rear defroster broke can't see !!! (1 Viewer)

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Fsm addresses this. Sounds exactly like mine. You will need a multi-meter, foil, and a product to restore your lines, or adhere your "terminals" to the window.
 
Mine failed a few years ago. I solved it by installing a fridge, tire carrier and ladder. If that does not block your vision enough add a large dog.:p You will then no loner notice the defroster problem.:grinpimp:

Other than that I'm no help. I tested voltage at both terminals and it was good. I'm not sure how all of the grid failed all at once but whatever. :bang:. If you need a barrier for that dog mod I'm you man.
 
I measured the resistance in mine at something like 75 ohms. I thought I read somewhere it was supposed to be a few ohms maybe.
I can't find any cracks or cuts that are obvious, and the terminals look good on the sides.
I think mine simply got turned on on a hot day and got cooked. What happens when you add a couple hundred watts to something that is already blazing hot (black cruiser with tinted winders in the summer)? Probably keep people from leaning on your truck... until it burned up.
My tint is fried near a couple of the lines in the middle. Probably the last to burn up.
If I had heated mirrors I wouldn't think about it, but I like a clear back window, and when it has frost, I don't have it.
I'm interested in your new grid approach. Glass wasn't cheap when I checked.
 
Mine failed a few years ago. I solved it by installing a fridge, tire carrier and ladder. If that does not block your vision enough add a large dog.:p You will then no loner notice the defroster problem.:grinpimp:

Other than that I'm no help. I tested voltage at both terminals and it was good. I'm not sure how all of the grid failed all at once but whatever. :bang:. If you need a barrier for that dog mod I'm you man.


HAHAHA!!! :lol::lol::lol::clap:
 
A temporary, somewhat adequate workaround until things get sorted out is to run the Rear Heater. When I had a FJ55, that was the only rear defrost I had.
 
A fan blowing across the window is supposed to help.

I am in the same boat - high resistance and no obvious faults.

i believe someone here has used the frostfighter.com clearview II grid replacement. Involves using a razor to scrape the old grid off.
 
i believe someone here has used the frostfighter.com clearview II grid replacement. Involves using a razor to scrape the old grid off.

That's the ones I was looking at. They also make a smaller unit that goes on the front windshield where the wipers park. I thought it would be cool to wire them both to the defrost switch.
 
You can pick them up on Amazon, or I think I've seen them in the local auto parts store, too....



 
That's the ones I was looking at. They also make a smaller unit that goes on the front windshield where the wipers park. I thought it would be cool to wire them both to the defrost switch.

get some mirror defroster pads while you're at it. There's a guy in bulgaria or something who sells them on ebay. or you can buy the mirror assembles off my '07 gti that mysteriously lost their glass. cheap. and figure out how to separate the heater pad from the framing.
 
A fan blowing across the window is supposed to help.

I am in the same boat - high resistance and no obvious faults.

i believe someone here has used the frostfighter.com clearview II grid replacement. Involves using a razor to scrape the old grid off.
I used this and it worked pretty good for about six months and then began to fail. I would fix it only to have it go bad every month or so until I stopped trying and pealed it off after a year and a half. Others may have had better luck but it did not work for me.

Im thinking something like this might work,

http://www.amazon.com/Peak-PKC0J5-1..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1V2XE9GJ16SEMF78BSKK

Last i checked a factory tint rear window was $800.
 
I used this and it worked pretty good for about six months and then began to fail. I would fix it only to have it go bad every month or so until I stopped trying and pealed it off after a year and a half. Others may have had better luck but it did not work for me.

Im thinking something like this might work,

http://www.amazon.com/Peak-PKC0J5-12-Volt-Heater-Defroster/dp/B0066IUDSY/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=412W1LMsRKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1V2XE9GJ16SEMF78BSKK

Last i checked a factory tint rear window was $800.

Yeah. I might try that fan this winter. I bet i could work out a way to mount it where the 3rd row seat belt would be hanging if i hadn't removed it.

I think the reasonable solution is probably one of the frost fighter replacement kits and a lot of time with a razor blade.

Pickup Truck Rear Window Defroster :Clear View
 
Yeah. I might try that fan this winter. I bet i could work out a way to mount it where the 3rd row seat belt would be hanging if i hadn't removed it.

I think the reasonable solution is probably one of the frost fighter replacement kits and a lot of time with a razor blade.

Pickup Truck Rear Window Defroster :Clear View
Thats where I was thinking of mounting it. i went ahead and ordered one to see if they are worth the trouble. I will keep you updated but they look pretty cheep and the reviews are not good.

If someone has had a frost fighter unit that lasted more than a year please let us know, I would be glad to try them again but my last experience was not good.
 
Thats where I was thinking of mounting it. i went ahead and ordered one to see if they are worth the trouble. I will keep you updated but they look pretty cheep and the reviews are not good.

If someone has had a frost fighter unit that lasted more than a year please let us know, I would be glad to try them again but my last experience was not good.


About to dive into trying to have more than 2 lines work on my rear defroster. Any updates with your fan install idea?
 
I installed the fan but I have not wired it up yet......


I just drilled a hole the size of the rear seat belt mounting bolt thru the supplied fan base. I have been testing this for a month or so and it seems to be ok. I did not want to wire it up and have have the thing brake off right away.

For wiring I will set it up with a good switched power supply from my amp and rear camera wiring that is already in the right rear quarter. It will be operated by a relay triggered by the rear window defroster wiring. This way it will operate thru the existing defroster switch but have its own power supply and I don’t need to run any new wires from the front of the rig to the back.
 
I have an old Permatex kit for fixing small breaks in the lines.

I think it's just ground up copper & clearcoat - it's like copper paint/nail polish in a tiny bottle.

I bought it forever ago, pre-internet.
 

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