Rear door popping sound when opening

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Apr 20, 2011
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Few weeks ago, (and unbeknownst to me), the rear passenger side door started making popping sounds when open/closing. I noticed it last week and inspected the door. There were two distinct pops about half way through the motion. What I found was, there is a flat metal bar that is screwed to the door right in between the hinges. I do not know what that piece is, but that is the culprit. I saw that the screw had actually worked itself loose, so I tightened that. That took care of the first pop. The second pop is still there. You can visibly see the metal piece jump when the pop occurs (or it's probably the jump that makes the pop sound. :D). I'm just going to ASSUME that there is another bolt/screw inside of the door that needs to be tightened, right? Or any input?

BTW, I hate that this happened in the coldest of the months. I do have an insulated garage, (not heated), but it's still cold and will probably snap off clips left and right when I go to take off the door panel...

I am not at home, but I will try to get a picture of what I'm talking about. Thanks.
 
that is the piece i was talking about in the other thread. I had the pop coupled with the high pitch squeak from the other. When i tightened the screw up, both went away. I would have thought this would have taken both pops out. It did for me.

ps. I had a pop in my front ds door. The screw was not the issue, i hosed it down with wd 40 about 6 months ago, and have not had an issue since.
 
Ha, just saw the other thread. (what are the chances...) Thanks for the input. I still think something may be up inside of the door. But I might wait until warmer weather to dive into it.
 
Funny just "fixed" this for the second time on my wife's Mazda. This time i used locktite.
 
I slipped a thin lock washer inbetween the "screw" and the door jamb on the P/S front door limiter of mine. Not a problem since...but I had to tighten once a week prior to using the lock washer.
 
Just the thread I needed! My driver's door has been doing the double pop for a while now. Just not a dignified sound coming from a 100.
 
That piece is called the door check, it's designed to only allow the door to open so far and has a detent position for partially open. The bolt that attaches to the door jamb commonly comes loose on many Toyota models. There are also a couple nuts on the other side where the studs slide through from inside the door. These also need to be tightened from time to time.

Remember, WD-40 is a solvent/penetrant and should not be used for lubricating vital parts. Instead use a white grease, it can be applied with a brush or from an aerosol can.
 

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