Replacing gaskets! Just wondering if there are any pointers anyone has? Both front and rear are leaking pretty bad. Got fluid drained and rear cover off No Problem. Need some tips on the front housing, I've already got the driveshaft flange removed.
Rear Differential
- Thread starter JGIB
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You'll need to pull the axleshafts to get the diff out.
You might as well change out the rear axle seals, and maybe the bearings while you're in there.
You might as well change out the rear axle seals, and maybe the bearings while you're in there.
You will need to pull the axles. from the rear of the differential remove the pinion shaft by first removing the shaft set pin. Once the shaft is out you need to remove the "C" clips that hold each axle shaft in. When the C clips are removed you can pull the axle shafts out, but you probably need to first remove the brake drums or at least loosen the brakes so the drums will come attached to the axle. However, it's probably easier to re-install the axles with the drums off. Once the axles are out, you can remove all the bolts that hold the third member in and remove it.
While you're in there you might as well replace the rear axle seals and you should consider replacing the rear wheel bearings.
While you're in there you might as well replace the rear axle seals and you should consider replacing the rear wheel bearings.
Where is the rear leaking? From just the cover or from the third as well? Any from the pinion seal?
For the front you'll need to pull the wheels and tires, pull the locking hubs and the spindles. From there pull out the birfs/inner axles. Then you'll be able to drop the third member out. Keep asking questions!
For the front you'll need to pull the wheels and tires, pull the locking hubs and the spindles. From there pull out the birfs/inner axles. Then you'll be able to drop the third member out. Keep asking questions!
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for the tips! Leals seem to be coming just from the cover. I couldn't see any seepage at the pinion seal. So, once the axles come out- the third and all the gearing will come out with it? Will the c- clips and set pin need to be replaced as well as the rear axle seals and bearings. I'm a FREAK about tearing my rig apart and not having parts to put it back together QUICKLY! Thank you guys again for all the suggestions.
its super easy dude. you will see what all has to come out once you start to look at it a lil more.
the front is the hardest as stated above the inner axles need to come out of the third so it will drop out but if you have ever re-packed a birf or did a knuckle rebuild then you know how to do that already.
also if you knuckles are leaking now would be a decent time to replace the seals and gaskets since its apart (if you have replacements available that is)
have fun!
the front is the hardest as stated above the inner axles need to come out of the third so it will drop out but if you have ever re-packed a birf or did a knuckle rebuild then you know how to do that already.
also if you knuckles are leaking now would be a decent time to replace the seals and gaskets since its apart (if you have replacements available that is)
have fun!
Yep, once you pull the axles and unbolt the 3rd, it'll come out. It's probably stuck on pretty good, so you'll have to pry it off. It weighs about 65 lbs, make sure you're ready for it!
The c-clip and the pin don't need to be replaced. You just need the paper gasket, cork gasket, axles seals and axle bearings (optional).
The c-clip and the pin don't need to be replaced. You just need the paper gasket, cork gasket, axles seals and axle bearings (optional).
or RTV...
thats all i use on my dif seals and never any leaks. pain to clean sometimes but that all varies in what kind you use (blue, gray black orange... the high temo orange is my favorite as it can be used for everything and its even "o2 sensor safe")
thats all i use on my dif seals and never any leaks. pain to clean sometimes but that all varies in what kind you use (blue, gray black orange... the high temo orange is my favorite as it can be used for everything and its even "o2 sensor safe")
Are both diffs leaking, or just the rear? The front a little more complicated than the rear ,but like CruisinFJ60 said it's easy.
One tip: On the rear diff, be sure to confirm that the threads on the studs in the housing are good BEFORE you try to put the diff back in. Some of mine had rock damage and I did not discover it until after I had the gasket all gooped up and the diff back in place. The gasket is fragile and if you tear it, it will cost you some down time. Bad studs can easily be replaced ahead of time but there really is not enough room to re-thread them once the diff is in place.
If it is just the cover leaking you don't need to pull the third. (pst... there is no cover on the front)
