Real Time- Rod Bearing Carnage
- Thread starter CruisinGA
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
Onur - probably a Cummins 6BT or some other diesel. My 80 is primarily a tow/highway vehicle and the 1FZ doesn't have enough power for towing, it gets poor mileage, and I want to start playing around with alternative fuels.
Doug- Same thing, if I have to yank this engine, I'm not putting another 1FZ in. As it stands, I'm getting it fixed for $260 and a lot of my time. I doubt I could find a good 1FZ for that little money.
Doug- Same thing, if I have to yank this engine, I'm not putting another 1FZ in. As it stands, I'm getting it fixed for $260 and a lot of my time. I doubt I could find a good 1FZ for that little money.
Yeah, I see that but my concern is you'll put this thing back together and it will have bearing noise, rod knock or burn oil - or all three - to the degree it won't be worth doing.
Hey, why not be the first to put a 22RE in, add a synchro between hi/low range and have an 8 speed automatic 4 cylinder 80 that gets 20mpg?? j/k.
DougM
Hey, why not be the first to put a 22RE in, add a synchro between hi/low range and have an 8 speed automatic 4 cylinder 80 that gets 20mpg?? j/k.
DougM
When it comes to engines I'm a minimalist. Get a valve grind kit, slipper and bearings and just tear the stuff off, clean it up and slap it back togther. Done in a weekend and it will probably last another 150k.
- Thread starter
- #26
Doug- I hear your concerns. However, now that we know what really happened (low pressure due to tensioner not lack of oil) we can infer that everything probably stayed "wet" instead of going bone dry. The main bearings really don't show any more wear than expected for the mileage, and the cylinder walls from what I've seen look good. Honestly, there's not really any reason this engine won't be just as good if not better than before the incident. (At the least it won't leak nearly as much oil!)
Rick- I'm going to take your minimalism one step further and only fix exactly what's broken, the chain tensioner and rod/main bearings.
Honestly, if I had taken off the valvecover first and found the real problem, I probably wouldn't even be replacing the rod/main bearings.
Rick- I'm going to take your minimalism one step further and only fix exactly what's broken, the chain tensioner and rod/main bearings.
Honestly, if I had taken off the valvecover first and found the real problem, I probably wouldn't even be replacing the rod/main bearings.
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Rick- I'm going to take your minimalism one step further and only fix exactly what's broken, the chain tensioner and rod/main bearings.
Check with Cruiserdan. There are some inexpensive parts in there. I'm thinking of the oil pump relief valve; IIRC, its just a spring.
-B-
- Thread starter
- #28
hm that is worth replacing while I'm in there.
My parts are already en route from Dan, I guess I'll have to see if the local stealer can get me that.
My parts are already en route from Dan, I guess I'll have to see if the local stealer can get me that.
- Thread starter
- #30
What's the part number on that spring, Doug?
Don't steal my business Dougie. Dan gives me a commission on every up-sell that I send him.
-B-
.. unless you have the fingertips of a safe cracker ... feeling "valleys" suggest that post #5 is the likely prognosis. Generally valley like wear on a crank journal will not allow for the proper lubrication cushion you need. Have you checked the wrist pins as well?
