Real time brake bleeding help 2007 100series

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Performing a brake bleed on a 2007. The front caliper bled perfectly, the back barely had any fluid come out. There was some junk clogging the bleeder screw but we got that cleaned out. Went to the next back one and same deal, very little fluid coming out.

Procedure:
1st try went around and pumped the brakes with little bottle half filled with fluid and a tube stuck in it.
2nd try: hooked up vacuum to a brake bleeder bottle from harbor freight and fluid is coming out but more air than fluid.

It isn’t coming out in a stream of fluid like it should. Picture is of vacuum bleeder tool.

Any ideas?

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okay I did a little research - DUH - and this is what I found so far

As far as bleeding goes, the Lexus tech tells me you just need to hold down the brake pedal w/ ignition "on" to bleed the rears (pump will pump fluid out), but for the fronts, you can either use the Lexus/Toyota tester (or ABS SST) or pump the old-fashioned way. This seems logical since when the master fails, the fail-safe mode is zero brake pressure the rear and reduced pressure up front. It suggests the rear is completely dependent on the hydraulic pump while the front isn't. I haven't tried this yet to confirm it.
 
Yup. that's it.
Saved me from a lengthy reply :)
Just jam a rod of some sort between seat and pedal, then go around and bleed. Watch fluid level.
 
Thanks!
 
From the same thread but post #22

I would flush the brake fluid since you've done most of the work already when you are bleeding. Very easy to do with an assistant.

- Key to "On". (engine need not be running)
- Assistant pumps a few times and then holds pedal down.
- Crack a bleeder (10mm box wrench) and fluid flows rapidly to the waiting jar.
- The fluid moves fast so keep the master above minimum.
- If you lose pressure close the bleeder and have the assistant pump/hold again.
- Right front, Left front, Right Rear, Left Rear.
- According to the FSM all four corners bleed the same.
- If you are going to remove a caliper to inspect or replace a pad crack the bleeder before removing the caliper as it can be much harder to turn them when the caliper is loose
- Bleeders are rated for 8ft/lbs torque. Don't over do it. Broken bleeders are common at repair shops.
- after bleeding use brake cleaner to spray fluid off the bleeder (this will make finding any leak later much easier)
- Take this chance to inspect the "rubber" portion of the brake lines
- Before filling the reservoir to "max" release pressure on the system.
- Key to "off" and pump pedal 40+ times until the stroke is lighter and longer.
- Then fill to "max" line.

Now to clear the ABS components you need to go find a road where you can activate the ABS a couple of times. this should mix the Fluid from the ABS channels with the rest of your fluid. This will not flush the old fluid totally out of the system but will ensure that the fluid in the critical ABS components is at least as good as the rest of the system.

The hard-core (not me) could then flush again to ensure the cleanest fluid possible
 
I was in this same boat last weekend. Thought it was a clogged bleeder screw, and made a mess in my driveway too. First vehicle of mine to need the key in to bleed anything
 
Yeah I’ve done 15 different vehicles and never had to put a key in!
 
As noted above , keep a good eye on your level it can cost you a ton if you get air in the system
 
No it isn’t the same as speed bleed but that is pretty cool! The HF bottle simply has a fitting for compressed air and an opening on the other side to create a vacuum in the bottle. Then there is a tube with a fitting that goes over your bleeder valve. Turn the compressor on, open the bleeder valve, and pull the trigger on the bottle to create the vacuum. It sucks the fluid right out of the brake. Super easy for one person to do. But seeing as the 100 has its own pump, all you have to do is turn on the key and press the brakes to get fluid pumping out of the brakes. That was incredibly easy once I looked it up. The bottle also comes with a brake fluid dispenser that sits in the brake reservoir so you never have to worry about it going empty. I think the brand is Pittsburgh
 

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