Razor One's Armor Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Razor One]

I'm a new owner of a stick welder and an 80 series. I'd like to design and build my bumpers myself, including a place for the winch.

I will post progress here, but for now I have a few questions, and maybe you can help me out.

My goal is to build a stout front winch bumper and rear bumper with a tire swing out strong enough to hold a 37" BFG MT.

Front bumper goal: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tubular-front-bumper-design-and-build.683675/

1. What size and thickness tubing (or pipe) will I have to use to be stout enough to lift part of the vehicle up by the bumper? (assuming it's designed and welded properly)

2. What thickness plate will I need to use for the winch?

3. How should I bolt the bumper to the frame?

Will update with pictures when they become available, and edit out questions as they get solved.

 

[Pin_Head]

1. It depends on the material you use. For the two tube design in the link, I would think that 1/8 inch HREW mild steel would suffice. If you use HSLA steel, like A36 or A945A or even DOM tube, then you could go with 25% thinner stock.

2. The thinnest I see for use with a 12K winch is 1/4 inch. Maybe less with HSLA.

3. You could use the 3 stock holes with captured nuts on the top and bottom of the frame horns or you could add some custom fasteners.

 

[Razor One]

1. It depends on the material you use. For the two tube design in the link, I would think that 1/8 inch HREW mild steel would suffice. If you use HSLA steel, like A36 or A945A or even DOM tube, then you could go with 25% thinner stock.

2. The thinnest I see for use with a 12K winch is 1/4 inch. Maybe less with HSLA.

3. You could use the 3 stock holes with captured nuts on the top and bottom of the frame horns or you could add some custom fasteners.

I will most likely be using only mild steel for cost and availability. However, when I actually go metal shopping if it turns out to be worth the extra cost, then it's a possibility. When you say 1/8 inch tube, is that measurement of thickness? Would that be the same as .120 wall, or would it actually be considered .125 wall?

For the tubing, would I be able to use mild steel with a wall thickness of .120 that hasn't been drawn over mandrel? If so, what outside diameter should be used?

1. On slee's website, the shortbus bumper uses 3/8" plate for the frame mounts, and 3/16" plate for the bumper. The link I posted, used those same thicknesses, too, but also added that the winch plate was 3/8". I think I've found my thicknesses for the winch plate and frame mounts.

2. Isn't a 12K overkill? My research concluded that I need to get a winch rated to 1.5 times the vehicle weight. At ~4500 (off the top of my head) times 1.5 would put you at a Warn M8000 or something?

3. Would the 3 stock holes be enough, or would I need to make a few of my own?

Thanks!

 

[Pin_Head]

No need to reinvent the wheel, so just go with what the major bumper makers use.

80 series weight about 5,200 lbs bone stock, so a 12K winch isn't over kill. They are pretty much the same form factor as 8K winches and don't cost much more.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I used 3/16" thick for my bumper. As far as tube diameter, that is what you like the look of.
use existing holes on the frame for mounting, You want to go along far enough inside the inner frame
to support the bumper. Consider the side load on the frame as well when you are maxing out the
pulling power of the winch. I used 1/2" thick plate for the mounting plates that ran into the frame.
I used 5/16 Gr 8 hardware for mounting, with shroeder(spelling?) nuts so they stay tight.
Look at 4+products for ideas, and attachment.

 

[Razor One]

It's not letting me edit my original post, but here's my progress, so far. Got a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" mild steel plate for free, and enough 3/8" plate to make some stout mount hardware. So far, I've planned to use all existing factory holes. Curious on what exactly is needed to mount a winch. My winch plate is going to be 3/8" thick plate.

5 existing anchor points per frame rail. I'm thinking this will be enough.

How does this look for a winch plate?

 

[Pin_Head]

That looks like it will work. Keep in mind, it doesn't make much sense to have your bumper and winch plate be a whole lot stronger than the frame it will be mounted to. It is just a waste of money and weight.

 

[Razor One]

That looks like it will work. Keep in mind, it doesn't make much sense to have your bumper and winch plate be a whole lot stronger than the frame it will be mounted to. It is just a waste of money and weight.

Noted. Should I make the mounting hardware out of 1/4" then, too?

 

[jynx]

One other thing to keep on mind is the size of the winch you are planning to use. Just don't want you to mount it too far under the front facia to easily install, use and maintain your winch of choice.

As far as the 1/4" vs 3/8" I would use the 3/8" if you have it. Might be overkill, but depending on how you plan to tie everything to the actual frame, the extra beef will help resist the stresses placed on the mount and transfered to said frame rails when you have the winch loaded on a heavy pull. Just my $0.02

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I run 1/4" on winches up to 10K and 3/8" on anything bigger than that. If you can spare 10$.. go to Walmart and get some foamboard, its more rigid and cuts much better than cardboard.. boards are 24" x 36" and are about 3 or 4$ a piece.. They are in the office /school supply section.

Straight edge and razor knife = nice template, IMO

GL

J

 

[Razor One]

I've got some time to kill tomorrow afternoon, so I'll check out the foam board idea while I'm at it. I'll use 3/8" on high stress areas, and 1/4" everywhere else. I even have a little bit of scrap 1/2" for tow points. I'd like to mount fog lights inside the bumper, too, but I haven't done any research on them so I don't know what size hole to cut, or where to mount tabs, yet.

 

[Razor One]

Started my first attempt at a foam board replica. It looks like s***, so if you have any suggestions please let me know. Because I'll be making it mostly out of plate instead of my original tube design, I'd like it to look more like this, just not so heavy if possible.

And I know this is a 4runner, but I like this style as well.

Here's what I have so far: I took some measurements and a winch is going to be a tight fit, but it's probably do-able.

I'm aware that it's missing some pieces. I haven't cut them because I'm still tossing ideas around. Also, ignore the duct tape.

How's this for an approach angle? These are 31's, so when the tread wears out on these and I go 35's, the angle will be more aggressive.

I'm done working on it for now. It's not playing out how I see it in my mind and it's frustrating.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

One-Off design is time consuming. I have cut up 20 pieces of board for one build before... Fabrication is a "living" creature and changes CONSTANTLY unfortunately (or it does for me). I do it the exact same way you are, mark the board, lay down the straight edge, cut.. then duct tape it together.

Just take your time and walk away occasionally. I think it is coming along pretty good.

J

 

[Razor One]

Took another crack at it today. I decided to toss the duct tape and use hot glue. The pack of glue actually cost more than the gun, but it works much better than I was expecting. Now, I can actually slide the prototype off the frame rails and work on it off the vehicle if I need to.

It's kind of hard for me to explain, but I'll be working on it all day today, so stay tuned. I'm going to cover the orange blinkers, and either put LEDs in, or cut a hole for them to shine through, covered with a grill type material like expanded metal. I'm going for the most aggressive approach angle possible on the sides.

I guess I just needed to know when to walk away and let my dreams do the work.

Thanks for the helpful posts.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Something like this? Seems like a lot of work a head of you and a lot of weight!

J

 

[Razor One]

Wow. That's actually pretty close to what I had in mind. I figured it'd weigh a ton, so I was thinking about doing some lightening holes, but again, that's the beauty of foam board and hot glue.... It doesn't require a sawzall. What would you do different?

Here's my next piece.

 

[Razor One]

Both sides done.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

IMO if your determined to keep the light cover portion... at least be consistent with the lines.. follow the bottom of the grill....

In the end its your bumper and design.. If you like it... go with it..

J

 

[Razor One]

The light cover partially obstructs the view of the headlight beams; I have to scrap the side pieces and try again. That's fine, I guess. I'm glad I found it now rather than when I already started striking arcs.

Edit: This time, I'm going to try it without covering the blinkers and see what it looks like. Off to get some more foam board!

 

[Razor One]

I think I finished the prototype, in between practicing my stick welds. I moved everything an inch forward to give the winch more room.

Not sure if I should be worried about my flares or not.

I'm also not sure where to add supports behind the bumper to insure that it maintains structural integrity.