I'm trying to decide what i should do to my rear diff. Do you guys recommend a locker like an Aussie or just welding the spider gears?
rear diff locker or weld it? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter KRC73
- Start date
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welding will make your truck push through corners on pavement but it's cheap. And I am going to assume you are at a greater risk of carnage.
A locker will be a little more street freindly just a pop sound now and again.
I have been debating this for a while. I have decided to weld my spiders to start with that way i can get something for the front. then if I don't like it I will just buy another third and put a locker in it.
A locker will be a little more street freindly just a pop sound now and again.
I have been debating this for a while. I have decided to weld my spiders to start with that way i can get something for the front. then if I don't like it I will just buy another third and put a locker in it.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! You should be able to find a lunch box locker under $300, but welding is just about free. Depends on how and where you want to drive your rig. If you are on the street a lot, especially parking lots, then go for the locker. A welded rear will chirp a lot and make steering a hassle sometimes. It will want to go straight ALL the time. I really like my LockRight. Got over 10 years on it without any problems. John
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
I agree with inkpot..
A Lockright or an Ausssie are an inexpensive investment...
IMO, the only way to go.
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
X3 for the Lockrite or Aussie Locker option.
Regards,
Alan
X3 for the Lockrite or Aussie Locker option.
Regards,
Alan
If you have stock inner axles in your rig I don't recommend you weld the spider. If they are upgraded cro-moly axles I don't imagine you will have any problems. The big question is where do you wheel? If you are wheeling in very tight ravines like the Hammers, you will probably want a rear end that slips when it needs to just for making those tight turns between rocks and the ravine wall.
Lockers are designed to LOCK under any power....cornering, stuck, climbing rocks, turning, etc...
For a rig that you street at all, then a autolocker like the Aussie is a good choice...when you come into a turn, you 'back off' the throttle to unload the locker and allow the rear tires to turn at different speeds.
If your rig is nearly 100% trail use (like my FJ40) then welded spiders are great. I have zero complaints with mine, and it's been installed for years.
I finally broke my first rear axle shaft a month ago...after 4-5 years with a welded diff. 39" tires, and I don't back outta much...
Autolockers will 'bang' into the locked position when the power is applied...one CAN argue that that shock load is harder on the axle shafts and drivetrain than a solidly welded rear diff where no shock load is possible....
no clue if that's the case, but....
Now, get yourself on the highway once and feel the 'locker lane change'....when the gears unlock at 60mph because your tires aren't EXACTLY the same diameter and the locker needs to unload...and you change lanes abruptly....been there, experienced that, with two different brands of rear autolockers.
For a rig that you street at all, then a autolocker like the Aussie is a good choice...when you come into a turn, you 'back off' the throttle to unload the locker and allow the rear tires to turn at different speeds.
If your rig is nearly 100% trail use (like my FJ40) then welded spiders are great. I have zero complaints with mine, and it's been installed for years.
I finally broke my first rear axle shaft a month ago...after 4-5 years with a welded diff. 39" tires, and I don't back outta much...
Autolockers will 'bang' into the locked position when the power is applied...one CAN argue that that shock load is harder on the axle shafts and drivetrain than a solidly welded rear diff where no shock load is possible....
no clue if that's the case, but....
Now, get yourself on the highway once and feel the 'locker lane change'....when the gears unlock at 60mph because your tires aren't EXACTLY the same diameter and the locker needs to unload...and you change lanes abruptly....been there, experienced that, with two different brands of rear autolockers.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks guys. My cruisers see off the pavement once or twice a month, I'm 17 and I live down in Georgia outside Atlanta, I got tired of my open diffs in my last wheeling trip, i was testing out my new 350 horse lt1 and going up a fairly steep creek side i spun and got stuck and was kinda embarrassed to have to call a jeep to come give me a quick pull.
thanks for all the tips I will most likely go with the aussie or lockright i just gotta mow a couple more lawns.
thanks
-kenny
thanks for all the tips I will most likely go with the aussie or lockright i just gotta mow a couple more lawns.
thanks
-kenny
how about arb the only way to go
another vote for the aussie .
a welded rear is more predictable on the street because it will always act the same were a locker will unlock on occasion , it doesn't faze me but if some one else drove my vehicle they might freak out if they herd a loud crack and the ass end kick out .
arb is the best but also 3x the price of a aussie
a welded rear is more predictable on the street because it will always act the same were a locker will unlock on occasion , it doesn't faze me but if some one else drove my vehicle they might freak out if they herd a loud crack and the ass end kick out .
arb is the best but also 3x the price of a aussie
landcruiserrich
Bench Wheeler
just put an Aussie in the rear diff of my buddy's 4 runner. Not noticeable on pavement and awesome offroad! I'm never running an open diff again after seeing what we could climb up in 2 wheel drive! Pretty easy install too.
mini-spool for a GM 12 bolt will replace your spider gears and is nothing but solid metal. The only problem is that any way you go you are still stuck with the C-Clips 
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
And much more expensive. Also requires more maintenance than an auto locker.
love my air lockers have been through the welded route but found it was a pain in the ass on tight turns on hard surface like rock or in a car park and wouldnt want to steer in the wet on small roundabouts just kept heading straight also when i had to turn lock to lock while standing still on a hard surface while offroad i had to get out and unlock one of the front hubs make the turn then relock the hub, this was before the ps conversion though. the lockrite was good until i did the spring over then the unlocking on the freeway was just too scary, ok with new tyres but i had to swap on a spare once that had less tread didnt even think of it untill the back end jumped out big time on the way home, had to throw throw my favorite pair of undies away. finaly bit the bullet and went for the air lockers just started with the rear first then got one up front when i found out how good the rear one was, i can control when the difs are locked that means handles good on the street and when i need it all locked up makes a much more pleasent drive
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
I have a lockrite in my SOA Pig on 35" MTRs. I have NEVER had a problem with it unlocking and causing unwanted lane changes.
12 bolt mini spool
We stock the 12 bolt mini spools and many have used them in their land cruiser diffs, solid pieces, easy to install and about $100 bucks.
We stock the 12 bolt mini spools and many have used them in their land cruiser diffs, solid pieces, easy to install and about $100 bucks.
longer wheelbase helps...I know of a few local guys with Aussie/Lockrite/whatever lockers in the rear who have occasionally noticed the issue....stock 90" (or close) wheelbase tho.
Setting up the locker 'tighter' with new side gear shims/washers will make it more noticeable...using the ones that were in there when you pulled the original gears out will make it 'looser'
I always set mine tight
I run the Aussie in my front axle...love it. Have busted a chromo inner axle (Poly Perf) and have shattered the 300M star in my Longfield...locker held just fine.
Always wanted to experiment with the 12-bolt spool tho....someday
Interesting to know. I think I have one laying around somewhere that I may have to use on my 40.
I recc spool or welded after I spent $450 on a Detroit for the rear of my 4runner that never unlocked. Ever since I have put lockers in the front and welded or spooled the rear. Some all offroad and some mainly street never had a issue.
