Rear diff lock wiring/fuse/controller help (1 Viewer)

[mr111]

Rear actuator does not work. Switch works since the dash light blinks and breaker does switch because it can be heard behind the dash, but there is no voltage at the actuator connector, not even momentarily. I have read tons of archives and can't find out if there is or isn't a fuse and where the controller is located or what it looks like. If the breaker is making noise, can it still be the fuse? Also, I'm not getting continuity between the ground (white with black stripe) and anything on the frame. I'm fast approaching the end of my electrical prowess, so if someone can help me diagnose this step by step I would appreciate it. I'd really like to get this sorted out before it gets too cold to work on it when I'll actually need it.

 

[jclarke450]

I believe there is a wiring harness connection that runs behind the drivers side trim piece in the cargo area, I have seen them come apart before and the locker seems to be the first thing to stop working. Followed by the brake lights. Just another place to check besides the usual.

 

[DutchCruiser]

I have the same problem with my rear diff lock, but mine works sometimes. When I haven't used the locker in a long time it will engage, but it won't disengage. So I lifted the rear wheels to test the locker and it will engage and disengage about five times. After that is doesn't work anymore. I measured the voltage over the connector of the actuator and there is no voltage. The actuator is new and works fine when the actuator is connected to a battery. I've also tried to disconnect the batteries for some time, but that did not work.
There is a 4wd control module at the passenger side at the right side underneath the glovebox. I have read that it also controls the rear diff lock. The part number is: 89533-60090.
I hope you find a solution for the power problem. I let you know when I have new information.

 

[LC1999]

Any updates on this?

 

[uHu]

- RDL only works in low range. (unless you mod it)
- The mechanism gets stuck if not used regularly.
- The actuator doesn't last forever, depending on weather and salt conditions. As it is made up of several different metals, and very exposed, both the housing and the motor will corrode. Max lifespan around here is 8 years.

 

[mr111]

Update. It was not the wiring after all, I must have measured the wrong pins on the connector since I was able to read a voltage when I got back into it. The actuator was indeed corroded to a point I did not think was recoverable. The case corroded away from the cap leaving an 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap, the armature was seized into the cap and the whole assembly was filled solid with rust, dirt, etc. The brush leads were down to a strand and broke off while trying to clean it the springs were long gone and the bearing was seized solid. Every screw snapped off because they were welded to the case so I drilled them all back out and retapped them. Believe it or not I was able to nurse the actuator back to health and it is presently working but it was a struggle. I've been meaning to document the repair but never got around to it. I wish I took a before picture because it would have been horrifying, but I honestly didn't think there was a prayer so it was mostly tinkering until I actually started to see the light at the end of the tunnel and started snapping pics. There is truly not a state of disrepair on these actuators that can't be made to work and mine is living proof. I'll start a new thread and document all the tricks to getting this actuator working since I think it'll help some of folks as cheap and stubborn as myself resurrect their actuators.

 

[LC1999]

Thanks for replying! Everything helps! If you don't mind posting up some tips and tricks that would be awesome.
Mine will not disengage for the life of me!

Thanks again