Rear AC Line Replacement (1 Viewer)

[filer5000]

TLDR: Can someone send me links to a replacement 2007 Land Cruiser rear AC tubing? (Both suction and refrigerant sides)

Hi everyone,

Just recently purchased a 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser. Its been really awesome so far but the issue thats bothering me is the AC. As some of you may know, its common for the rear AC line to rust and eventually leak refrigerant. In my case, its been a problem for long enough that there's no longer anything in there.

Im looking to try and find replacement lines for this... but i am having a hard time finding both the suction and refrigerant sides of the tubing and wanted to ask if you guys knew anything to help. Im thinking about purchasing both sides of the line so that I can start fresh and not have to worry about diagnosing which line is leaking and it would also allow me to start fresh and have no worry about future possible damages.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can find part numbers (and order them) on a site like partssouq.com, just enter your VIN.

 

[kevgentile]

TLDR: Can someone send me links to a replacement 2007 Land Cruiser rear AC tubing? (Both suction and refrigerant sides)

Hi everyone,

Just recently purchased a 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser. Its been really awesome so far but the issue thats bothering me is the AC. As some of you may know, its common for the rear AC line to rust and eventually leak refrigerant. In my case, its been a problem for long enough that there's no longer anything in there.

Im looking to try and find replacement lines for this... but i am having a hard time finding both the suction and refrigerant sides of the tubing and wanted to ask if you guys knew anything to help. Im thinking about purchasing both sides of the line so that I can start fresh and not have to worry about diagnosing which line is leaking and it would also allow me to start fresh and have no worry about future possible damages.

Just an fyi and why most will either delete the rear a/c or have custom lines made.
Most of the lines are difficult to remove, even when deleting the entire system as I did. The rear most section of hard line runs above the rear frame/suspension and near, if not, totally impossible to install new lines without disassembling most of the rear exhaust and axle components.

It gets a little easier as you move along towards the front but be prepared to replace them all as it is highly possible for the line fittings to seize due to the combination of steel and alloy threaded sections. In an attempt to save some of my lines to offer to others in need I still had to destroy them all due to seized fittings.

If it's a diy job have at it, but if paying a shop it'll get pricey real fast.

 

[filer5000]

Just an fyi and why most will either delete the rear a/c or have custom lines made.
Most of the lines are difficult to remove, even when deleting the entire system as I did. The rear most section of hard line runs above the rear frame/suspension and near, if not totally impossible to install new lines without disassembling most of the rear exhaust and axle components.

It gets a little easier as you move along towards the front but be prepared to replace them all as it is highly possible for the line fittings to seize due
to the combination of steel and alloy threaded sections. In an attempt to save some of my lines to offer to others in need I still had to destroy them all due to seized fittings.

I had anticipated dropping the mufler but didnt realize other parts of the axles were required. I have an urge to keep the rear AC working, but if its going to be more work than what I bargain for, i might think otherwise.
Can you clarify if capping it effects the middle seat or just the rears?

 

[kevgentile]

I had anticipated dropping the mufler but didnt realize other parts of the axles were required. I have an urge to keep the rear AC working, but if its going to be more work than what I bargain for, i might think otherwise.
Can you clarify if capping it effects the middle seat or just the rears?

The rear system only feeds the upper ducts at the third row and the two upper vents at the second row, one on each side. I have never used the rear system but plenty on here have enjoyed having it in the warmer parts of the country. Others haven't missed it once deleted. I'm a rarity since I don't even use the main a/c up front since I've always been a 455 forever.

You can find a local hose and fitting shop like Cauliflower and they can make you a line set made of proper soft line that you can slide in place.
The problem is that the oem hard lines don't just slide in/out since that have a lot of bends and need to be rotated in a variety of positions as you snake them out. Oem is nice if you have the time and patience but most don't and have to resort to paying a shop so the practical solution is as mentioned above.

 

[baltistyle]

I absolutely love the rear conditioning and heat. Your passengers will thank you. With one person it may not be to bad, but load up the car with people and or animals and the front gets overwhelmed. Yes it’s cold as can be for the front, but not the very back. I also find having the rear unit working helps with conditioning of the windows for fog etc. since the unit pulls air from under the driver seat or the rear corner, it also helps with recirculating from back to front or front to back.

Imo, fix it but you may need some custom work done to make it easier.

 

[Coin]

You can replace the rear lines without removing any parts. I just watched a YouTube video yesterday of a guy doing it.

 

[filer5000]

You can replace the rear lines without removing any parts. I just watched a YouTube video yesterday of a guy doing it.

Can you send the video to me?

 

[Gnarwgn]

I chose to keep mine alive by replacing the line. Its within reach, just plan to spend a sweaty afternoon in awkward positions under your rig fishing the replacement line thru your frame. The job is pretty straightforward - assuming there is no pressure in the line - you remove the 3 or 4 clamps that progress down the line from the frame. A bolt holds the line in on both ends (front and rear). In addition to the line, you will need new clips, screws, and get new insulator piping because all of that is probably toast at this point. And if its not, good chance you'll snap the clamps when you remove them.

The key to the job is not snapping the new line. Fortunately it has a little flexibility, just enough to allow you to maneuver it through the frame as necessary. When I was getting the new line in place, I kept both hands on the line at all times to make sure I wasn't putting too much stress on it as I maneuvered it around. I think I had to remove my spare to get more room in the back during install. Once in place, you bolt it back up with the new clamps, and recharge the system. In my case I also ended up needing to replace the ac compressor as it was making a growling/gurgling noise, and I figured it wasn't helping the equation. Has blown cold with no issues for the past year. Good sale going on at Serra Toyota of Decatur right now, you can probably beat this pricing (this is for a 2001 btw, so might not be exactly the same for you but its close, figure out specifics on partsouq):

 

[ben322]

It's kind of a rabbit hole problem as older lines don't come apart without destroying the next one down the line. I had one line leaking behind the RH front tire, (not good placement for an AC line), and ended up replacing all the lines & evaporator. Had I known this upfront I would have thought twice but now that rear AC cools down the entire truck really fast so the pain of chasing all the lines is a distant memory.

 

[TheRealPoser]

Does anyone have any tips or know of a write-up/video on checking the refrigerant pressure in the rear system? I'm wondering if my rear AC is not working. In the summer in 100+ deg temps my LC stays cool. However, I've been struggling a lot with all the rear windows fogging up in the winter. I've been on a witch hunt for water leaks, I fixed some and can't find any others, yet if people get in the car with damp coats, etc, in the winter it's a lost cause to try and keep the rear windows clear from fog, even with the AC running continuously for an hour or more. Ironically, living in the Seattle area I don't really care most of the time if the AC works in the summer, but in the winter it's a must-have for clearing the windows because it's damp all the time.

Before I start ordering and replacing parts I'd like to determine if the AC is working properly. It's hard to tell right now because it's 30 deg F out so the rear blows cold no matter what...

Also, is it correct to assume the rear refrigerant system is isolated from the front? If not then my theory that it's working in the front and not the back seems bunk.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Does anyone have any tips or know of a write-up/video on checking the refrigerant pressure in the rear system? I'm wondering if my rear AC is not working. In the summer in 100+ deg temps my LC stays cool. However, I've been struggling a lot with all the rear windows fogging up in the winter. I've been on a witch hunt for water leaks, I fixed some and can't find any others, yet if people get in the car with damp coats, etc, in the winter it's a lost cause to try and keep the rear windows clear from fog, even with the AC running continuously for an hour or more. Ironically, living in the Seattle area I don't really care most of the time if the AC works in the summer, but in the winter it's a must-have for clearing the windows because it's damp all the time.

Before I start ordering and replacing parts I'd like to determine if the AC is working properly. It's hard to tell right now because it's 30 deg F out so the rear blows cold no matter what...

Also, is it correct to assume the rear refrigerant system is isolated from the front? If not then my theory that it's working in the front and not the back seems bunk.

Also in the Seattle area. Also have struggled with this issue. I would suspect a leak, and I would check 3rd brake light and the contact of the wiring boot to the rear gate, at the top. This issue haunted me for awhile until 1) I installed a new 3rd brake light and added a perimeter of butyl and 2) adjusted the wiring boot contact to gate and added a perimeter of butyl. If that doesn't sound right - I'd wonder if you are getting AC in the back at all? If not, I'd suspect the rear AC line that runs from front to back along the passenger side, which I've also replaced. Once replaced, everything worked again. I had both of these issues happening at the same time which made it extra confusing, sounds like you might be in the same boat.

 

[TheRealPoser]

Also in the Seattle area. Also have struggled with this issue. I would suspect a leak, and I would check 3rd brake light and the contact of the wiring boot to the rear gate, at the top. This issue haunted me for awhile until 1) I installed a new 3rd brake light and added a perimeter of butyl and 2) adjusted the wiring boot contact to gate and added a perimeter of butyl. If that doesn't sound right - I'd wonder if you are getting AC in the back at all? If not, I'd suspect the rear AC line that runs from front to back along the passenger side, which I've also replaced. Once replaced, everything worked again. I had both of these issues happening at the same time which made it extra confusing, sounds like you might be in the same boat.

Thanks for the tip @Gnarwgn. In the name of not hijacking this threat I didn't give many details. I was considering a separate thread but it just happened this thread was on the topic. Short story is I think it's possible I have some leaks in the upper rear hatch. There is some rust forming around the drains and the latch assembly so it was at least wet in there in the past. Shortly after I got the LC I pulled the 3rd light and sealed the bejeebers out of it when I reinstalled it, but I didn't do anything with the wiring boot, so I'll look into that. I also redid the wing mounting hardware and sealed it up. I was out last weekend in the mountains getting a Christmas tree, it didn't rain or snow the whole time. On the way out there was no fogging, but on the way back with a small soggy tree in the back the whole place was fogged up for the entire drive home with the AC on the entire time, really annoying. I won't be surprised if I have the rear AC leak and at least one other minor leak.

Where is the right point to check the rear line pressures if I don't see a leak? I'll take the blacklight to it when I'm home too, I haven't tried that.