When I had my FJ45 driveshaft retubed, the balancing process made it so that the zerks were no longer aligned. Not really a problem, but something that can happen if things are redone. They made very clear marks so I'm assured of proper assembly.
Re-Tubing Driveshafts
- Thread starter Degnol
- Start date
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Mark W said:
I bet none of those shafts were made at Youngs!
They thought I was crazy when I brought up the concept of balanced driveshaft with no weights.
IDave said:
Zerks shouldn't be aligned. The zerk should be in a postion so that that part of the u-joint is in compression in forward gear. This makes the u-joint strongest.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
ranger said:
I had one customer who was absolutely convinced that Youngs had to be better than my backwoods guy. Young's did his front shaft 3 times and it still vibrated. I finally got him to slide under the rig with me and showed him the dial indicator as it showed him about .020 of runout!
Took it to my backwoods guy and made it straight. No more vibes.
Another time youngs quoted me separate prices for cutting the shaft, the new tube and welding it back together (quoted the welfding price "per end". I asked him how many guys declined to have them do any one of these parts of the operation. Then he quoted me a price to balance it. I said I dodn't want it balanced, I wanted it straight. He couldn't wrap his mind around that.
Needless to say they've never done any driveshafts for me.
Mark...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
FLYINGLOW said:
Sorry I am a little slow this morning - can you elaborate what you mean, or better yet, show me a pic?
Wait a minute - are you one of those whacky Canadians we met at CM'05? How are things up north, eh?
PabloCruise said:
Ya, its me. Things are great, just had a baby boy last Monday, so things are a little different around here. Cruiser is just sitting there (in my newly built shop
), with a beat to poo hard top and lots of parts to work with but no time.A u-joint has 2 areas of tension and 2 areas of compression. These switch in forward or reverse rotations. When you install a u-joint you don't want to have the zerk in an area of tension (forward rotation) because the hole for the zerk weakens the joint. I have not seen a cruiser u-joint break but have seen a D/S tube twist up after breaking a track bar and I have broke a pinion, but it is best to pay attention to the way u-joints are installed. Thats probably what your FSM drawing is showing at the bottom of the diagram. If your looking for a 'weak link' then you may want to install the joint the other way, but thats another story. Hope this makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #67
Well its fixed. I ordered 5* shims from Roger at 4Crawler.com. He shipped them out the very next day. I only welded them on the thick side as it has been my experience that anything I "permanently" welded had to come back off. The whole process took about an hour and a half.
Thanks to all for your help.
Ed
Thanks to all for your help.
Ed
Poser
I likey that driveshaft.
When using that baby the rear end would have to be inline with the shaft right? Is that ok for the pinion bearing? I would like to know what a shaft like that would cost for a 40. I've seen shafts like that for sale on trail gear for around 150 maybe. Are they any good? certainly cheaper than dealing with my local shop for a cv to be added.
I likey that driveshaft.
When using that baby the rear end would have to be inline with the shaft right? Is that ok for the pinion bearing? I would like to know what a shaft like that would cost for a 40. I've seen shafts like that for sale on trail gear for around 150 maybe. Are they any good? certainly cheaper than dealing with my local shop for a cv to be added.
