Real time question - in over my head

[pfran42]

Do you use the Animated Knots by Grog | How to Tie Knots | Fishing, Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Search and Rescue, Household, Decorative, Rope Care, iphone app to tie your shoes?

No, I use the LMGTFY app a lot though.

http://lmgtfy.com/

Its 2011 people...Get with the program.

(Ha...not sure if that URL will come through correctly as I am doing all of this from a smartphone)

 

[1loudLX]

Do you use the Animated Knots iphone app to tie your shoes?

winning

 

[pfran42]

winning

Thanks Charlie.

 

[City Cruzer]

Day 4 update - been working on the Cruiser everyday this week. Little-by-little it's getting done. Today, I went through it and packed every electrical connector I could find with dielectric grease (not overkill though). it is aired out and this 90 degree Cali heat did its job drying (lucked out there). I've been poking around sniffing the seats and carpets that are drying in the backyard and there is no noticable odor. I'm sure they will smell great once I've steam cleaned the carpets and conditioned the seats.

This has been a bitter-sweet experience for sure. On one hand, I hate that I did this to my Cruiser. It has been the most reliable, safe, and fun car I've ever owned (really not an example of how to take care of something you appreciate). On the other hand, I've become very intimate with the way its put together and appreciate it more now. I know that its electrical is sealed a bit better, will be running vents from the diffs, and coming up abotu 2 inches, with snorkel. Coming from jeeps, it's hard to believe, by looking at a 100 that it tears down and drains as easy as it does. And, now that its all a apart, I have the chance to do some things that I've always wanted to do but, in reality, would probably never have gotten to. I think I'm going to take advantage of it being stripped down and add some sound proofing and run some electrical for radios (getting my HAM license).

Well, I wanted to share a few things that I've learned from this if anyone finds themselves in situation. First, don't panic....haha easier said than done. But, don't start the vehicle like everyone here advises not to until you know what systems have been comprimised. Also, and this may be obvious to others, don't pull the plugs until you're sure there is no water in those deep chambers above the plugs. If you do, you may have water in a cylinder that didn't have water before. I was lucky enough to check and one was full of water. Which brings me to the second point. About 80,000 miles ago when I changed my plugs, one of those washers that fits around the coil pack slipped off and was lost. I think I recall trying to get one from the dealer but they aren't sold seperately. The point is, don't skimp or alter even the simplest things if it reduces the strength or reliability of your Cruiser. I skimped and said "what the heck, the cylinder is sealed by the plug and the coil pack was tight enough to keep things out. Well that was the only plug that was comprimised and I believe it contributed to the stall mid-stream. S****D I know. I didn't even want to share that lol but I'd be remiss if someone else suffered the same fate. Another neat trick, get a wetvac with a point on the hose and suck out the chambers before opening the plugs... then suck out the cylinder openings.

Tomorrow, I put the fully charged battery in and start it. I going to move it aboout 25 feet up the driveway into the garage and then drain the FD, RD, and TC. Will start reassembling the interior over the weekend.

One last note, I'm convinced any other vechicle would have been killed by this event!

 

[DallasCrzr]

One last note, I'm convinced any other vechicle would have been killed by this event!

Me too....

i had an 07 yukon in new orleans and driving through about 10 inches of water (the inside PS fender or whatever that piece is called inside the wheel well was missing) and water got in the engine, stalled it and completely killed the engine where I had to have it replaced. The wheel well piece prob would have prevented it but still...

 

[pfran42]

This thread is useless without....

 

[jttexam]

I may have glazed over it and missed someone else who recommended this, but in all of my wheeling years, when someone gulps water, or rolls over, the first thing we do, after rolling it back over of course, is remove the spark plugs and crank the engine. The pistons will spit all of that water/oil, depending on what you have in there, out of the spark plug holes in the head. Put the plugs back in and go. Has worked like a charm for years. Depending on how new this Cruiser is, it may think it is smarter than you and won't let the thing crank without the coilpacks pluged into the harness, so if you try it and it won't crank, plug the coilpacks into the harness, then try again.

This could also be a darn convenient time to go with that super sweet color matched spray in bedliner floor that you've always needed. If you do, spray in a sound deadener first.

 

[City Cruzer]

Nice yes i was thinking the same thing about cranking it with the plugs out. i went for tletting it sit in 90 degree weather with the hood open and plugs out. Came back and blew air in each cylinder. They all were bone dry. please let me know wher ei can get that spray-in bed liner and sound deadner.

 

[City Cruzer]

Today reconnected everything and installed new fuses. I'm so bummed because everything seems to be working fine but it won't start. There was no water in the engine so i don't think that is the problem. In fact, it is not even cranking the starter...just click click click coming from the starter relay. All the lights are working, the radio is acting a bit funny and static is coming through the speakers, the satellite box is toast i believe because the head unit isnt finding it. the seats are not in yet.

Here are the odd electrical things.

The Radio will stay on even after I take the key out. It has always gone off when the key is removed and for sure when the door is opened.

I don't hear the fan running for the front system I hear something but it doesnt seem to blowing.

When i try to start it with the lights on, they go completely out. i know it's not the battery because i took one out of my wife's lexus and tried it. still got the clicking but the lights did not go out. i evne tried to start it with a 75 amp starter pack. when that was connected to my battery the lights did not go out.

I'm thinking this is a relay. does anybody have any ideas? Also, there seems to be an extra connector near the kick panel but no place to connect it. There is also a socket in the fuse block inside but no connector to plug into.

I'm trying to post pics of these two.

 

[City Cruzer]

Let me know if you need another factory amp. I bypassed mine so I don't need it. I'll donate it to the cause if you pay the shipping on it...

I'd lay all your carpet out on a tarp and let it dry out good and give it a good shampooing... It may be fine after a good cleaning...

Sounds like you've made good progress tonight... Keep after it!

Thanks JgRay. I really appreciate you offering the stock Amp. How can I get it shipped to me because it looks like I'm going to need one?

 

[jttexam]

I don't know what to tell you about that electrical problem. Only one way that I know of to fix it, which is a beating. Start with a wiring diagram and start removing, cleaning and re-installing grounds. Then move on to do the same with molex connections, then start replacing relays/modules until your back to running. This is likely going to be tedious.

Insulation: Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Spray-on Formula
Bedliner: Herculiner, Rhino, and a myriad of knock-offs that are as good. Find one that has the color and price you like.

Do you have full coverage insurance? Silliness like this is covered, and this may be one time you want to consider that claim.

 

[City Cruzer]

I don't know what to tell you about that electrical problem. Only one way that I know of to fix it, which is a beating. Start with a wiring diagram and start removing, cleaning and re-installing grounds. Then move on to do the same with molex connections, then start replacing relays/modules until your back to running. This is likely going to be tedious.

Insulation: Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Spray-on Formula
Bedliner: Herculiner, Rhino, and a myriad of knock-offs that are as good. Find one that has the color and price you like.

Do you have full coverage insurance? Silliness like this is covered, and this may be one time you want to consider that claim.

Full coverage covers mishaps while driving offroad?

 

[City Cruzer]

Started again briefly

After verifying that there was no water in the engine and playing it safe letting it air out a couple of days, I tried starting it. It had the same click click sound and nothing.. then out of nowhere it started ran very rough with steam coming out of the tailpipe. it would not run without my foot on the gas to keep the idle up. when it i shut it off in a few minutes and walked around the back, there was a puddle of water that had sprayed form the tail pipe.

I'm thinking this is a pretty bad thing. is there a way for water to enter the engine from the tail pipe? Could this have fried the converter? I'm thinking maybe the oil needs to be changed given all the water in the tailpipe. what else? any other recommendations? i still don't understand why its so hard to start, like the starter isn't engaging at all. i guess it could have something to do with te water in the pipe, or maybe seperate issues.

 

[2000UZJ]

You need to change ALL fluids before starting and driving. Since the engine died in water you probably sucked water up the exhaust pipe.

 

[TheFuzz]

City, when in deep water, the only thing that keeps water from entering the tailpipe is the positive pressure generated by the exhaust as it exits. Once the engine dies under water, you have no more positive pressure and the water will find it's way in anywhere that gravity takes it. If you were on a downhill slant in the stream, chances are good that you had a pretty large amount of water go in the tailpipe - which was subsequently forced out when you fired the motor up.

Have you checked your fluids yet? You need to get everything that resides on the underside of the car changed out as soon as you can before starting it again. Especially the engine oil. I know you want to get it running again and I don't blame you, but curiosity can do more harm than good if your fluids have been compromised by water.

 

[City Cruzer]

City, when in deep water, the only thing that keeps water from entering the tailpipe is the positive pressure generated by the exhaust as it exits. Once the engine dies under water, you have no more positive pressure and the water will find it's way in anywhere that gravity takes it. If you were on a downhill slant in the stream, chances are good that you had a pretty large amount of water go in the tailpipe - which was subsequently forced out when you fired the motor up.

Have you checked your fluids yet? You need to get everything that resides on the underside of the car changed out as soon as you can before starting it again. Especially the engine oil. I know you want to get it running again and I don't blame you, but curiosity can do more harm than good if your fluids have been compromised by water.

Thanks Fuzz. I'm inspecting and changing all of the fuilds today. just got back form picknig up the oil and i have a question. is the gear oil for the Diffs and the transfer case the same? Both call for Gl-5 but the tranfer case is 75W-90W and the diffs are just 90W and call for something called Hypoid. I use mobil 1 synthetic in everything btw.

 

[jttexam]

Full coverage covers mishaps while driving offroad?

Yes, most policies. Call your agent and ask, you may find your anxiety level dropping significantly. Be sure and tell the truth. You didn't intentionally flood the car. Tell it the same way you told us. Also be prepared for them to total it, or at least try to. Just remember that their word is not the last. Everything with auto insurance is negotiable, so if they try to total it, decide what you want. If you want it fixed, then negotiate for that. If they total it and you don't want it totaled, negotiate accordingly. If they total it, then negotiate for the best payoff. Also, if they total it and pay you off, then decide if you are going to want to keep it with a salvage title, and negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle into the deal. If you don't want the salvage deal on it, someone here on this forum will, so post up if this happens.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[cmfhsu]

Depending on how new this Cruiser is, it may think it is smarter than you and won't let the thing crank without the coilpacks pluged into the harness, so if you try it and it won't crank, plug the coilpacks into the harness, then try again.

Early 100's will let you crank the engine with all coils removed. IDK about the new engines with VVT-I, but anything before '06 should be able to crank fine.

Always been under the impression that this was the proper procedure.

Also, always let off the gas if you think there's a shadow of a doubt of water going into your airbox.

Thanks Fuzz. I'm inspecting and changing all of the fuilds today. just got back form picknig up the oil and i have a question. is the gear oil for the Diffs and the transfer case the same? Both call for Gl-5 but the tranfer case is 75W-90W and the diffs are just 90W and call for something called Hypoid. I use mobil 1 synthetic in everything btw.

I've always used the same oil for all 3 diffs. Just make sure it says hypoid gear oil on the bottle. Mobil1 is always good-it's what I use.

 

[City Cruzer]

changing all the oils and inspecting

Well today i found some disheartening indicators:

• Engine oil was brown and milky but it didn't appear to have broken down maybe because it's mobil 1.
• Transfer case was milky as well.
• haven't gotten to the Diffs yet but I'm assuming the will be as well.
• Battery was tested and they say its good, just needs a charge which is understandable because of all the attempts to start. this means the starting issue is something else.
• oil filter was put on so tight, that it wouldn't come off. tried everything even removing the skid plate for more levergage and using an air filter wrench. Was hungry and tired, sore back, etc., and got impatient. Now it's damaged and leaking. From the looks of the oil, it has to come off and be replaced.

Anyway, trying to stay positive and keep making progress

 

[Skidoo]

Day 4 update -
...

Well, I wanted to share a few things that I've learned from this if anyone finds themselves in situation. First, don't panic....haha easier said than done. But, don't start the vehicle like everyone here advises not to until you know what systems have been comprimised.
...
Tomorrow, I put the fully charged battery in and start it. I going to move it aboout 25 feet up the driveway into the garage and then drain the FD, RD, and TC. Will start reassembling the interior over the weekend.

City, Sorry! this is not meant to be harsh on you,
but want save other folks in the future.

Would like add under your Don't Panic section.
DO NOT SKIP STEPS RECOMMENDED by the smart guys here.
Starting the engine is last thing to do.
If there is water in air box, there are No shortcuts!
To those of you that encounter this in the future let me restate.
When the engine is running there is a vacuum in the air box.
So if water has gotten that far, its bad.
Starting the engine is the last thing to do.
Getting water out of engine is first thing to do!



This means:

• The air system, air box, intake manifold, cylinders.Visually inspect, pull plugs and crank.
• Starter area, if drains in block are plugged, the "V" of engine can fill
• Oil - Drain it, in field, if no water, can put it back in.
• Drain transmission oil, in a very short time water will trash it.
• Clean & dry electrical components
• Check F & R Diff, T-case, etc

Do what City did to interior if it got wet, that's a good example.