above, but if not, I just remember they're the [61?] quart clear bins for $10 each.

Feel free to holler at me with any questions if you go this road... I'm happy to help out however I can, sorry I don't have a better step-by-step for you!

Perfect and exactly what I looking for! Thank you so much... its what makes this forum so cool. I may tweak the height to match the height of the 2nd row when it is collapsed to add an extension in the future. I'll document and post when its done.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Perfect and exactly what I looking for! Thank you so much... its what makes this forum so cool. I may tweak the height to match the height of the 2nd row when it is collapsed to add an extension in the future. I'll document and post when its done.

Ya man I'm glad I could help. You can also have a look at the brackets and hardware they have in case you've got any specific way you want things to go together, I just didn't need anything too complicated.

I look forward to seeing what you wind up with man, good luck!

 

[Heel9094]

Hey @Heel9094 I'm sorry for the delay... no end in sight lately. I'm attaching a photo of the rough sketch I made of the workable space, and the two screenshots of what I ordered from TNUTZ.com and their lengths.

First, the area we can work with. I set the second row seats to the furthest back they could go, and reclined them slightly. Also, goes without saying, third row was collapsed and stowed in the upright position. Thank you for flying with us. They're not the most exact measurements, but they worked out pretty well for me (I'm a 2010 LX, so I'd assume the 09-15 LC's should be roughly the same dimensions. AMENDED: The measurements to the 4 mounting points for the base of the third row seats are made to center-center of the metal bar. Anything measured front to back is measured to the axis of the metal bar. Anything measured side-to-side is measured to the lateral midpoint of that metal bar.

View attachment 2511629

Second, what I ordered. Below are the screenshots of my materials. I wish I had a good way of conveying the assembly. I am blessed with a pretty good visual memory, so unfortunately I'm garbage at passing along the assembly instructions. I'm the anti-IKEA. I will say that I wanted to maintain use of my grocery cargo net, so I left unused space between the front edge of the drawers/platform, and the tailgate. I know that my two 2x1 segments were cut to 36", and run front to back of the drawers. I believe that the 36.5" segments run side to side, with a further length-wise 1x1 segment butted up to that on either end, for an overall footprint measuring 36" x 38.5".

View attachment 2511665
View attachment 2511666

If you follow in my footsteps on the order, you might have to play a little Tetris to get things to fit together cleanly and as-intended, but what I'll say is that if you aim for that 36x38 footprint, you're going to be safe. I think I included details on the Target bins that I used as drawers in my original write-up posted above, but if not, I just remember they're the [61?] quart clear bins for $10 each.

Feel free to holler at me with any questions if you go this road... I'm happy to help out however I can, sorry I don't have a better step-by-step for you!

Just placed the order with tnutz... thanks again. I'll post the system when done. Wish me luck. Happy New Year

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Just placed the order with tnutz... thanks again. I'll post the system when done. Wish me luck. Happy New Year

Awesome!! I wish I’d had a better guide for you to work off of but I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Have you decided on a better for attaching the system into the vehicle, than the zip ties I’m still using? Just curious. They seem to be holding, just not terribly glamorous.

 

[Heel9094]

Awesome!! I wish I’d had a better guide for you to work off of but I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Have you decided on a better for attaching the system into the vehicle, than the zip ties I’m still using? Just curious. They seem to be holding, just not terribly glamorous.

It'll most likely be simple like a tie down or a turnbuckle like others have done... however I ordered additional extrusions that should run the length of the base. If I can set a "screw" or nut in the 3rd row seat attachments the plan would be to line up then slide the frame in along the 2 nuts. Make sense? I've attached a simple sketch.

The ultimate would be to find some 3rd row seat clasps or similar clasps, run a simple "pull" off them and place the frame in front first and then drop it onto the 3rd row seat anchor points - essentially attaching it like the seats. Obviously would need to either recess the clasps or raise the frame, add some release mechanism or pull, etc..

Maybe someone better at these builds or engineering on the forum has better thoughts for these concepts. Would love to hear them.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

It'll most likely be simple like a tie down or a turnbuckle like others have done... however I ordered additional extrusions that should run the length of the base. If I can set a "screw" or nut in the 3rd row seat attachments the plan would be to line up then slide the frame in along the 2 nuts. Make sense? I've attached a simple sketch.

The ultimate would be to find some 3rd row seat clasps or similar clasps, run a simple "pull" off them and place the frame in front first and then drop it onto the 3rd row seat anchor points - essentially attaching it like the seats. Obviously would need to either recess the clasps or raise the frame, add some release mechanism or pull, etc..

Maybe someone better at these builds or engineering on the forum has better thoughts for these concepts. Would love to hear them.

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I like that. I thought about finding those “latches” that are used for the third row seats as well. I wonder if a small outdoor gate latch might work. Like the swiveling ones you’d find on a backyard fence gate or something. I’ll have to do some looking and revisit.

 

[elcie200]

It'll most likely be simple like a tie down or a turnbuckle like others have done... however I ordered additional extrusions that should run the length of the base. If I can set a "screw" or nut in the 3rd row seat attachments the plan would be to line up then slide the frame in along the 2 nuts. Make sense? I've attached a simple sketch.

Inspired by this thread and the Low-Volume removable drawers (and many others). I built some sliding-top "drawers". The most important feature for me was that they were easily removable and did not interfere w/ the function of the 3rd row seats. Ended up using 2 lengths of 8020 (1.5"x.75" single channel), bolted to the tie-down points. The drawer bottom has a channel, and a bracket bolts over it to secure the drawer. The bulk of the drawer sits flush on the floor.

 

[DasKeyserSoze]

I just found this but haven't checked availability in the US

Storage Solution Toyota Land Cruiser - T200 4x4 Storage - Fourby Fitouts

The Low Profile Seats In for the Toyota 200 Series turns your 7 seater into a well-equipped storage system, without taking the third row of seats out!

fourbyfitouts.com.au

I reached out and am waiting to hear back.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Inspired by this thread and the Low-Volume removable drawers (and many others). I built some sliding-top "drawers". The most important feature for me was that they were easily removable and did not interfere w/ the function of the 3rd row seats. Ended up using 2 lengths of 8020 (1.5"x.75" single channel), bolted to the tie-down points. The drawer bottom has a channel, and a bracket bolts over it to secure the drawer. The bulk of the drawer sits flush on the floor.

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That looks amazing man, WAY more "high-speed" than mine! What kind of covering did you use on the deck (grey carpet/felt looking material)? Has me wanting to revisit my design now.

 

[elcie200]

That looks amazing man, WAY more "high-speed" than mine! What kind of covering did you use on the deck (grey carpet/felt looking material)? Has me wanting to revisit my design now.

Thanks man! The carpet is from home depot. It's outdoor carpet; precut 5x6' or something; $12. (It was not the cut to order stuff).

Its just spray glued to the top of the plywood -- 3m 77 spray adhesive I had left over from another project -- and staples underneath.

 

[Heel9094]

Awesome!! I wish I’d had a better guide for you to work off of but I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Have you decided on a better for attaching the system into the vehicle, than the zip ties I’m still using? Just curious. They seem to be holding, just not terribly glamorous.

Started this weekend with some tweaks. Since the plywood was 4'x8' I added a bottom piece that will hopefully have drawers. The "slot system" should work I just need to find a way to secure the U bolt (1/4" bolt with the TNUTZ washer/nut). So for the moment I am using a 1/4' bolt and turnbuckle. Also adding the carpet from Lowes. Increased the height so I can eventually add a leaf to extend it over the 2nd row rear seats to make a full bed or sleeping platform.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Love watching the

Started this weekend with some tweaks. Since the plywood was 4'x8' I added a bottom piece that will hopefully have drawers. The "slot system" should work I just need to find a way to secure the U bolt (1/4" bolt with the TNUTZ washer/nut). So for the moment I am using a 1/4' bolt and turnbuckle. Also adding the carpet from Lowes. Increased the height so I can eventually add a leaf to extend it over the 2nd row rear seats to make a full bed or sleeping platform.

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se versions come together. Looks good man!

 

[Heel9094]

Love watching the

se versions come together. Looks good man

Awesome!! I wish I’d had a better guide for you to work off of but I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Have you decided on a better for attaching the system into the vehicle, than the zip ties I’m still using? Just curious. They seem to be holding, just not terribly glamorous.

PROTOTYPE for the sliding locking system. Turnbuckles work great and I may use both. 1/4" U bolt with nylon 1/4" spacers. Had to cut the spacers shorter but I think I could have bought the right size. Will eventually use a locking 1/4" nut to minimize rattling (the nylon will help too) and then a TNUTZ washer bolt one top to slide the extension in and retain the rails. I'll have two 1"x2" TNUTZ rails as sliders. May then lock tight the TNUTZ. Would love to hear thongs and ideas.

for the sliding locking system. Turnbuckles work great and I may use both. 1/4" U bolt with nylon 1/4" spacers. Had to cut the spacers shorter but I think I could have bought the right size. Will eventually use a locking 1/4" nut to minimize rattling (the nylon will help too) and then a TNUTZ washer bolt one top to slide the extension in and retain the rails. I'll have two 1"x2" TNUTZ rails as sliders. May then lock tight the TNUTZ. Would love to hear thongs and ideas.

 

[Heel9094]

Love watching the

se versions come together. Looks good man!

Your original plans/ideas were perfect for me. I had left over wood and carpet - just enough to make two boxes (drawers). Added carpet to the inside of the drawers as well. So far the turnbuckles and weight of the system is perfect. After removing the drawers I can easily remove the frame by myself. I added 4 attachment points to the corners for bungees or "stratchits". Put some old stain on plywood and it became a cover for one drawer and also a work table/table if needed with the drawer out. Was going to add runners but so far the weight of the drawers and carpeted base allows them to easily slide out and not move at all. I have another simple idea but that is TBD. I'm also finishing an extension that goes just over the 2nd row of seats when they're down to extend the bed (attaches like a table leaf). I used Thompson water seal on all the wood since I throw wet gear in a lot.

So far its rock solid and doesn't rattle. Like you, the goal was keep costs down, simple, not over engineer it and maintain the use of the 3rd row. The whole thing can be removed in about 5 minutes. Thanks man! I'll update if needed.

 

[highfructose]

Figured I’d post this here for google or other searches.
I used a 48” truck bed side toolbox that I bolted to the rear most tie downs. Fits well and allows me to put some recovery gear underneath it for easy access. I’ve got 4 max tracks on top of the lowered seats (beneath the carpet in the pictures)...which gives a relatively flat “platform” in the back.
When I need the 3rd row, I can put the max trax on top of the toolbox and get full recline on the 3rd row.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Your original plans/ideas were perfect for me. I had left over wood and carpet - just enough to make two boxes (drawers). Added carpet to the inside of the drawers as well. So far the turnbuckles and weight of the system is perfect. After removing the drawers I can easily remove the frame by myself. I added 4 attachment points to the corners for bungees or "stratchits". Put some old stain on plywood and it became a cover for one drawer and also a work table/table if needed with the drawer out. Was going to add runners but so far the weight of the drawers and carpeted base allows them to easily slide out and not move at all. I have another simple idea but that is TBD. I'm also finishing an extension that goes just over the 2nd row of seats when they're down to extend the bed (attaches like a table leaf). I used Thompson water seal on all the wood since I throw wet gear in a lot.

So far its rock solid and doesn't rattle. Like you, the goal was keep costs down, simple, not over engineer it and maintain the use of the 3rd row. The whole thing can be removed in about 5 minutes. Thanks man! I'll update if needed.

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Man that looks great! You definitely put a little more time and attention in than I did. I was already mulling the idea of revisiting this and I think I might pull some here-and-there’s from your design.

 

[dkscism]

I reached out and am waiting to hear back.

Did you hear back on this?

 

[DasKeyserSoze]

Did you hear back on this?

Yes...still talking with them, but looking like freight will be almost equal to cost of the drawers/system

 

[OvrLandCruiser]

Does anyone know iif Fourby Fitouts (AUS) ships to the states?