real time help Oil leak from drain plug (1 Viewer)

[justin85-60]

I have a little issue. I have a pretty good size leak coming from my drain plug. It's not like it's flowing or anything, but a drip every 15-30 sec. That's a lot after a while. About two quarts in a week and a half. Changed the plug and gasket with a new one and still leaking. Ugghhh! Any advice on possible causes/solutions? Need help now.
PS Just had the oil changed at a local repair shop about two weeks ago, just didn't have time to do it myself. Kicking myself. This is when the leak started, but the guy was a d--- so I don't want to go back. The threads don't appear stripped as the new plug went in just fine, but the plug was in pretty da-- tight, so I don't know?
Any help would be great.

 

[fj60dave]

Can't tell you the wherefore or why, but I use cork gaskets that I make myself. I use a pipe and hammer to cut the bolt hole and shears to shape. They work.

 

[RockDoc]

Are you sure it is coming from the plug, or could it be seeping out from between the oil pan and the skid plate? I think a fair number of guys find rust and spot weld fatigue issues there when they pull their pans.

 

[cruiser88]

Are you sure it is coming from the plug, or could it be seeping out from between the oil pan and the skid plate? I think a fair number of guys find rust and spot weld fatigue issues there when they pull their pans.

x2

but if you are sure it is the drain plug they sell a plug/gasket at advance for like 3 bucks.

holds up well

 

[justin85-60]

I am sure it is the plug, wipe it clean and watch the drip form. Nothing from the pan skid plate. I have tried a new plug, new gasket, copper gasket. Starting to get a little frustrated.
With the cork, does it not rip as you torque the plug down? I asked about this at the parts store, but they said it would just rip? Where do you get the cork from?

Also it seems like the nut has some play side to side when I thread it in. Seems like the plug is a little too small. I have the right size plug, are my threads stripped even though it spins in just fine?

 

[2mbb]

It's the gasket that should be forming the seal, not the threads. It could be that your sealing surface is deformed (not flat) such that a seal can't be made. I've seen three different types of gaskets/crush washers, but I don't know which is best:

There is a flat washer usually made from a soft material--copper or aluminum. Toyota has been recently selling me these for the diff/transmission/transfer plugs. I also used a washer like this on oil pans for a VW and BMW engines.

There is a folded metal washer. made from a soft metal (aluminum). I think this is what was originally spec'd for the diff/transmission/transfer plugs.

There is a black "fiber" washer. This is what I get for the oil pan drain plug. It appears to have a similar ID, but a larger OD (larger sealing area). This may be required because the oil pan may not have a machined sealing surface like the diff/transmission/transfer.

Anyway, are you using this fiber washer? If so, something larger/softer may work--such as the cork recommendation.

 

[Rigger]

2mbb; this is a great missive about the different types of washers. Very educational.

My FJ62 tranny pan plug is now leaking, three days after changing the fluid! I think I need a new washer. The one on there appears to be the folded aluminum variety.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

2mbb; this is a great missive about the different types of washers. Very educational.

My FJ62 tranny pan plug is now leaking, three days after changing the fluid! I think I need a new washer. The one on there appears to be the folded aluminum variety.

I prefer copper washers to Ali they always seem to seal better and replace with new every time the oil is changed.

Just my 2c and about the cost of a new washer every time

Teflon tape at a must around the thread, I damaged a sump which streched the hole very slightly and even with a new washer still dripped tape sealed it.

 

[justin85-60]

I have tried the crush washer, the copper, and the regular "hard" washer (not sure what it is made of), no luck. Been trying to locate a fiber washer, but haven't yet. I did locate an oil pan from a mudder on here for a great price. I may go this route if I can't get a seal. Seems like overkill, but I can't deal with this anymore. New pan gasket and pan, no more leaks. That would be the hope and I guess a good long term plan. Plus if I can later figure out why this one leaks and fix it, I will have an extra, you know just in case.

 

[Dynosoar]

You could always put some thread sealer on the threads, this has worked for me in the past.


Dynosoar

 

[DirtyLittleSecret]

You could always put some tread sealer on the treads this has worked for me in the past.


Dynosoar

That's what I was thinking too. Just on the last half of the threads. Another alternative for the eternally anal (like myself) is to take one of the fibre seals and lube it up with SuperBlack RTV sealant just prior to tightening. Let it sit for a few hours before you fill with oil, and its good to go.

It's amazing what a little black latex can do...if you're into that sort of thing.

 

[justin85-60]

I was thinking that too, the rtv, but I don't usually have much time to let it sit. I usually have to do my oil changes as quick as possible. DD and one of our only two cars at the moment.

 

[forestdan7]

New pan gasket and pan, no more leaks. That would be the hope and I guess a good long term plan. Plus if I can later figure out why this one leaks and fix it, I will have an extra, you know just in case.

I got a new pan and gasket when my oil pump was replaced (my pressure was drastically low, now fixed). No more leaks from there, but then the rear main leaks, the timing gasket leaks, the side cover gasket leaks, etc., etc., so I really didn't get a leak free truck.

My old pan was slightly bent at the plug, and it wouldn't seal right. I used a rubber O-ring below a hard plastic gasket. The plastic pushes the rubber into the ding, sealing it just fine till the next oil change, when you need a new O-ring. Might help.

 

[mtb_rider]

It kinda sounds like there is a little dent or deformity in your pan, as someone already mentioned. The o-ring idea sounds like a good idea, or trying to find another plug gasket, probably of the fiber variety, that is thicker than the norm to try and fill the void?

On another note completely off the subject, nice avatar! I have that same pic on my computer.

 

[ssgoods]

You could always seal it up at the threads and change your oil through the dipstick by siphoning.

 

[cruiser88]

You could always seal it up at the threads and change your oil through the dipstick by siphoning.

Like Wallmart used to do?

 

[DirtyLittleSecret]

Like Wallmart used to do?

Like the technicians at Mercedes, Audi, VW, and Porshe sometimes do (depends on the dealerships, and whether they have contracted with PELA). Though I doubt Wally World Automotive used the same $7/Qt synthetics...or a quality extractor. I doubt they even trained the 13 year old illegals how to run the wet vac in the first place...

 

[Ducks]

I'm pretty sure that the left gasket is for the transfer case because it's aluminum. The middle one is for the diffs, tranny, and I also use it for the oil pan. When I've used softer gaskets on the oil pan, I had to rub the outside of the oil pan with a bit of oil so the gasket didn't tear when I tightened the plug down. Not sure I should be helping a duckling though ... (OSU Fight! Fight! Fight!)

It's the gasket that should be forming the seal, not the threads. It could be that your sealing surface is deformed (not flat) such that a seal can't be made. I've seen three different types of gaskets/crush washers, but I don't know which is best:

There is a flat washer usually made from a soft material--copper or aluminum. Toyota has been recently selling me these for the diff/transmission/transfer plugs. I also used a washer like this on oil pans for a VW and BMW engines.

There is a folded metal washer. made from a soft metal (aluminum). I think this is what was originally spec'd for the diff/transmission/transfer plugs.

There is a black "fiber" washer. This is what I get for the oil pan drain plug. It appears to have a similar ID, but a larger OD (larger sealing area). This may be required because the oil pan may not have a machined sealing surface like the diff/transmission/transfer.

Anyway, are you using this fiber washer? If so, something larger/softer may work--such as the cork recommendation.

 

[cruiser88]

Like the technicians at Mercedes, Audi, VW, and Porshe sometimes do (depends on the dealerships, and whether they have contracted with PELA). Though I doubt Wally World Automotive used the same $7/Qt synthetics...or a quality extractor. I doubt they even trained the 13 year old illegals how to run the wet vac in the first place...

Your are right....wally world lost many motors over sucking

 

[justin85-60]

MTB, I have tried the fiber kind, didn't work. I have not tried the rubber o ring yet. A buddy of mine is trying to locate a piggy-back plug for me. Basically it is a little bit bigger than the stock plug. You put that in with thread sealer, essentially rethreading the pan and leave the plug in. There is another smaller plug inside the big one that you drain the oil through. This will be the last resort before changing pans. Will try the rubber first.

Thx about the avatar, I like yours too.

Also, I know I probably won't have a leak free tuck after this, but I am losing two quarts a week.