Rear Bearing woes

[sandcrawler]

Hey, I'm in the midst of a rear axle rebuild, and I'm having tons of trouble installing the rear bearings - mostly it involves getting them to seat all the way in with out them getting totally out of shape. And I've ruined a set of them, and before I plunge forward and ruin a couple more, I was wondering if there was some "easy" trick to I could use to get them to seat properly and to push them all the way in.

The FSM specifies the use of a special tool, and of course i don't have one but i'm wondering if any one has come up with an easy solution?

Thanks!

 

[2mbb]

If you can find one of the seal and race installation sets with nine discs, I'm pretty sure the largest disc will fit the rear axle bearing: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95853

You might try putting the bearing in the bottom of your coldest freezer for a few hours. This should make it shrink just a little bit

 

[cruiser88]

Go with the harbor freight tool works perfectly along with the freezer trick.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I used the bad bearing and some wood to hammer in the new one. Make the old bearing smalled on a grinder so it does not rub while hammering it into the axle.

 

[Cruzerman]

I managed getting mine in with a PVC pipe connector. I took the bearing to the home supply store and found a PVC pipe connector that was the right diameter. I then put an end cap on the thing and used that as the drift to pound them in.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

i used the old bearing on mine since nothing else i had would fit right. i pulled all the bearing out cleaned it up then kit it with the grinder so it would slide in and out of the axle w/o having to fight it. worked great!!

 

[cruiser88]

Nice thing about the Harbor Freight tool is the round part that goes up against the bearing is plastic. But inbetween the plastic and the handle is a metal round piece that keeps from breaking the plastic when you beat on the handle.

 

[sandcrawler]

these are all good ideas; since i've already ruined a bearing or two in my somewhat lame attempts, i'm going to look at the harbor freight tool or i'll see if i can find something like that locally. baring that, i'll just go after the old bearing with a grinder and make up my own tool.

I'll feel better once I get both bearings replaced!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I used a socket the right size. I assume you are looking to drive in a rear semi-float bearing. No way you should ruin a set. They go right in with no freezing or other special issues. I think it was a Dana 60 hub socket that fit the best.

 

[sandcrawler]

I do tend to be pretty careful when i work on my rig, but this project has been snake-bite from the moment i started it - with the oil seal gone, i have to rebuild the brakes, and i figured while in there i should to the bearings and swap in the Aussie Locker i just got; sadly the bearing issues were the first things i had trouble with, and then i found out that my filler pug is completely rounded off - so i most likely need to get a new differential cover. I'll see if i can pick up one of those axle nut drivers easy.

Thanks!

 

[jwest]

A pair of vise grips with good teeth will take care of that diff plug.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

A pair of vise grips with good teeth will take care of that diff plug.

air hammer also works great.

 

[goodtwin]

x3 on the grinding down the old bearing and using it as your tool to pound in the new one. No problems. Drove it right in. Those rear axle bearings are tight mothers.

 

[sandcrawler]

Yeah, I have a few days until I get my new bearings, so I think I'll grind down the old one and use it to drive in the new one. ANd yeah, they are tight mothers!

 

[teejnut]

Saw this thread when I was searching for tips on installing the new bearing/race. So wanted to add to the thread for future references.

I was going to use the grind old bearing method but when I was at AutoZone to rent a slide hammer I noticed they had bearing driver set for rental too. Kind of like the Harbor Freight one. Worked great and it was free! So much easier then using brass drifts.