Real Time Help!- Knuckle cut an turn,confirm factory camber specs (1 Viewer)

[Slomo]

I am in the middle of an axle cut and turn and have the knuckles turned and the camber set to where it was before, but I want to triple confirm the factory camber specs since this is a one shot deal. I have searched but only come up with the million plus threads on castor. I got this print out from a buddy at the local Yota dealer that lists the specs:

It shows the camber as 1* and the acceptable range, but but not whether the 1* is + or -. I am assuming that because it does not have a - that it is positive 1* but I want to be absolutely sure before I fully burn them in.
Can anybody confirm this for me?

 

[Slomo]

Crap, my photo posting skills appear to be as good as my searching skills, bad.

Sheet shows: "Camber (left-right error) = 1* +/- 45' (1* +/-0.75*)____45'(0.75*) or less"

In quotation is exactly how it is displayed on the sheet.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Camber should be damn near 0* unless something is tweaked. It's not really adjustable with this design.

 

[Slomo]

I cut the knuckles and have turned them back to -5* to accommodate for the 6" lift and set the camber to 0*. Since they are not welded there is a slight amount I can adjust the camber via the press in fit of the knuckles into the axle housing before they are welded at the factory. I checked the factory specs to make sure I am setting it to what Mr. T determined was best which has resulted in my current dilemma. I can't understand why it would be at a +1* from the factory.

 

[Slomo]

Anyone?

 

[Brentbba]

Would the FSM cover this Mo? I've got the '94 at home.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

From FSM for the 96

 

[maxamillion2345]

Because they always give a loose tolerance range. 0* is what you should aim for.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

It does seem odd that the spec would be +1. I would have thought it would be slightly negative

 

[Slomo]

Thank you freshspecbluegt and Brent, I can't believe I did'nt think to check my FSM. That is the exact printout I was quoting above. The magic question is, is that 1* positive or negative.
I really thought it would be 0*. Maybe it is implied 0* and 1* either way is acceptable. I guess it comes down to the interpretation.

 

[wasnt me]

1* is assumed positive unless otherwise noted.

 

[freshspecbluegt]

It states +1 degree.

Not that it helps much but I checked the FSM for my 2005 4runner and my 01 celica and both have a neg camber spec specifically called out so I would believe this spec is +1.

 

[Slomo]

Ok, thanks all, that is what I was thinking. I just couldn't believe it. I am going with 0*, I just can't put a positive camber to it. I will update when it is done.

FWIW I rechecked all of my pre-cut measurements and all are exact but the camber is at +2*!

 

[Slomo]

I just had a thought, I wonder if they put +1* in it to account for flex in the wheel bearings and trunion bearings under load. IE when weight is on the tires not the axle housing in jack stands.

 

[wasnt me]

Bingo

 

[freshspecbluegt]

I just had a thought, I wonder if they put +1* in it to account for flex in the wheel bearings and trunion bearings under load. IE when weight is on the tires not the axle housing in jack stands.

Camber measurements should be made with the full vehicle weight on the wheels so this spec suggest +1 with the full weight of the vehicle already having take up any slack in the bearings, which is probably negligible. However, if you made your initial measurements with the axle on stands that might explain the 2* measurements you made before the cut.

 

[Slomo]

I think that is it. I just couldn't override Mr. T so I set it at 1* positive. I will post up once I get it together and have weight on the wheels.

 

[Brentbba]

I think that is it. I just couldn't override Mr. T so I set it at 1* positive. I will post up once I get it together and have weight on the wheels.

Test run to Santiago Peak?

 

[Slomo]

Sounds good, but I still have to make a new panhard and bracket, make new steering stops, and bump stops. Hoping to get her finished this weekend.

 

[Slomo]

Little follow up. I finally got her back together and on the ground. I am not taking it to an alignment shop because all they can do is set the tow and I already set that off the rotors, so I took some crude camber measurements with it on the ground using a straight edge on the rim. It is at 1* on the drivers side and 0.5* on the pass side. The 0.5* loss could have resulted from the welding process since I didn't have the axle housing on a jig. All in all, not bad, I am happy with the results.